One of the most charming destinations in the whole provencethe city of Aix-en-Provence has around 140 thousand inhabitants and manages to maintain the feeling of interior with touches of elegance that only this south of france region can offer.
Founded in 122 BC, the city conserves medieval buildings, which transport visitors directly to a journey into the past. Bistros, cafes, parks, French gardens and also the hustle of the regional scene at the fairs and main avenues are around the historic points.
It is a land of small producers and meticulous details, which make this place one of the most special in all of France and the world. But what are the must-see points Aix-en-Provence without falling completely into clichés?
Who helps answer the question is Anaté Mergera French-Brazilian businesswoman who runs a specialized travel agency in the south of France and who has lived in Aix for almost 20 years.
Next, the professional shares with the CNN Travel & Gastronomy what to do and even where to eat in the fascinating city of Provence:
Breakfast at Cours Mirabeau
The Cours Mirabeau is the main avenue of the city and where we find a series of bars and restaurants, in addition to being the place where one of the biggest fairs of Aix-en-Provence takes place.
The ideal is to take a morning to have breakfast here, see the city wake up and enjoy this moment of preparation for the fair. It’s a nice experience as we meet the local French and see them sitting reading newspapers next to a cup of coffee.
It’s definitely an interesting time to witness city life and how it slowly wakes up.
Pavillon de Vendome
The Pavillon de Vendôme is a mansion, almost like a mini-palace, dating from the 17th century. Its exterior is surrounded by gardens “à la française”, which were designed.
This mansion has a curious history: it was built by the Duke of Vendôme to hide a relationship he had with a young woman he wanted to marry.
He was a widower and the king at the time did not authorize his second marriage. To try to maintain the relationship, the Duke built the mansion.
Today, it is used as a park, where families spend pleasant moments. The interior also houses historical pieces, as if it were a museum.
13 Rue de la Molle, 13100 Aix-en-Provence, France
Atelier of Cézanne and Carrieres of Bibémus
They are two very important places in the city that are part of the Cézanne circuit, a French painter who was born and died in Aix-en-Provence.
Visiting Bibémus is a little more complicated compared to the atelier, as it is not a place open to the general public, and requires a certain amount of preparation.
It was in this old quarry that Cézanne rented a cabin – which still exists today – and began to approach Sainte Victoire Mountain, the subject of several of his paintings.
To visit it, it is necessary to enter the official page and follow the instructions on offers of guides, who must be accompanied by visitors.
The atelier can be done on foot, as it is about 10 minutes from the city center. Those who want can choose to arrive by electric bus or taxi.
The place, surrounded by a lot of green, is a house built by Cézanne with the aim of being his studio, and where light and silence predominated. It is an interesting visit because the artist’s original objects have also been preserved.
The individual visit takes about half an hour and costs €6.50; Guided tours also take place in the space and cost €9.50. The studio also has a small shop and hosts some temporary exhibitions throughout the year.
Carriers of Bibémus: 3080 Chem. de Bibémus, 13100 Aix-en-Provence, France / Atelier: 9 Av. Paul Cézanne, 13100 Aix-en-Provence, France
Musee Granet and Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs
Several paintings by Cézanne are in Aix in the Musee Granet, a central and easily accessible museum. It is geared towards the fine arts, with collections from the 15th and 16th century onwards, as well as paintings by great names in the arts, such as Picasso, Monet and Mondrian.
For those who like modern art, the best thing to do is visit the Chapelle des Penitents Blancs, a former 17th century chapel that has undergone several renovations and several lifetimes. It was sold during the Revolution and bought back by the city, becoming an exhibition site annexed to the Musée Granet.
It is a highly recommended place for those who love the arts and want to see names like Picasso and Van Gogh. A full ticket to visit the museum as a whole costs €6.
Place Saint Jean de Malte, 13100 Aix-en-Provence, France
Hotel de Caumont
Contrary to what the name might suggest, the Hotel de Caumont it is not a hotel, but an art center. It is an 18th century mansion that is now fully restored and is part of the city’s heritage.
The place has a restaurant, shop, temporary exhibitions and some rooms, such as the music room and the room of the Marquise Pauline de Caumont, restored as in ancient times, with original paintings and objects. The ticket to visit the interior costs around €14.50.
The restaurant has very delicious sweets and having afternoon tea here is a good pastime. I recommend the house specialty, the calisson pie, the typical sweet from Aix-en-Provence.
3 Rue Joseph Cabassol, 13100 Aix-en-Provence, France
the city fairs
The city fairs are wonderful, they are spread over several places and take place on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. The main ones are on Cours Mirabeau and Place Richelme.
It’s a tour that I highly recommend because, in addition to getting to know vegetables and fruits that you don’t see very often in Brazil, you can try a little bit of everything. There are also cheeses, candied fruits, jellies, pâtés, olives, among many other items.
I emphasize that they are all made by local producers, that is, by small producers, so buying directly from their stalls is giving your business extra strength. It is worth remembering that the fairs always take place in the morning.
Cathedrale du Saint-Sauveur
It is the oldest building in the city. There are paintings from the 10th to the 19th centuries and historical canvases depicting kings, queens and other royals.
Interestingly, the cathedral carries different architectural styles and influences, and several parts were built at different times.
A Provencal Roman portal is placed on a wall from the high Middle Ages, there is a 6th century baptistery and the interior aisles refer to the Roman Provencal, Gothic and Baroque styles.
34 Pl. des Martyrs de la Resistance, 13100 Aix-en-Provence, France
Try the calisson of Aix-en-Provence
The calisson is the typical sweet from Aix, made with a layer of wafer and filling with almonds and candied fruits (mainly melon), which also has a layer of sugar that does not exceed six millimeters.
Around the city we can find the candy in several stores, some are more traditional than others, such as Béchard.
Others even offer tastings and, outside the city, 10 minutes from the center, it is still possible to visit a calisson factory and museum, the Fabrique du Roy René and the Musée du Calisson.
Place des Cardeurs restaurants
Despite the old appearance, surrounded by mansions, the square was created in 1963 after the city hall decided to demolish unhealthy houses. It is an interesting place with several large houses in the surroundings, where many restaurants and bistros are also concentrated.
From the beginning to the end of the square there are restaurants and terraces with tables. The square is next to the city hall building, that is, it is very central.
Although it doesn’t look like it, it’s quite frequented by those who live here and by city hall employees as well. That is, it is not merely a tourist spot.
There are a variety of restaurants, from French, Italian and other cuisines, as well as outdoor seating. The place is also very lively.
Béchard and Weibel sweets
I say they are two candy stores where we leave happy. THE Béchard it is the oldest in the city, opened in 1870. It is an emblematic place where calisson is made, as well as sensational sweets, breads and brioches. It is located on Cours Mirabeau, that is, in a very central location.
already the Weibel has space to sit, have tea, enjoy a chocolate and other sweets to eat praying. The difference lies mainly in the variety of sweets and the pleasant space to sit and take a break.
Maison Béchard: 12 Cr Mirabeau, 13100 Aix-en-Provence, France / Maison Weibel: 2 Rue Chabrier, 13100 Aix-en-Provence, France
About Anaté Merger
Expert from the south of France, Anaté Merger command a travel agency focused on Provence. A resident of Aix-en-Provence since 2004, Anaté worked as a journalist between 1987 and 2004. In addition to seven published novels, she is also the author of the guide “O essential da Provence” and the almanac “Primavera”, the first book in the 4xProvence collection. which shows the region according to the seasons.
Source: CNN Brasil
