Address that marked epoch in the Rio de Janeiro, both for the excellence of the cuisine and for hosting a constellation of politicians, artists, socialites and businessmen, the Antiquarius closed its headquarters in Leblon in 2018 (today it exists only as a dark kitchen), but its legacy lives on in the city.
Part of the sharp team that worked there was orphaned with the end of the activities and then decided to undertake with the help of partner-investors. Since the beginning of the pandemic, at least three addresses have emerged in Rio commanded by different former employees of the mythical temple of Portuguese gastronomy — founded in 1977 by Carlos Perico, who died in 2016.
Check out what they are below:
Golden Dudes
Hidden on the first floor of an apart hotel in Ipanema, the restaurant opened in 2020 has among its partners the manager Antônio Menezes, Leitão, and the sommelier André Vasconcelos — who worked at Antiquarius, respectively, for 20 years and 8 years.
To compose the brigade, the duo gathered 27 former employees of the extinct Leblon address. The name (“the golden boys” in free translation), by the way, is a reference to the nickname that the late Carlos Perico gave to the Antiquarius team.
One of the good starters at Gajos, the quintino chicken shrimp (R$ 85 a portion), homage to the idol Zico, brings the crustaceans at a great cooking point bathed in olive oil, garlic, paprika and chilli pepper.
It is also worth trying the cod bowl à moda das madres (R$85), a kind of creamier souffle. For the main dishes, choose between the unmissable and hearty duck rice (R$128) and one of the sixteen recipes with cod. Dessert to share that pump of likes on Instagram, the snowy eggs (R$ 41) are served with crème anglaise and caramel strands, in an attractive presentation.
Rua Prudente de Morais, 1008, Ipanema, tel.: 3449-1546/1483.
Between friends
Headquartered in Botafogo and a branch opened in July in Barra da Tijuca, it is another Portuguese address of the new generation that carries the Antiquarius DNA. Among its owners are the maîtres Uedson Dias and Luciano Fernandes, who worked there for over 30 years.
One of the best starters is the crab cake au gratin (R$40), which is even more appetizing with the mild house pepper. Among the main dishes, the cod in cream (R$95) with sautéed potatoes and onions, and the shrimp and monkfish rice (R$80), cooked in fish broth, rich in flavor and with a touch of coriander just right.
Finally, there are classics of Portuguese confectionery, such as siricaia. As a nice measure, the house does not charge a corkage for wine (only from the second bottle onwards, you pay R$50).
Rua Paulo Barreto, 64-A, Botafogo, tel.: (21) 3435-9376/90.
Casa Shopping, Bloco N, Barra da Tijuca, tel.: (21) 3030-7418/19.
Bar Well
Opened in August on the ground floor of the LSH by Own hotel, in Barra da Tijuca, the house is in charge of the kitchen by Clóvis Florêncio, who worked at Antiquarius for 37 years. Facing the waterfront, the popular and wide veranda is popular with the public when it comes to snacks such as codfish balls (R$38), crab shell (R$38) and alheira with asparagus, fried egg, parmesan and truffle butter (R$55).
One of the best dishes with cod, the à lagareira (R$ 125) has the loin breaded and then baked with olive oil, garlic, onions, potatoes, broccoli and olives. During his visit, he surprised us with an un-Portuguese recipe: prawns wrapped in a great curry sauce (R$135) with almond rice.
Rua Professor Coutinho Fróis, 10, Barra da Tijuca, tel.: (21) 3798-2852.
A journalist from São Paulo who travels weekly between São Paulo and Rio, he has written about gastronomy for major vehicles, such as Veja São Paulo, O Estado de S. Paulo and Época São Paulo. In the last ten years, he has visited eighteen countries in search of good places to eat, drink, party and exercise bohemia. He also shares his findings on the Taste and Fly website and Instagram.
Reference: CNN Brasil
