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A gastronomic tour through the Barra Funda neighborhood in São Paulo

Impossible to talk about the neighborhood of Deep bar and not to remember the book “Brás, Bexiga e Barra Funda”, by António de Alcântara Machado, written in 1927. It was he who immortalized the “Italians” Gaetaninho, Carmela and so many other characters, in tales about the daily life of immigrants who arrived to the country and spread throughout the region, thus contributing to the creation of the rich culture of São Paulo.

Before being called Barra Funda, the neighborhood was part of a farm belonging to the Barão de Iguape, which was later divided into several farms. Its development came after the inauguration of the train station, used to transport and store coffee. The neighborhood also had an intense industrial vocation.

But times have changed and today we see a new scenario, one of them is recent and good gastronomic effervescence in the region.

Next, we select 8 gastronomic addresses that deserve to be in your road map in Barra Funda.

A Baianeira

It’s been seven years since Manual Ferraz takes elements of Bahia and Minas cuisine to your restaurant A Baianeira, located in a small but very pleasant townhouse in Barra Funda. The place serves breakfast and lunch, and also functions as a grocery store, with a wide variety of products such as dulce de leche, bottled butter, flour and jams. In 2019, Baianeira won a second unit, this time at MASP, on Avenida Paulista.

The cheese bread, one of the house’s flagships since the opening, can come with pot meat and free-range eggs. For breakfast there are a variety of sandwiches, as well as yogurt with fruit and granola. For lunch, you can choose one of the dishes of the day and/or very Brazilian options such as minced beef, fish moqueca or chicken.

R. Dona Elisa, 117 – Barra Funda, São Paulo – SP / Tel.: (11) 2538-0844 / Opening hours: Tuesday to Saturday, 9 am to 4 pm

Bocadas’s Pizza

For those who want to find a restaurant that offers a good pizza marinara, the one baked only with tomato and garlic sauce, here’s the tip: Bocada’s is approved with flying colors – and with great tomato sauce, by the way.

The house serves pizzas with natural fermentation dough and has classic flavors such as margarita (their one is made with buffalo mozzarella), and other more original ones such as kale, jiló and cheese Taleggio cheese.

The lounge is quite informal, in keeping with the proposal of the house, but cozy at the same time. For those interested, there is the nostalgic rotation system. They also sell chicken on Sundays, only for lunch.

Dr. Ribeiro de Almeida, 167 – Barra Funda, São Paulo – SP / Tel.: (11) 95177-3061 / Hours of Operation: Tuesday to Sunday, from 7:00 pm to 11:00 pm. Also open on Sunday at lunchtime

The Lady and the Vagabonds Bar

This barbeque pub, as they claim, brings good options straight from the grill, such as smoked ribs, sausages, meat or even vegetables. Among the other options on the menu, several types of sandwiches, in addition to Poroto Paulistano, beans with roasted and shredded meat, tomatoes and onions from the grill.

R. Souza Lima, 43 – Barra Funda, São Paulo – SP / Tel.: (11) 99674-4004 / Hours of Operation: Thursday, Friday and Monday, from 6 pm / Saturday, from 3 pm / Sunday, from 2 pm

In the Bread Queue / A Fialka

In the property where the late Scar São Paulo used to work, two newly opened businesses coexist: in Fila do Pão, one artisan bakery of natural fermentation, and Fialka, a floral arrangement and bouquet shop.

The bakery has several options of bread, all prepared with organic flour, such as house bread, garlic bread with cheese, oil and herbs, cheese bread, as well as cakes and cookies. At the emporium, there are breads, cheeses, coffees and other goodies to take home. At Fialka, in addition to buying flower arrangements, customers can choose between bottled drinks, such as White Negroni, and good wines.

R. Margarida, 30 – Barra Funda, São Paulo – SP / Tel.: (11) 91096-5004 / Hours of Operation: Tuesday to Friday, 9 am to 6 pm, and Saturday, 9 am to 4 pm

Insects

Komah is one of the great treasures of the region – no wonder, it’s crowded. Paulo Shin he did what few can do: he opened his restaurant at a far from obvious address, which ended up becoming a mandatory destination for anyone passing through the neighborhood.

The menu brings reinterpretations of classic dishes from korean cuisine, inspired by family recipes, always with a modern touch. This is done masterfully in the kimchi bokumbap (rice with kimchi – fermented chard), served with a traditional French omelet. It is also difficult not to mention the japchae (thin sweet potato noodles, with honey and roasted vegetables), and the doloso bibimbap, (rice, vegetables, garden leaves, yolk and beef jerkey). The house also has a bar with signature drinks, as well as snacks.

Canon Vicente Miguel Marino, 378 – Barra Funda / Tel.: (11) 3392-7072 / Hours of Operation: Monday to Friday, from 12:00 pm to 3:00 pm and from 6:30 pm to 11:30 pm, Saturday, from 12:00 pm to 4:00 pm and from 7:00 pm to 11:30 pm

Mix

Or Bolivian chef Checho gonzalez, in front of the popular Comedoria Gonzales in the Pinheiros Market, runs this house located in a pleasant shed, with an open kitchen and tables that, until the pandemic came, were all shared. The menu has an authorial character and influence Latin American, in addition to a slight taste for fish and seafood, but not limited to them.

We can say that it is mandatory to order the heart of squid (chicken and squid heart skewers, with peanut cream) and the breaded pig, where the fish is accompanied by tartar sauce and chips. For the main dishes, the fish of the day and shrimp rice, preferably to share. To drink, La Chicha del Checho, house kombucha, as well as good wine options.

R. Souza Lima, 305 – Barra Funda, São Paulo – SP / Tel.: (11) 3661-1149 / Hours of Operation: Tuesday to Thursday 11am to 3pm, Friday 11am to 4pm, Saturday 11am to 5pm, and Sunday 10am to 5pm (breakfast and lunch)

Laskarina Bouboulina

Laskarina Bouboulina was a Greek naval commander and had a relevant participation in the War of Independence in 1821. As its name suggests, this tavern has elements of the sea in its dishes, or better said, pirate food – although it is not restricted to that alone .

O restô-bar, installed in a nice corner house under a small building, has a wood oven right at the entrance. To start with, there’s a good marinade and gizzards, a super-order on the menu. In addition, there is always the weekend special, which can range from lamb, fish and seafood. Don’t forget the drinks, they are always delicious.

R. Souza Lima, 67 – Barra Funda, São Paulo – SP / There is no telephone / Hours of Operation: Thursday and Friday from 7 pm to 11 pm, Saturday from 1 pm to 11 pm, and Sunday from 1 pm to 5 pm

I bring Bar

Of the good options for flirtatious bars in the city, Trago offers everything that lovers of good drink normally want: a great counter and intimate tables and sofas.

There are several options for signature cocktails, such as Sakura, made with bourbon infused with maraschino cherries, Rosso vermouth, Amaretto and Angostura. Among the reinterpretations, the Olive Martini proposes a variation of the Dry Martini. In the classics, Red Snapper is a variation of Bloody Mary, but with gin instead of vodka. For a snack, always order the bolovo. But if you’re hungry, the pastrami sandwich is a good choice.

R. Souza Lima, 174 – Barra Funda, São Paulo – SP / No telephone / Opening hours: Wednesday to Friday, from 6 pm to midnight, Saturday from 2 pm to midnight, and Sunday, from 2 pm to 10 pm

* The article had the collaboration of Dany Simon, a consultant and curator for food and beverage brands passionate about gastronomy. On his Instagram profile, @danythesimon tells all his experiences


Reference: CNN Brasil

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