Dior Cruise 2023, the fashion show in Seville in 5 key points

Each building is flanked by tiled niches, each representing a different province of Spain, and in front of which develops an artificial river crossed by colorful bridges. The square was animated, on the occasion of the parade, by a sensational live orchestra of 30 elements, conducted by the famous composer Alberto Iglesias – the signature of numerous soundtracks including those of Pedro Almodóvar’s films – and as many as 60 dancers, in a show that spoke of Spain, yes, but not only: the Plaza de España in fact, and the city of Seville, represent a beating multicultural heart, crossed by the Romans in ancient times, and later by Islamic culture, until it became the gateway to the Empire Spanish in 1700. A historical and symbolic reminder of cultural inclusiveness as a natural development, and not as an artifice to be used to justify the presence of this or that reference. An example? The mantilla shawlalso present in Dior’s Cruise 2023 collection, was originally born in the Philippines, was exported by the Spaniards to Mexico, and then returned to Spain to become, in the common imagination, a traditional garment of Spanish fashion.

2. Fashion, folklore and sacredness

The date of June 16 was not accidental for the presentation of the Cruise collection: on this day, in fact, the Corpus Domini procession was held, a large religious procession through the streets of the city of Seville, with a gigantic Madonna carried on a throne gold from about twenty young men. An iconography to which Maria Grazia Chiuri referred in the most opulent details of the show, including the elegant broderias, the lace blouses and the baroque architectural forms in the skirts, or even in the perforated leather jackets. The sacred imagery then merged with the more local folkloric one, not only in the continuous evocation of the art of flamenco, but also of equestrian aesthetics: from the mini Saddle bags attached to the belts, to the Amazon’s hats made by none other than Stephen Jones, up to the reinterpretation of riding boots and lace shirts.

3. Dior and Spain

The links between the house of Dior and Spain, and more specifically Andalusia, have roots in the 1950s. Since then they have grown stronger and stronger, both through the physical journeys of Christian Dior, and in the silhouettes conceived by him and his successors. Among others, we find the dress Nuits d’Espagneof 1954, and Bal à Sévillefrom 1956: it is the latter’s design, in particular, that was reinterpreted by Maria Grazia Chiuri for the Cruise 2023 collection, continuing to collaborate with local artisans.

4. Carmen Amaya’s flamenco

Among the female icons that Chiuri was inspired by for the Cruise collection, we find the legendary flamenco dancer Carmen Amaya, also called The Capitana: the first Spanish female star to dress in men’s clothes, she even had the audacity to use masculine moves and gestures in flamenco, which had never been tried before by a woman. «Through the gesture of dance, he combines strength and fragility. She is able to represent the soul of Spain and interpret a conscious female idea, which is feminism, ”the creative director explained on Instagram. A spirit taken up by Blanca Li and her 60 dancers, who performed during the parade with their fiery red dresses. A shade, as well as the natural element that represents it, taken up several times during the fashion show – including the dress that bears the inscription Fuego – however opened by a simple black & white look: a white shirt, combined with suspenders and black trousers, layered under a black knitted poncho with white embroidery and fringes, recalling the typical flamenco masculine outfit and proudly flaunted by the Captain.

In addition to the latter, the women Chiuri referred to in the Cruise collection were the famous Duchess of Albastylist and noblewoman with the most titles ever, e Jackie Kennedywho in addition to being an ante litteram trendsetter, was also a skilled horseman and participated in a parade right through the streets of Seville.

5. A sartorial challenge

In addition to having immersed herself as always in the archives and in the rich heritage of Dior for the looks of the show, the artistic director of the fashion house wanted to create flamenco dresses that could best convey the spirit of the collection, and dress the dancers without impeding them movements. «That was the most difficult test of my life» declared Maria Grazia Chiuri referring to the dresses made for Blanca Li and the flamenco dancers «Fifty women who could not stand still! Pure energy, impossible to measure, and this made them a fundamental part of the show. Plus, they don’t just dance, as their actions create music with the beating of their feet. They themselves become musical instruments ».

In the gallery below, the most beautiful images of the Dior Cruise 2023 fashion show.

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