“I am a young producer in a very ancient land, a winemaker who likes to taste, eat and feel part of the Tuscan landscape, Chianti in particular”. Gordon Matthew Thomas Sumner, aka Sting, can serenely afford to use Chianti instead of Chiantishire as many of his compatriots do: he arrived 25 years ago in Figline Valdarno, bought the Palagio, a sixteenth-century residence surrounded by 350 hectares of woods, gardens, olive groves and vineyards. Beyond a true passion for this territory, it is a natural testimonial for a place that remains the heart of Tuscany (even if many who live in the region will disagree …) and expresses a great food and wine story, set in the green of the hills. The essence of which is represented by bread and wine, even if the thought can make you smile.
Bread and wine, because on the second front the Chianti DOCG – of many large wineries – serenely covers the need, while on the first one understands its importance in a way greater than expected. The “stale” bread is the basis of some typical dishes such as pappa al pomodoro (which includes peeled tomatoes, garlic, basil and oil), ribollita (which combines savoy cabbage, black cabbage, beans and other seasonal vegetables with bread, the name means “boiled twice”) and panzanella (crumbled, it is combined with red onion, tomato, cucumber and basil, then seasoned with oil, vinegar and salt). But the traditional bread in Chianti – prepared in large loaves and strictly unsalted – it becomes the basis for croutons, starting with the black ones with liver sauce or the best way to savorDOP extra virgin olive oil from Chianti Classico: color from deep green to green with golden hues, fruity aroma of medium intensity, decidedly spicy flavor, with a bitter aftertaste of artichoke and thistle.
You can go further with the fettunta: a slice of stale bread, toasted and flavored with the aforementioned extra virgin olive oil, salt, pepper and garlic. And, again, the bread gives emotions with the series of local cured meats: one immediately thinks of the finocchiona, but just enter the Antica Macelleria Falorni in Greve in Chianti and discover that there are about ten typical salamis (crazy), a thousand sausages and even on the Tuscan PDO ham there are notable nuances. And while we are at the pecorino, a symbol of the whole of Tuscany, but which here is also matured with aromatic herbs or even in Chianti, the so-called Pecorino Briaco. The Chianti food experience must also include a tasty first course (pici with various meat sauce and ravioli) and for carnivores his majesty the steak, as Fiorentina is called in these lands and exalted by the butcher par excellence, Cecchini Dario. Absolutely cooked on the grill, with two beans all’uccelletto. When it’s time for game, another local specialty, which lends itself more to a Chianti Riserva.
The choice of the venue remains: the area does not lack starry, indeed. There are six: the most recent is Poggio Rosso in Borgo San Felice, which is part of the galaxy of Enrico Bartolini. The others in Castelnuovo Berardenga (The Donkey and the Workshop of 30); The Tower in Tavarnelle; the Osteria di Passignano (where the talent Matteo Lorenzini has returned) in Badia di Passignano; Pievano in Gaiole in Chianti. Uncommon places, valid menus with many ideas. However, our selection is based on those places where dinner is finished with a homemade dessert and two nooks that make you happy, convincing once more that the Chiantishire (or Chianti, even better) has an eternal charm.
-
1/10La Gramola – Tavarnelle Val di Pesa
Traditional Osteria del Chianti, led by a highly experienced couple. The menu changes almost every day and largely aims to enhance the raw materials of the area such as aglione – a typical variety of garlic – and meats. Well stocked cellar.
Where is it: La Gramola, Tavarnelle Val di Pesa
-
2/10Carlino d’Oro – Gaiole in Chianti
Hand-pulled pasta and lots of meat in the Fabbri family’s trattoria-inn, surrounded by vineyards. Here the dishes of the day go hand in hand with those present all year round on the menu. Ribollita – an ancient dish – is considered one of the best in Tuscany.
Where is it: Carlino d’Oro, Gaiole in Chianti, tel. 0577.747136
-
3/10Eating Eating – Greve in Chianti
Salvatore Toscano – nomen omen – is one of the most famous chef-patrons of Chianti. Drive one of the best trattorias in the area, overlooking the large square of the village. Many small producers for its delicious menu, starting with cured meats. And a steak to applause.
Where is it: Eating Eating, Greve in Chianti
-
4/10Cantinetta del Nonno – San Casciano Val di Pesa
Delicious penne with homemade meat sauce (in the photo), roast rabbit, Cinta Senese steak: these are the unmissable dishes of this old-fashioned trattoria, which in the summer offers the opportunity to eat outdoors. Desserts of the house, many wines by the glass.
Where is it: Cantinetta del Nonno, San Casciano Val di Pesa
-
5/10Step by step – Castellina in Chianti
In the Fizzano estate, a well-kept restaurant that uses its three own gardens and follows a line of revisited Tuscan and Italian dishes, without being afraid of contamination with the world. Three tasting menus and a menu of never banal dishes.
Where is it: Step by step, Castellina in Chianti
-
6/10Officina della Bistecca – Panzano in Chianti
Iconic place for carnivores, with the plus of the presence of the histrionic Dario Cecchini, never so fit. No paper, the choice is limited to two menus (plus a vegetarian aid, at 30 euros): that of the Butcher at 30 euros and the Solociccia at 50 euros. It feels great.
Where is it: Bistecca Workshop, Panzano in Chianti
-
7/10From Bule – San Casciano Val di Pesa
Bule is the nickname of the landlord who, together with his wife, manages this country restaurant very well where tradition and territory represent the guiding star. The best on the menu: the unmissable peposo, ravioli with meat sauce, anchovy braciole.
Where is it: From Bule, San Casciano Val di Pesa
-
8/10Le Panzanelle – Radda in Chianti
Pasta, meats, cheeses; but also excellent vegetables: a cult place for visitors to the Chiantishire, also for the very competitive prices and exquisite hospitality. Discover the spaghetti di pesticcia, wild boar with olives (in the photo) and the Vin Santo ice cream.
Where is it: Le Panzanelle, Radda in Chianti
-
9/10Osteria 1126 – Poggibonsi
“We select local products to create a contemporary cuisine that reflects tradition with lightness”: is the manifesto of the restaurant that has a suggestive terrace. And among the first gluttons, lots of well-prepared meat and high-quality desserts, in fact, it is respected.
Where is it: Osteria 1126, Poggibonsi
-
10/10Vagliagli Tavern – Castelnuovo Berardenga
Between cooking and brazier, absolute seasonality, respect for the raw material with the meats to reign. Andrea Nasti’s restaurant does not stop at classicism – however perfect – and finds the key to rewriting the recipes of the territory. And even the desserts (pictured) surprise the guest.
Where is it: Viagliali tavern, Castelnuovo Berardenga
Source: Vanity Fair
