Dr. Barbara Sturm and the anti-inflammation skincare, the main cause of skin aging: “an easy way to understand what the aggressive products for the skin are is to control if they can be used during pregnancy”

The name of the doctor Barbara Sturm is often associated with the so -called Vampire Faciala treatment of biostimulation or PRP (plate -rich plasma) face, created with maximum customization for its patients, using their blood to rejuvenate the skin. Kim Kardashian, Bar Refaeli And Rupert Everett These are some of the names that according to gossips have tried it.

But Barbara Sturm, a German doctor, 53 years old, energetic, decisive and faithful to the scientificity of each of her declaration, has made her intuitions that sink the roots in the orthopedics, on inflammation as a primary cause of skin aging, a luggage there in the sector of regenerative medicine applied to the skin.

His theories are the result of years of work with a team of orthopedic doctors in the clinic GEMEINSCHAFPSPRAXIS KOENIGSALLEE by Dusseldorf where he contributed to creating a method that uses the patient’s blood cells to produce proteins that accelerate the healing process. Knowledge that in 2002 transferred to a cream, loved by many stars, which she initially proposed only on request and for some special customers, because it was enriched by the blood of her patients, a formula that only later has adapted to a range of products that are based on the theory of inflammageing.

Barbara Sturm It is recently passed to Milan for a masterclass dedicated to its iconic Hyaluronic Serumwhat she herself calls “the white t-shirt of the skincare”, with an optimized concentration of hyaluronic acid molecules with different molecular weight, associated with a biofetermeatic complex of Portulaca Oleracea, with proven antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, and so I had the opportunity to make me clarify its famous philosophy for skin care.

What is the story of the Vampire Facial And how do you incorporate the PRP into the creams?
«The vampire favial, or prp (plasma rich in platelet), is a technique that I invented pushed by the desire to treat my skin: I had extremely dry and no products on the market worked. So I created my first cream, the MC1 Creamwhich contained moisturizing ingredients chosen with the help of my grandmother, who was a pharmacist. To this base I added anti -inflammatory proteins extracted from my own blood. It worked immediately. Later, I started creating similar formulas for my patients in the clinic – they were personalized medical treatments, not commercial products. But when the market started asking for effective products, I decided to use science to develop accessible formulas, maintaining an approach based on: anti -inflammatory, hydration, cell nutrition, activation of telomers and exosomes “.

What is meant by molecular skincarethe claim of its products?
“My background is in orthopedic science: I have collaborated for years with orthopedic surgeons and researchers to develop innovative treatments to accelerate healing in case of injuries. One in particular consisted in withdrawing the patient’s blood, processing it in a certain way and obtaining anti -inflammatory proteins – in particular Anti-Interleuchina 1 – which were then injected into the joints to reduce inflammation and slow down the aging process. Even then – we are talking about 25 years ago – I understood that inflammation and aging are closely connected. Working on a cell scale, I learned to interact with cells at the molecular level, that is, effectively and targetedly. It is from here that the concept of molecular skincare: cosmetic treatments that act directly on the cells to obtain real results ».

She was among the first to talk about exosomes, what are they and why are they so fashionable today?
«I have been working with exosomes for over fifteen years and I was the first to introduce them to the skincare about five years ago. At the beginning everyone thought I was crazy, now I’m everywhere. But many use plant exosomes, which they are of no use on human skin. The exosomes They are tiny vesicles, 1/800 large of a cell, the size of a virus. Unlike other molecules, they do not need receptors to enter the cells, for example if you take a vitamin B supplement so that the active ingredient is absorbed there is a need for a qualified receptor to welcome it. The exosomes penetrate directly and communicate with the cells by bringing mRNA And peptides capable of repairing tissues and reducing inflammation. They are like gods molecular paramedicsimagine a doctor who has keys and does not need to knock on to enter, for the skin they are extraordinary, also for autoimmune diseases and regeneration ».

Can you explain the difference between plant and human exosomes?
“The plant exosomes They only work … for plants. Our body does not recognize or use them, so it is pure marketing. It’s like using Sperm of salmon For human skin: useless and potentially harmful. The Effective exosomes for human skin They come from human stem cells (such as those of the umbilical cord) or can be produced using recombinant bacteria, it is what we do. It is a complex and scientific technology, which has nothing to do with vegetable surrogates. Exosomes reduce inflammation, repair and heal. Fifteen years ago we have already treated people with rheumatoid arthritis, injecting exosomes in the knuckles, and in all joints, and we were able to remove the pain for three months. They travel surprisingly through the body and have a healing function, they are also suitable for those with autoimmune disease, they can be injected into a phleb ».

