At the restaurant of Claudio Amendola sitting with him in front of a pasta to talk about the success of Roman cuisine in Milan: “It is good, sincere and knows of the house: Roman cuisine is a trend against the current compared to the frenetic rhythms that imposes a city like this»He says, with the inevitable smile. The actor and director has just opened Roman farmhousein via Sirtori 34, together with Andrea La Calta, a well -known restaurant manager: it is a well -articulated concept on two floors.
“We wanted to combine the experience of Frezza-Cucina de Coccio which I opened in 2022 in the historic center of Rome to pay homage to the most enjoyable and homemade soul of our cuisine with that de They donkey that Andrea leads to Tivoli and where a contemporary interpretation of the tradition of the Roman countryside is discovered »says Amendola, who has risen to Milan to take a look at the club while in the capital he is recording the expected”Cesaroni- The return»Where he is the protagonist and director.
Amendola’s Madeleine: Mother’s broccoli pasta and grandmother’s stuffed peppers
Amendola has always been a man from restaurants (“Better the trattorias but sometimes, however, I get to eat a more ‘modern’ proposal”) so as to have opened two before Frezza in Rome: theOsteria del Park in Valmontone and one always in the capital, from 1990 to 1994. «IThe second taught me to relate to the customer: first of all he pays and therefore deserves all the attention and all the respect possible». Memory cuisine cannot be missing. «Mom’s house reigned the Sicilian tradition with very good pasta like the one with the ‘arriminated’ broccoli or with the sardines. Father’s family, on the other hand, was much more Roman, traditional and always ate “cooked kitchen“. I especially remember i stuffed peppers That the grandmother and the aunts did to dad when on Friday he returned to the beach after a week of work and the menu of Grandma Amelia. Always the same, it must be said: Spaghetti with sausage sauce, sausage with sauce, panate slices and fried potatoes».
The boom of the Roman clubs
Roman farmhouse, as mentioned, strengthens the presence of Capitoline cuisine in Milan. That ranges from Taverna Trastere of another actor such as Nicola Vaporidis to the premises of Max Mariolafrom affirmed signs in Rome as Felice Al Testaccio And Veloavevodetto to historical signs such as Giulio, Ajo and Oio passing through simple, successful places, such as Wanting well. Below whoever touches, in short. In the case of the duo Amendola-la Caita, the roles were divided, so that the premises are distinct. On the ground floor there is the authentic cuisine of Frezza, where the most loved dishes like The fried foods or first first of Roman cuisinejoin the mixology, with the possibility – increasingly sought – to have dinner at the counter. On the first floor the heart of the traditional cuisine of Li Somari is revealed, with a menu of local dishes reinterpreted with the expert Adriano Baldassarrestarry cook and supervisor of the entire project.
The pastes of the Roman tradition and also the pizza (superscrocciarella)
«Frezza is a hot place, where you laugh, eat and drink: there are the house flavors, the” grandmother “flavors as it is used. The name derives from the street where it is based in the center of Rome, I liked the sound of this word as I liked “cuisine of cocci” because in my opinion it is something that remains, which is noticed “explains Amendola. Than in the menu Recommend two sections in particular. «Our first, those of the Roman tradition and therefore Carbonara, Amatriciana, Cacio and Pepe, Gricia They give me great satisfaction. I am also very proud of the pizzawe found a dough that is only ours to make it very low and super scrocchiarella“He underlines. In fact, Frezza aims at a light experience, convivial in a pleasant environment even if he ‘plays’ to do the More Milanese bistro than the Roman trattoria. But it is there, thinking about the possible clientele.
“I love amatriciana and meatballs”
In the menu there are pizzas (red and white), focaccia, the fried bombs with delicious fillings, a nice number of classic fried foods (Supplì and artichoke to the Judia above all) and the already appointed series of the first of the tradition. The “cuisine de coccio” is certainly the most interesting section, from a culinary point of view: coded tail, sauce meatballs, chicken and peppers and panate lamb ribs. The prices are competitive for today’s Milan: 40 euros For a fried, a first course and a “de cocci” taste. And taking a bottle from the (small, for now) cellar you don’t ruin. If he will order Amendola, he would focus ontomato and bacon and the Meatballs with sauce “They are my favorite dishes. At home, however, I eat light, for example, and I love to cook the meat according to long cooking because it is a good impression without complications. It being understood that I rarely put myself in the kitchen and I am not creative“He admits.
Baldassarre’s tasting
From them donkeys is explored a more sought after cuisine, which plays between tradition and experimentation. And there is also a tasting for 75 euros called “Tribute pills to Lazio “ Tuned directly to Baldassare where the central poker consists of dishes such as the chopped cod with potato cream and truffle; Vaccinara and celery meatballs; the gnocchi stuffed with chicken to the hunter, onion and greases; the variation of lamb, chicory and friggitelli. The pasta follow the same reinterpretation line: from the “cornuto” fettuccine (with butter, parmesan, lemon and marjoram) to the tortelli of cod to the arrans of sea passing through the cheese and pepper with raw shrimp marinated with lime and mint. To continue there are the super parmigiana of aubergines and dishes such as the bright red tuna with Garum of the house. There is also a section of the menu dedicated exclusively to fifth quarter And therefore go ahead to the Roman tripe, a tongue to the beat and the Padellotto di Regaje or the chicken -breeds. The killer we make it serve to Amendola, of course. “I would love Cascina Romana it became a point of conviviality, a place where people can stay even after finishing eating, unless there are people in line, then you must alzà …”
Source: Vanity Fair
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