Balenciaga, when the fashion show is a (cinematic) mimesis of his expectation

Anyone who, at least once in their life, has crossed the places of a fashion capital during fashion week, will have noticed one of the phenomena that most characterizes these adrenaline-filled days: even before the fashion shows you can perceive an electrifying atmosphere of hype, in which even those who have not received an invitation try to ingratiate themselves with the lenses of the photographers with an ad hoc look, and students or fashion enthusiasts try to enter the fashion shows asking until the last if there is at least one place left standing.

But most of all, celebrities invited to the shows await, illuminated by dozens of flashes. Demna Gvasalia, for the Spring / Summer 2022 season, took inspiration from this ritual moment of the fashion weeks, taking it to a higher level and making it, in fact, the innovative way to present her new collection for Balenciaga.

The invitation to the show contained few clues that could suggest the artistic director’s revolutionary idea: the location would be the Théâtre de Châtelet, where those present would have attended a screening, then go to the after party. However, once they arrived at the Parisian theater, celebrities, editors, influencers and insiders found themselves in parading on a red carpet in a film premiere style, while everything was being filmed and broadcast in the internal room. Is exactly when the guests entered to take their seats they realized that they themselves were the models, unaware, of the new collection fashion, worn both by stars – such as Isabelle Huppert, Elliott Page, Cardi B, Naomi Campbell and many others – models and by the maison’s employees. But it doesn’t stop there, because everyone was waiting on the big screen, too show Spring / Summer 2022 in… Simpson version.

The Balenciaga looks sported by the guests themselves on the red carpet, which continued to nourish the rich imagery of the maison made of couture as much as grunge, street style and sportswear with a hint of gabbar style, were then worn by the characters of the famous animated series, in a special episode in which even they, from Homer to Lisa, walked the runway in Paris for the French maison. What made a show, therefore, were not so much the garments of the Spring / Summer 2022 collection, from oversized outerwear to logomania, passing through overlays and ripped denims. Rather, it was a question to go on stage that has gripped the fashion system for years and, in particular, from the period of lockdown and restrictions: what is the meaning and, above all, the value of the show? Demna Gvasalia wanted to respond, in a totally explicit way but without saying a word, not with a breath, but with a cyclone of fresh air, as if to ask in turn a provocative question: colleagues, are you sure that you have really questioned your vision of the industry, or did you want to protect your status first of all?

In the gallery, the looks of the Balenciaga Spring / Summer 2022 collection.