As a border Milan has become one of the best pizzerias in the world (and now it is always full)

Border Milan is undoubtedly the pizzeria of the moment. Finding a place, despite the different shifts and the streamlined service, is practically impossible, especially on weekends. Nevertheless, of a simple pizzeria it is. Or maybe not.

From the Milan border, things change, and the pizza becomes a gastronomic experience (No, it is not cutting, even if that is one of this year’s trends). A substantial, enjoyable, pleasant gastronomic experience of pizza, whether you believe it or not. It is necessary to specify it, given the many who consider pizza something to eat with friends in an evening without obligation, without too many explanations on the doughs, on the ingredients, on the subjects first. Without formalities, in short, and certainly without spending The 50 euros that are requested by border for the six -course tasting menu. And it is perhaps also this attitude of the public who has prevented pizzerias – as refined – from entering the universe of high catering (despite the high catering, liked to also like them), with consequent requests to the guidance of the guides, the Michelin one who has never found a worthy of his star for now.

So, in defense of the all -Italian tradition of pizza, perhaps it is really worth changing perspective, and starting to look at pizzerias (also) with a different eye, and with a greater propensity for experimentation and curiosity. For those with all this, Milan border – but also places like Grains pepper in Caiazzo, near Caserta or Tigli by Simone Padoan in San Bonifacio, in the province of Veronato name two more – is exactly the right address to go, to eat what for 50 top pizza is one of the best pizzerias in the world. The best fourth in the world, to be exact, behind a Neapolitan pizza in New York, Diego Vitaglianao in Naples, the Masanielli in Caserta and The Pizza Bar in Tokyo.

What you eat from the Milan border

Not just any pizza, in short, but a pizza that arrives in tasting, slice after slice, making it parade Dough, ideas, shapes, topping. And above all, being accompanied by a pairing of great wines selected and proposed by Mario – there are also beers, but they are in absolute minority, and such as to make everything that can be conventional can be had in mind.

The first step to be a “pizza restaurant” rather than a pizzeria is perhaps just that. And then there is the service, which is still informal (we are not in an engineering place, SUVVIA, here the spirit is Neapolitan) but very attentive, precise, professional, prepared.

And then there is the menu, that of Francesco Capece, “border pizza chef”who brings you his proposals one after the other, starting – if you do it is absolutely worth it – with the “timeless fried food” (crocché, omelettes, bao, polentina) and continuing with its pizzas. The dances open with a stuffed sock, which arrives like a bracelet, a large round that embraces the ingredients. Wonderfully crunchy, a small sculpture that reinvents a great classic.

And then the Margherita, the Style border, with ancient tomato of Naples, buffalo mozzarella from Campana DOP, Parmigiano Reggiano, extra virgin olive oil monocultivar lick and basil, stuffed crunchy pizza, those with sumptuous topping, such as the one with cauliflower cream, 18 months, Mortadella di Mora Romagnola, Balsamic vinegar of Modena 18 years, Rofano mayonnaise and black truffle.

It ends (unless the dessert is still, it is clear) with Umaminara, umami reinterpretation of the traditional marinara: tomato San Marzano DOP smoked with beech wood, red garlic cream of Nubia blend with milk, pasta and cholar of anchovies, basil gel, datterini cream, cape powder, olives and black garlic, oregano, Greek basil, extra virgin olive oil monocultivar leccino.

A different pizza experience, which is definitely worth doing. If you find a place.