Demna senses: Oversize has done its time. Finally the advances on what will be the new chapter by Gucci. Or rather, on what will not be

Little is missing from the debut of Demna to Gucci’s creative direction. And there was to wait for them, as promptly arrived, the first revelations on his new stylistic road undertaken for the Florentine maison. In an interview issued exclusively to the German newspaper Zeit, The Georgian stylist has officially announced the retrofront compared to What has always been a distinctive feature of its artistic figure: clothing oversize.

Balenciaga and Vetements, is “war” between brothers?

There was a time when Demna and Guram, the enemy-friendly brothers of fashion, worked side by side. As long as something has changed, especially for Demna that it was chosen to guide the Balenciaga maison. Eight years after the first crack in the duo, Guram is ready to redeem himself

Arrow

To stay updated on the royalty, the celebrities, the shows and all the news from the world Vanity Fairsubscribe to ours Newsletter.

Gucci, Chanel, Versace and Balenciaga (but not only): when will the new creative directors debut exactly?

The next seasons scheduled in the fashion circuit will see numerous debuts. From Jonathan Anderson from Dior to Demna Gvasalia da Gucci, we tell you when and where they will go on the catwalk

Arrow

Creative directors debut

It was precisely theoversizeon the other hand, One of the essential elements of the collections that Demna designed during her ten years in Balenciaga (where following his departure the debut of Pierpaolo Piccioli is now awaited). Maxi and imposing volumes have characterized the season in the season not only his vision of the Ready-to-wear, but also that of the Haute Couture which, right during his mandate, was reintroduced in the atelier of the fashion house.

Balenciaga springestate 2025.

Balenciaga spring-summer 2025.

Launchmetrics.com/spotlight

There have been many iconic moments in the name of overall projects in special projects, someone will remember that maxi (but just maxi) red duvet worn by Homer Simpson in the brilliant collaboration of Balenciaga with the cartoonist Matt Groening, found in 2021 in an exclusive episode of the famous cartoon The Simpsons.

The Balenciaga chapter is closed, the heartfelt passion for volumes like Avatar would therefore seem ready to get aside. “At the moment I’m not very interested in theoversize. I have already passed us, it’s something I’ve already done “told Demna at the source. The reason? «Today oversize is part of fashion mainstreambut not in a positive sense. THE’oversize I don’t care so much, “concluded the designer.

Balenciaga Haute Couture Collection Autumnainverno 202122.

Balenciaga, Haute Couture collection Autumn-winter 2021/22.

Courtesy of Balenciaga

A real position, which traces a demarcation line Compared to what was his past: an exaggerated reinterpretation – always witty and built with criteria – of those volumes with which already the founder Cristóbal Balenciaga was immediately distinguished after the foundation of his homonymous Maison in 1917.

A Balenciaga dress from 1956.

A Balenciaga dress from 1956.

Jean Croquin/Getty Images

So what will Gucci be under the creative direction of Demna? Will his (other) passion for leggings suggest perhaps silhouettes tending to a newfound essentiality of the lines? At the announcement of his appointment, the declaration of the CEO of Gucci Stefano Cantino had left well how the choice had fallen on Demna for his “courageous and unparalleled” stylistic figure, animated by the great respect for tradition and his extraordinary contemporary sensitivity. It can therefore be bet that Demna will demna, always in dialogue with the Gucci archivebut certainly taking the distances from what was proposed by the previous two former creative directors Alessandro Michele and Saturday de Sarno.

On the left the former creative director of Gucci Alessandro Michele. On the right Demna.

On the left, the former creative director of Gucci Alessandro Michele. On the right, demna.

Arturo Holmes/Mg23/Getty Images

All Cristóbal Balenciaga in 5 famous quotes

Even Coco Chanel recognized the highest authority of the time in Cristóbal: “The only real couturier, after all, was him, the others are only fashion designers”. We retrace the history of the Spanish stylist who erected the foundations of modern couture

Arrow

In its stylistically democratic perspective – clothes that, however expensive, speak to people – Demna, however, anticipated the presence of some of her flicks of genius in the new Gucci chapter: «Every now and then I like to introduce the idea of ​​something not wearable or useless, provided that it is incredibly conceptual. But this represents only about ten percent of my production ». Appointment in September, with the official debut.

Source: Vanity Fair

You may also like