The coveted spot Botanical Garden where Lorenzo Bistrô operated (2008-2019) recently gained a new tenant. opened the doors there malkah on the corner of Rua Lopes Quintas and Visconde de Carandaí.
With a name that means queen, in Hebrew, the restaurant is the chef’s new home Ludmilla Soeiro who worked for 18 years at Zuka — a house that was a huge success at Dias Ferreira, in Leblon, until he succumbed to the pandemic.
Your partner in the venture is Erika Rangel daughter of the Bahian cook Isis Rangel from the Sabores de Gabriela restaurant, also in the Botanical Garden.
Malkah’s menu includes recipes from various nationalities, always with an authorial touch.
A successful starter is the oriental steak tartar (R$59). Served with quail egg yolk, it innovates by adding coriander oil and capelin roe and by accompanying — in place of toast — a delicious fried blade made with harumaki dough and nori seaweed sheet.
One of the few suggestions Ludmilla brought from Zuka was ceviche (R$62). Her recipe escapes the Peruvian primer.
The fish is presented in strips and the leche de tigre is less acidic, made with orange and lemon juices and olive oil. Finally, it takes chives, red onion and pout pepper, which combine well.
The chef is also known for her comforting dishes, such as the delicious tagliatelle (R$68) with beef brisket ragout and tomato sauce.
It is finished with fonduta de grana padano and pangrattato (bread crumbs). Mix it all up and be happy.
Another tempting order: grilled chorizo steak (R$ 136), which comes with panko farofa and mashed potatoes with truffled soft yolks on top.
To top it off, it’s hard to choose between the coconut ice cream cake (R$32), grandma’s sighs (with whipped cream, lemon zest and red fruit syrup, R$32) and, for those who don’t want to go overboard with calories , the sugar-free Belgian chocolate pie (R$36), sprinkled with fleur de sel.
malkah : Rua Visconde de Carandaí, 2, Jardim Botânico, Rio de Janeiro / Tel.: (21) 3580-3386 / Opening hours: Tuesday to Saturday, from 12 pm to 11 pm, and Sunday, from 12 pm to 5 pm. It doesn’t work on Mondays.
Fabio Wright
A journalist from São Paulo who travels weekly between São Paulo and Rio, he has written about gastronomy for major vehicles, such as Veja São Paulo, O Estado de S. Paulo and Época São Paulo. In the last ten years, he has visited eighteen countries in search of good places to eat, drink, party and exercise bohemia. Also share your findings on the site and Instagram Taste and Fly.
*Texts published by Insiders do not necessarily reflect the opinion of CNN Viagem & Gastronomia.
Source: CNN Brasil
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