The day ofDries Van Noten’s last show has arrived. After 38 years of career, the Antwerp designer officially said goodbye to the ready-to-wear catwalks on Saturday 22 June in Paris. He announced it last March that the Spring-Summer 2025 collection scheduled at Paris Fashion Week June would have been the last one that would have seen him in the role of creative director of the brand he founded almost 40 years ago and then, when the news came out, it didn’t seem like such a short time.
The final release on the Spring-Summer 2025 catwalk in Paris.
Richard Bord/Getty ImagesDries Van Noten’s latest fashion show was the perfect synthesis of forty years of creativity, without falling into celebration while remaining perfectly immersed in contemporaneity. A show that fits into the men’s fashion calendar, an area in which it debuted in 1991, only subsequently giving rise to the women’s collections. In front row for himand for his last farewell to the public, too Pierpaolo Piccioli, Thom Browne and Diane Von Furstenbergto give a measure of his talent but also of his man.

Dries Van Noten with Pierpaolo Piccioli backstage at the last fashion show in Paris.
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Cultured, elegant and reserved, far from the chatter of that fashion which has become more and more bar-like over the years (even if luxury bars), in perfect balance between minimalism and maximalism, but without ever going overboard. Dries Van Noten is and always has been the kind of talent who does what he loves to do and does it his way, creating and following its own rules even off the catwalks. The one who doesn’t need to chase celebs on the red carpet or fill the metropolises of half the world with billboard with maxi logos, but let your creations have their say. A creative who after a long and brilliant career decides to take a step back, to leave room for younger people, certainly remaining with one foot in the company he created, but giving others the opportunity to carry it forward.
For these reasons, and for many others – of a stylistic nature – which we reveal below, We will truly miss him. In fact, to be honest, we already feel it.
His floral prints are never banal

A look from the Spring-Summer 2023 women’s collection.
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A look from the Spring-Summer 2016 collection.
Kristy Sparow/Getty ImagesThey are not never simple flowers his: in the documentary Dries, released in 2017, through the story of the creative process that guides him in the creation of his collections, all of Dries Van Noten’s love for nature and for taking care of his garden emerges. A passion that takes shape in themed prints, created in a way
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A look from the Spring-Summer 2013 women’s collection.
Victor VIRGILE/Getty ImagesPatterns, from ethnic to optical

A look from the Spring-Summer 2019 men’s collection.
Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images
A look from the Autumn-Winter 2014 men’s collection.
Catwalking/Getty ImagesPassing through theanimalier. In addition to flowers, there is much more among the patterns loved by Dries Van Noten. Drawings opticalreferences ethnic never stolen but reinterpreted, still flowers but with an effect tapestry and references to the animal world, always in the right doses.

A look from the Spring-Summer 2020 women’s collection.
Richard Bord/Getty Images
A look from the Spring-Summer 2016 women’s collection.
Victor VIRGILE/Getty ImagesMaster layering

A look from the Spring-Summer 2016 women’s collection.
Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images
A look from the Autumn-Winter 2013 men’s collection.
Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty ImagesOne of the subjects in which he has always demonstrated masterful mastery is undoubtedly the layering, the art of layering and layering garments and fabrics with often different, sometimes contrasting, workmanship and heaviness, in terms of logical order or functionality as well as color or pattern.

A look from the Autumn-Winter 2024 collection.
Kristy Sparow/Getty ImagesBeyond gender (before it was a trend)

A look from the Autumn-Winter 2016 collection.
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A look from the Spring-Summer 2024 collection.
Peter White/Getty ImagesA large and fluid wardrobe, which reverses roles without parodies. The woman dresses and interprets masculine and rigorous forms – think of oversized coats and blazers with sculpted shoulders or ties to complete the shirt and tailored trousers combination – and man opens up to once unexpected decorations. Sequins, transparencies and embroidery they have been on the agenda for him too since before many people decreed it fashionable.

A look from the Spring-Summer 2006 collection.
FRANCOIS GUILLOT/Getty ImagesThe jewel element, which is never missing

A detail from the Autumn-Winter 2024 collection.
Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images
Dries Van Noten Spring-Summer 2024 women’s collection.
Victor VIRGILE/Getty ImagesIn Van Noten’s collections there is never a shortage of a necklace, an embroidery, a border capable of adding that extra particularity to a look. There is no collection without a precious elementdecorative, made with refinement even when rich and distinctive.

Close-up from the Autumn Winter 2008 women’s collection.
Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty ImagesSource: Vanity Fair

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