Atacama: the fascination of geysers and the Cactus Valley in the desert

THE Atacama Desert It is a land of extremes. And this is one of the most fascinating reasons to decide on a route through the region, as geysers, rivers, cactus valleys and temperatures that start from below zero and reach over 30°C in the same day are special attractions in what is one of the driest places on Earth.

In the north of Chile, Atacama is one of those destinations that makes us want to return, whether to experience other tours or even to have another look at the same region. It was with this mindset that I returned to the desert to open the 8th season of CNN Viagem & Gastronomia.

It’s worth remembering that, with so many scenarios and multiple excursions, Atacama won not just one, but two episodes. If in the first program I covered some not so obvious attractions, such as Laguna Negra, Vallecito and the Confluence of the Rio Salado, the second goes further, in which I show some peculiarities in the surroundings of San Pedro de Atacama.

Assembling the script


Llamas cross the road in the Atacama Desert

To begin with, it is a mistake to think that the desert is completely inhospitable: rivers that cut through the aridity, resulting from the melting of the Andes, give us very interesting landscapes, including different species of plants.

Salar lagoons also come into play, resulting from the evaporation of water in regions of high salinity and an extremely dry climate, which attract animal life through their microorganisms.

Another mistake is to ignore the center of San Pedro de Atacama the main base for travelers arriving in the desert. We must dedicate at least an afternoon and evening to its small dirt streets, which are home to restaurants, bars and shops selling souvenirs and typical products.

Finally, my tip is to make as many astronomical tours find it necessary, since stargazing is one of the most striking beauties of Atacama. When night falls, thousands of little white dots appear in the clear sky, giving rise to moments of reflection.

This is only possible due to a combination of factors: there is no pollution, there is no light interference from large urban centers, the climate is dry and we are at high altitudes. The spectacle has even piqued the curiosity of travelers around the world, and is even one of the travel trends for next year.

The itinerary is also best enjoyed when we get up early and go for a walk early in the morning, where the road itself proves to be an attraction in itself. Some of the most special and not so obvious attractions can be seen in this article, but I share more activities below that should be on your itinerary:

Tatio geysers: force of nature


Daniela Filomeno at the Tatio Geysers, in Atacama

The Tatio geothermal basin is about 90 km north of San Pedro de Atacama and is home to Tatio Geysers one of the most fantastic attractions in the desert. Geothermal activity shows its full force when water erupts, creating smoke screens across the landscape.

The best way to enjoy all this beauty is to take the tour very early in the morning, when temperatures can be freezing. But the effort is worth it: we witness a spectacle that involves vapors and the sunrise behind the volcano.

“In the desert, the coldest time is at sunrise. This happens due to the lack of moisture in the atmosphere. The temperature only starts to rise when the sun appears, which heats up the atmosphere, causing the forces of the smoke to go away”, says Rodolfo Yhetro, local tour guide.

And how are geysers formed? “The aquifers beneath the earth begin to heat up from the hot rock, but a series of impermeable rocks prevent the water from reaching the surface. The water boils and finds a permeable layer, creating exit channels”, explains Rodolfo.

After enjoying the show, it is common for breakfast to be served in the surrounding area, including landscapes above four thousand meters of altitude.

Vale dos Cactus: off-the-beaten-track landscape


Daniela Filomeno in the Cactus Valley, Atacama

Not far from San Pedro de Atacama is another not-so-known surprise: the Cactus Valley also called Guatín . It’s a completely different landscape, giving us a more bucolic view of the Atacama.

Here, several trails take us to different points in the valley, which opens up to incredible landscapes dotted with cacti on the side of a canyon. The Guatín River also passes through here, resulting from the melting of the Cordillera, and creates ideal conditions for cacti to flourish.

With the altitude, which exceeds three thousand meters, and the evaporation of water, the cacti grow from one to three centimeters per year. In other words: one-meter cacti were formed over about 100 years. Along the walk, we saw some that are up to eight meters tall, which tells us that they have been here for around 800 years.

Alongside a guide, the cool thing is also to cross the canyon to reach a waterfall, where we can bathe. However, the water is so cold that just putting our feet in we feel more energized.

As the tour generally takes place in the afternoon, it is also possible to go up to the viewpoint to enjoy the sunset, one of the most beautiful I have seen in my life.

Atacama Salar

About 100 km long, the Atacama Salar It’s like an oasis in the middle of the desert where animals arrive early in the morning to drink water and feed.

Considered one of the largest salt deserts in the world, it is certainly one of the most impressive places in Atacama. The salt plain is formed by the evaporation of salt lakes, in which water evaporated over thousands of years and left a crust of salt visible.

Today, there are still certain lagoons in the region, such as Laguna Chaxa famous for attracting slender flamingos. There is an explanation: water brings together microorganisms that are the basis of these animals’ nutrition. Part of the Los Flamencos National Reserve, it is about 56 km south of San Pedro de Atacama

There are three types of flamingos that display their beauty across the water and, from time to time, take flight in flocks, an even more beautiful spectacle at dusk.

Accommodation: Nayara Alto Atacama

After a few days in Awasi Atacama a boutique hotel with just 12 accommodations in San Pedro de Atacama, I decided to try another type of accommodation, this time outside the small town. THE Nayara Alto Atacama It was my second home in the desert and it impressed me right away: the hotel embraces the surrounding landscape and blends in with it, creating a unique atmosphere.

There are 42 suites, with sizes starting at 50 m², which have balconies with spectacular views directly over the Devil’s Throat, in Catarpe Valley . The hotel is practically positioned in front of the valley, in a grand area with no neighbors.

The feeling is that of being truly immersed in the desert, where even the sunset is a fascinating experience. Activities designed alongside guides to discover the surroundings are offered during the stay and tailor-made experiences can also be requested.

The Nayara Alto Atacama, part of the Nayara Resorts which also has properties in Costa Rica and Easter Island, also promotes a journey through Chilean food from local producers. A tasting menu is served with the best of the region, including preparations with rich-rich an ingredient that was used as a medicine, but which found its way onto the country’s plates and glasses.

If desired, wines are also among the pairing options, including those from the Ayllu winery, made in the desert, in extreme conditions, with vineyards above 2,500 meters and subject to water stress and wide temperature ranges. The result? Mineral and striking wines.

After the tours, there is nothing better than relaxing in the spa one of the hotel’s highlights, which incorporates ancestral techniques and regional herbs to compose the menu of experiences. There are at least half a dozen swimming pools spread across the hotel and, at the end of the day, we can try an outdoor barbecue with different cuts of meat, corn and potatoes.

Before going to sleep, don’t forget to look up. Nayara Alto Atacama offers a structure with a professional telescope so that we can observe the night sky, another welcome moment to be dazzled by the beauty that the desert offers us.

Rosell Boher: the restaurant with views of the Andes Mountains

The post Atacama: the fascination of geysers and the Cactus Valley in the desert appeared first on CNN Brasil V&G.

Source: CNN Brasil

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