One Mexican, one Brazilian. Three passions in common: cuisine, Mexican flavors and Brazilian ingredients. Who has already been to Metzi, in São Paulo you realize that this triad is pulsating in every dish, in every detail of the decoration and in every speech of the chefs and owners of the house, Luana Sabino and Eduardo Ortiz .
Metzi means “Goddess of the Moon” in Mexico, which interferes with the vegetation and the seas, precisely the ingredients that dominate the restaurant’s menu: vegetables and seafood, such as the public’s favorites, octopus tostada and fish with matcha salsa, which have been among the most requested since opening day.
With its recently completed four years, reservations filled daily and countless awards, such as the Best of São Paulo from Jornal Folha de S. Paulo, Best restaurants in Brazil from Exame magazine, being in the Michelin Guide 2024 nominations, in addition to winning the 18th position in the “Oscar of Gastronomy”, Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023, those who see the full house cannot imagine that behind this success there is a daily battle: showing the public that Mexican cuisine goes beyond – much beyond – guacamole and chilli.
The house opened in the middle of the pandemic that stopped the world in 2020, which was quite a challenge. But showing that they were not a Tex-Mex restaurant – a style of Spanish and Mexican menu created by Tejanos when Texas was still part of Mexico, and which was spread in the United States and imported into Brazil as “Mexican food” – was a second battle which was also not in the script.
Eduardo says that the pandemic came as a surprise, when they had just signed the rental contract for the location and were going to start renovations, but they didn’t think about giving up. “The idea was basically born due to the deficiency and lack that Luana felt here in Brazil in relation to the Mexican food she saw in New York, for example (the city where the duo met). We knew there was room for our food. But there are still many myths and ‘fears’ about Mexican cuisine, peppers and prejudice against the use of coriander, for example. Every day we need to demystify many things.”
Luana adds that, in the beginning, they didn’t think much about the challenges. “We believed in the project and we did it. We opened without much planning. It was food that we liked, that we always made with great care, but, over time, we realized that we would have to re-educate the Brazilian palate about Mexican food, as it was closely linked to Tex-Mex. What was available in the city were Tex-Mex restaurants… and many people thought they would find that here.”
This episode hasn’t happened in a long time. The public who frequents the house already knows what awaits them, but the chef says with the twinkle in her eyes of someone who has a mission in life: “Whether we like it or not, we know that we work for a bubble. We serve many international tourists and an audience that has already had the opportunity to travel and discover Mexico, for example. That’s why we opened the taqueria Atzi (more informal house of the duo of partners, opened in 2023, focused on authentic tacos), to try to reach a different type of audience. We aim to teach more and more people what Mexican food really is. We want more and more people to understand, respect and value Mexican food.”
Prize pressure and next steps
Do they feel pressure for being the only Mexican house in Brazil on so many important lists? Luana, who appeared on the Forbes Under 30 list in 2022, says: “It is always very valid to have this type of recognition, as well as that of the 50 Best, Michelin and any and all awards. It shows that we are on the right path, it is important for the team. It is a stimulus for us to understand that we always have to improve, since we are on such renowned lists; We need to do our best to deserve to be in these awards. Instead of pressure, it’s encouraging us to be better and better.”
Edu, as he is affectionately called by his friends, when asked about his next steps, says: “Fostering our Mexican roots, being proud of where we come from and valuing Brazilian ingredients, which is where we are. We are always looking for improvements, but we don’t have a ‘next step’. Every day we have a step. We have a new wine list created by sommelières Daniela Bravin and Cassia Campos, this year we changed the bar in the house, so we are constantly taking new steps towards improvements. In addition, of course, to always cooking in the right way.rich’ and delicious.”
Metzi: Rua João Moura, 861, Pinheiros – São Paulo – SP / WhatsApp: (11) 98045-5022 / Opening hours: Tuesday and Wednesday, from 7pm to 10:30pm; Thursday and Friday, from 7pm to 11pm; Saturday, from 12:30 pm to 3:00 pm and from 7:00 pm to 11:00 pm; and Sunday, from 1pm to 5pm.
SP: Restaurant wins Latin America’s 50 Best hospitality award
The post 4 years of Metzi in Brazil and the challenges of revealing authentic Mexican cuisine appeared first on CNN Brasil V&G.
Source: CNN Brasil
Johanna Foster is an expert opinion writer with over 7 years of experience. She has a reputation for delivering insightful and thought-provoking articles on a variety of subjects. Her work can be found on some of the top online news websites, and she is currently lending her voice to the world stock market.