We cannot judge the film yet but the dress that appears in the poster for Spencer it is universally considered a masterpiece. Among the triggering causes of fever for the biopic signed by Pablo Larraìn to be released in US theaters on November 5 there is certainly the cloud of beige organza in which Kristen Stewart, called to interpret Diana, plunges his face into a desperate act.
Unlike the other outfits that we will see on the big screen reworked by the talent of the double Oscar-winning costume designer Jacqueline Durran, this is a dress that has a name and a surname: it is look no. 82 of Chanel Haute Couture Spring / Summer 1988 collection drawn by Karl Lagerfeld.
Look no. 82 from the Chanel Haute Couture Spring-Summer 1988 collection. Chanel photo
When the poster was disclosed, speculations began to try to identify the inspiration for that dream dress. There are no precise references but the will to give Diana’s character a real princess costume, mixing imagery and concrete examples worn by the tragic heroine in real life.
Having as the protagonist of the filmambassador of the French Maison must have facilitated the costume designer and the director in the requests. When Durran saw the dress he couldn’t help but use it only that the archival dress was too flimsy to withstand shooting. Chanel he therefore decided to create a replica in his ateliers ex new only for Kristen Stewart.
To reproduce the faithful copy, five seamstresses worked full time for a total of 1034 hours of work, of which 700 only for the embroideries made by The wise man. The dress is strapless and with a whalebone bustier characterized by a straight neckline, enriched by a pleated tulle flounce. Gold and silver sequins brighten the dress with a flower and leaf design and the satin belt closes with a bow at the front. The tulle flounces mounted on an organza petticoat and the pleats are the work of Lognon, together with Lesage, Chanel crafts, one of the fashion house’s trusted suppliers who combine tradition and innovative processing methods.
Plenty of tulle and full skirts were the hallmark for that collection. Karl Lagerfeld said he was inspired by the paintings of Franz Xaver Winterhalter, court painter of German origin famous in the nineteenth century for the portraits of the royals of the time including the Queen Victoria and theEmpress Elisabeth of Austria known as Sissi. Winterhalter’s notoriety was due to his ability to reproduce the details of the clothes on canvas with enormous precision so as to make them tangible. We can say that with the Spencer’s poster, so vivid and dramatic, a circle that started from afar has closed with a poster that is a work of art in its own right. Now we just have to wait for the film: if Americans and British can see it at the cinema on Friday 5 November, we have not yet set a date. The website of the Italian distributor talks about a generic 2022. Never was a wait so long.
Other stories of Vanity Fair that may interest you:
– Diana, all about the (alleged) dress of the poster for Spencer
– Kristen Stewart, tartan passion as Lady Diana
– Lady Diana and Kristen Stewart, yesterday and today: two styles compared
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