We were waiting for it, we “feared”: the new era of Michael Rider from Celine has arrived, baptized by a thongs. Directly fromheadquarter from the maison In Rue Vivienne in Paris, the spring 2026 parade sews together tranches de vie Collected along the road behind the brand, reinterpreting them skillfully in shaded quotes. The sober lines of Céline Vipian dialogue with the conceptual aesthetic of Phoebe Philoseasoned with the sharp silhouettes of Hedi Slimane. All filtered by an unpublished Sense of humor. After all, how to hold the comparison with none other than the most influential stylists of the century? For the creative neo -irector: not a radical rupture, but a continuity of that chicness unmistakable, orchestrated to perfection.
«The starting point was my return to France (Rider worked from Balenciaga, then from Celine from 2008 to 2018 alongside Phoebe Philo, and then returned to the States to direct the Womenswear by Ralph Lauren, editor’s note.) And I chose this building where I spent nine wonderful years, “says Rider. «Everything was intuitively built with elements that were new to me. I wanted to be modern and strong ».
The result? A atemporal collection where the stylistic legacy of its predecessors is dressed in a new vision. In perfect balance between an Ivy League fantasy and a grimace Rive Gauche. On the one hand they emerge oxford in love shirts combined with rhombuses knotted on the shoulders, striped ties, oversized rugby blouses. On the other, we find refined trench ultra-minimalfolds pants with edges stored in wrestling boots, impeccable tailoring blazers from Saint-Germain gallery owner. Subbuced in a camel, ivory, black and beige chromatic palette, dotted with vibrant accents of green, red, blue and aquamarine. Without forgetting the Ode at the Logo-Mania, declined on the labels well in sight, on the t-shirts, on the pulls, as a tribute to the founder Céline Vipiana.
Where clothes whisper a relaxed elegance, the accessories indulge. A trail of silk scarf rests on the hills of the models, on the shoulders, on the bags of hyperbolic proportions – from leather tote to raffia baskets. Exaggerated, as well as the overlaps of chains oscillating from the sleeves of the jackets, bracelets, buckles, pins, rings, of charms who rock from the Eiffel Tour -shaped necklaces. As for fun. “I am a very funny person, I think that today in fashion they lack the sense of lightness and humor a little,” observes Rider.
In the front row, to support the American designer here are the colleagues Raf Simons and Jonathan Anderson, fresh from his debut from Dior. “I have always loved the idea of ​​a clothing that lives, which becomes part of the life of the wearer, which can capture a moment over time but which speaks of years and years, of gestures and occasions and changes, of the past, present and future, of memories, of utility and fantasy. Of life precisely, “says Rider. That exceeded this first test desk very well, it seems officially ready to kick off the new chapter of the fashion by Celine.
Source: Vanity Fair
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