Talk to us about your inflammation theories: why is it so important to prevent it?
“Chronic inflammation is the main cause of aging cutaneo (e non solo). Everything we don’t like about skin – wrinkles, spots, impurities – is connected to an inflammatory state. Here’s what I recommend to reduce it:
– Manage it stress (cortisol high increases inflammation)
– Follow one anti -inflammatory diet
– sleep well
– do daily physical exercise
– expose yourself to morning light or use a Red Light Bed
– Use only skincare anti -inflammatory (not aggressive)
– avoid ingredients that compromise the skin barrier.
I personally use the Red Light Bed every day for 20 minutes, but also a walk in the sun in the morning has a similar beneficial effect ».

What are the rules of anti-inflammaging for skin, diet and lifestyle?
«No stressbreathe deeply, sleep enough, care for the diet, without sugars, ultra processed, and which is rich in omega-3. Use Skincare Without alcohol, perfumes, mineral oils, retinol or strong acids. Avoid aggressive scrubs and chemical peeling. Prefer products with ingredients repairers and moisturizers Like those of my line: exosomes, telomerase, peptides, antioxidants. All my products are designed to be anti -inflammatory and based on science. Not only do they avoid causing damage, but actively reduce inflammationsupport the cellular functionimprove the And they slow down aging. We use tested ingredients that activate i telomerihydrate in depth, nourish and regenerate ».

She doesn’t like retinol, what will happen next year to this ingredient?
“It will not be totally prohibited, but . From 26 May 2026, the maximum concentrations allowed will be: 0.3% for face products rinsing or leave-on; 0.05% for body products. Il retinolo ad alte dosi è harmful: breaks the skin barrier, due to dehydration, increases sensitivity to the sun and accelerates aging. For me, it makes no sense to use it as an anti-aging. Finalmente se ne sono accorti».

What are the most aggressive ingredients to avoid in the skincare?
«Retinol, glycolic acid, strong chemical peeling, mineral oils, perfumes, alcohol in high concentration, hydrochinone. All the ingredients that generate inflammation and awareness “.

Is there a simple way to understand which products are inflammatory for the skin?
«An excellent indicator for not buying aggressive products is to see if they are allowed in pregnancy. It’s easy. Non bisogna ricordare tutti gli ingredienti. Whether they are for skin care, hair, soaps, many contain endocrine disturbers and interfere with the hormonal system causing a lot of damage to the body. That’s why my line also includes shampoo, shower gel, hand cleaner ».

How to encourage cell turnover without damaging the skin?
«The turnover can be stimulated without aggressionusing delicate enzymatic scrubs, non -abrasive exfoliating detergents, ingredients that favor the healthy cell division Telomerase. The retinol, on the contrary, damages healthy cells, dehydrated the skin and compromises its protection. It pushes the cells to divide into non -optimal conditions, thus accelerating aging. I prefer an approach based on repair, hydration and regeneration “.

What is the most proven theory of aging?
“The theory Telomeri antiageingwhich was tried by a study by Harward University which recognized the effect of the activation of the enzyme telomerase, by natural molecules, which act as anti-aging modulators. The limiting factor of life is the number of cell divisions, which is an indicator of the Lifespan of a cell, has nothing to do with the life of a human being’s life. The frequency of cell division depends on the type of cell. A turtle cell reaches 100 cell divisions and lives more than 200 years. Human beings have from 40 to 60 cell divisions. What is the limiting factor of life in this process of cellular divisions? Telomers. Those small DNA repetitive sequences that are found at the ends of the chromosomes and which protect it from degradation and merger with other chromosomes during cell division. Si accorciano ad ogni divisione e, quando diventano troppo corti, la cellula smette di dividersi o muore. It is the natural aging process. However, if theenzyme telomerase, A repairing of the telomers who realls them, prevents cells from aging or dying, travels the real road to the Age Reverse. But it is not enough, the skin cells must also be provided hydration and nourishment ».