It’s Tuesday night aboard the Caledonian Sleeper which operates six days a week between London and Scotland and the Club Car is in full swing. After a meal of Scottish haggis, neeps and tatties, passengers are sipping on Edinburgh whiskies and gins while making new friends in the swivel seats and cozy cabins, elegantly upholstered in burnt orange and teal.
We leave the hustle and bustle of London’s busy Euston Terminal behind at 8pm. In just over 12 hours we’ll arrive in Fort William, known as the “outdoor capital of the UK” and home to the country’s highest mountains, including the imposing Ben Nevis at 1,345 metres.
This 500-mile journey from southern to northern Britain is called the Deerstalker — a White Stag is the Caledonian Sleeper’s logo — and is considered the most scenic of the train’s five routes, which take in both Scottish towns and the more remote Highlands.
The train underwent a $200 million (R$1 billion) refurbishment in 2019, continuing a 150-year tradition of services between London and Scotland.
It is one of two sleeper train services in Britain, the other being the Night Riviera Sleeper which runs west from London Paddington to the coastal town of Penzance in Cornwall.
It’s a prestigious train – and the prices match that reputation. Fares vary, so if you’re willing to take the plunge and opt for the seat carriage, which offers first-class comfort and adjustable lighting, headrests, cushions and footrests, you can get a one-way ticket in advance for around £55.
That’s around £20 more than a one-hour return flight to Edinburgh, the Scottish capital, making the Caledonian Sleeper the most glamorous option luxurious and ecological, but also the slowest and most expensive.
The most luxurious category, a double suite with a real bed, breakfast served in the room and access to the station lounge, usually costs around US$325 (R$2354) per person each way — although it usually sells out in advance.
It is worth it?
So, is it a good choice? Simon Butterworth who travels with his partner Elizabeth Coppard for the Outer Hebrides, he says that “as crazy as it sounds”, it is the most economical option when going from one rural location to another.
Factoring in airport transfers, taxis, car rental, parking and overnight accommodation, a Classic Room (with bunk beds, sink and shared bathroom) is a smart and convenient option for around $166 per person.
They estimate this is their fourth time traveling by sleeper train. Several passengers in the Club Car, which is exclusively for sleepers, say they are frequent customers.
Railroad enthusiast Will Swain travels by train at least once a year and was planning to propose to his girlfriend Chloe Beckett in marriage on this trip. However, as Beckett explains, happy to tell the story of their romance, “he kind of let the secret slip too soon” and tonight they are celebrating their engagement.
Leaving the Club Car behind and settling into the Club En-Suite, a private room with bunk beds and a bathroom with shower, there’s no denying it’s a tight space.
Even for one person, there is little room to move around. If you are traveling as a couple, you will probably have to use the bathroom as a changing room as well.
Luggage can be stored under the bunks, but it may take a little creativity to organize your bags.
However, the room’s design is charming and cozy, with Replin by Hainsworth fabrics inspired by traditional tweed and plenty of thoughtful touches, from the full-length mirror on the back of the door to the array of plug sockets and USB ports.
Plus, the floors are spotlessly clean and the mattresses are surprisingly comfortable, ensuring a good night’s sleep.
Falling asleep is a remarkably relaxing experience, with the carriage lulling passengers into their private quarters, the engine and wheels churning rhythmically—though occasionally interrupted by the occasional metallic creak.
The revelation
Waking at 7am, I look out the raindrop-strewn window to see dense groves of Scots pines, hills rising from the shimmering mist, and the subtle shimmer of loch waters.
Even though the weather wasn’t on our side on this September trip, the Scottish Highlands have a unique beauty whether it’s raining or occasionally in the sun.
The rain lets up and I see three deer running through the heather (a common plant in the region), while peat-rich streams run with brown-colored water.
The price of the trip may be comparable to that of a five-star hotel, but waking up to the Highland landscapes is a six-star experience and absolutely unique .
The shower — with Arran toiletries — is effective, refreshing and surprisingly spacious.
THE breakfast is included in the suites . Options include Scottish specialties such as Lorne sausage — a type of square sausage — and traditional cooked breakfasts.
You’ll likely find larger portions and more delicious food once you’re back on solid ground, but it’s served with friendliness by friendly staff dressed in luxury Harris tweed waistcoats and tartan ties designed by Glasgow fashion label ten30. And of course, there are those endless Highland views to enjoy from the windows, making it all that little bit more enjoyable.
Upon landing at Fort William, we had a coffee and snack in the Caledonian Sleeper lounge and chatted with the driver. John Hynd who was enjoying a well-deserved rest.
He has been a train driver since 1979 and claims to have never taken a day off sick. His father also worked on the railways, as a signaller, and moved to Fort William in the 1960s.
“It changes all the time, every day is different,” he says. His favourite part of the route is “around Loch Long, between Garelochead and Arrochar, probably one of the most beautiful parts of the route. I think a lot of people like the bleakness of Rannoch Moor, for me it’s the lochs and the mountains.”
When the weather is good it’s “stunning,” he says. “I’ve been doing this for 44 years and some mornings are magnificent.”
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Johanna Foster is an expert opinion writer with over 7 years of experience. She has a reputation for delivering insightful and thought-provoking articles on a variety of subjects. Her work can be found on some of the top online news websites, and she is currently lending her voice to the world stock market.
