The thick and generous eyebrows, the generous stroke of eyeliner, the perfectly separated lashes, the naturally plumped lips. Even the most faded memories these details will not struggle to evoke the image of the famous Audrey Hepburn.
Author of that make-up, now considered iconic and legendary, is Alberto de Rossi, who has been alongside the actress for 25 years. The one between the two was a deep bond and mutual respect, so much so that according to what was reported by Vogue.com it seems that the actress, when de Rossi died, declared that she no longer wanted to work. A sincere and not so superfluous homage to the man who took care of his image and role that trick played in his important career.
Elegant, refined, never over the top the actress of Breakfast at Tiffany’s continues today to be an icon of a timeless beauty. That’s why with the help of Luca Mannucci, Deborah Milano make-up artist, we tried to identify the key points of her look and the steps to try to replicate it. From its iconic cat eye all lips until to eyebrows, a fundamental element to make the look stand out.
“I seem to remember that you did ballet. Dancers have always been wearing little makeup and have always paid a lot of attention to detail eyebrows that on the stage become the main attractive element of the face»Explains Mannucci.
THE FUNDAMENTAL ROLE OF EYEBROWS
«The brows are well defined, thick and slightly darker than the base of the hair they give character, personality and strength to the look. They are the natural frame of the eyes and give presence to the gaze, illuminate it and already by themselves, without the need for eye shadows, make the iris more brilliant ».
HOW TO MAKE THEM
«For this type of eyebrow it is necessary a pencil or paste product that helps to better fill the areas to be thickened. To make them so expressive and current is also important comb them from bottom to top. Finally, a fundamental transparent mascara which enhances the color and intensity of the line. The last step necessary to highlight the eyebrows, like a bas-relief, is that of outline it with a butter-colored pencil to be blended immediately with a flat brush».
CAT EYE ALLA AUDREY
«Eye makeup is characterized by a fairly thick line of black eyeliner with a horizontal tail. What made this look so iconic that it was dubbed the “doe look” are the long bunches of false lashes placed at the outer corners of the eyes. If you do not want to resort to this last trick it is essential to choose a mascara that perfectly defines and separates lashes, insisting above all on the external ones.»
THE STEPS TO REALIZE THE CAT EYE
1) On the palpebra mobile a clear matte eyeshadow of a neutral color, such as cream, which blends perfectly with the skin color.
2) In the crease or arch of the eyelid, using a small, rounded brush, you blend a soft and sophisticated color that gives depth without being noticed, such as a hazelnut or taupe color.
3) The same color fades along the lower line of the eye creating a light shadow. The shading must be more intense on the external corners and almost imperceptible on the internal ones. To make the eye even sharper, you can add a tip of smoky gray eyeshadow to the chosen eyeshadow. At this point I suggest placing one at the lower outer corner of the eye concealer line that runs towards the outer corner of the eyebrow. We leave this dash of concealer until the end of the makeup. Then we will calmly blend it with a flat brush or fingertips.
4) On the upper rim of the eye you run a line of black eyeliner that you remember the shape of a wave. Therefore it must not be a straight line, but a soft and rounded one. A line of medium height and not very fine. The stretch must be noticed! It starts from the outer corner and goes out a few millimeters. If I keep above the corrector stroke, everything will be easier. In the center of the lash line, practically near the pupil, the eyeliner line must be slightly rounded and then refine up to the inner corner.
5) Last step: the application of the mascara or, as I said at the beginning, the use of tufts of eyelashes at the outer corners of the eye. Remember that mascara must be applied also on the lower lashes, but only on the outermost ones. There must be no product deposit, just a touch.
LIPS
“To accomplish this soft and gentle shape it is necessary to round off the upper arc using a tone-on-tone pencil with lipstick. There must be no gap between the contour and the color of the lips so it is essential blend the pencil inwards with a brush. Usually to make the lips like that naturally plumped up two colors of lipstick are used, blending the lighter one right in the center of the lips. The medium intensity nude shades are in my opinion the most successful. “
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