After emerging in the Laguiole, which used to function inside the Museum of Modern Art of Rio (MAM), Elia Schramm he expanded his fame as executive chef of the entrepreneurial group 14zero3 – owner of a number of cool houses such as Pici, Oia and L’Atelier Mimolette.
This year, after leaving the post at the end of the year, he decided it was time to launch his first restaurant. That’s how the Santa Osteria, opened in October in a large two-story property that was once the headquarters of the extinct Salitre, on Rua Barão da Torre, in Ipanema.
The house’s name (meaning dad in Italian) is a reference to Elia’s father, Roland Schramm, who was born in Zurich but grew up in the Italian part of Switzerland. Hence the reason why the recipes from the country of boots, some of which are family-owned, guide the menu, which features original hints of classics from the Italian table.
A good example of this is the great cannoli (R$ 42). Usually sweet, the Italian straw is prepared here with the delicate filo pastry and has a savory filling — a salad of shrimp, green apple and celery.
The risotto dumpling has a version with pumpkin, goat cheese and sage (R$27 – 6 units) and the sealed tuna is served with a reduction of miso and passion fruit, enhanced with curd and pistachio (R$52).
Twelve main dishes, including pastas, meats and seafood, make up the sequence of the menu. Two orders of inviting value are the rigatoni with a ragout of Tuscan sausage and rosemary (R$ 48), and the polpettone stuffed with buffalo mozzarella with tagliolini in butter and sage (R$ 56).
The five mushroom risotto with truffle parsley (R$ 74) and the portentous braised lamb stinco with chickpea puree, curd, crispy onion and herb salad (R$ 94) are also great.
From the bar, with drinks made by bartender Mari Burity, a sure-fire tip is viareggio (R$ 37). Served in a long glass, it’s a refreshing combination of bourbon, limoncello, ginger ale and lemon juice.
Tip: the house does not charge a cork fee for those who want to bring their own wine.
Santa Osteria
Rua Barão da Torre, 632, Ipanema – Rio de Janeiro – RJ / Tel.: (21) 3197-2801 / Hours of Operation: Monday to Wednesday, from 12:00 pm to 4:00 pm and from 7:00 pm to 11:00 pm, Thursday to Saturday, from 12:00 pm to 4:00 pm and from 7:00 pm to 12:00 am, Sunday, from 12:00 pm to 6:00 pm
A journalist from São Paulo who travels weekly between São Paulo and Rio, he has written about gastronomy for major vehicles, such as Veja São Paulo, O Estado de São Paulo and Época São Paulo. Over the past ten years, he has visited eighteen countries in search of good places to eat, drink, party and exercise bohemian life. He also shares his findings on the website and Instagram Taste and Fly.
Reference: CNN Brasil
