untitled design

Dries Van Noten’s last show and why we will miss him (very much).

The day ofDries Van Noten’s last show has arrived. After 38 years of career, the Antwerp designer officially said goodbye to the ready-to-wear catwalks on Saturday 22 June in Paris. He announced it last March that the Spring-Summer 2025 collection scheduled at Paris Fashion Week June would have been the last one that would have seen him in the role of creative director of the brand he founded almost 40 years ago and then, when the news came out, it didn’t seem like such a short time.

The final release on the Spring-Summer 2025 catwalk in Paris.

Richard Bord/Getty Images

Dries Van Noten’s latest fashion show was the perfect synthesis of forty years of creativity, without falling into celebration while remaining perfectly immersed in contemporaneity. A show that fits into the men’s fashion calendar, an area in which it debuted in 1991, only subsequently giving rise to the women’s collections. In front row for himand for his last farewell to the public, too Pierpaolo Piccioli, Thom Browne and Diane Von Furstenbergto give a measure of his talent but also of his man.

Dries Van Noten Pierpaolo Piccioli Paris

Dries Van Noten with Pierpaolo Piccioli backstage at the last fashion show in Paris.

WWD/Getty Images

To stay updated on royals, celebrities, shows and all the news from the world Vanity Fairsubscribe to ours newsletter.

Cultured, elegant and reserved, far from the chatter of that fashion which has become more and more bar-like over the years (even if luxury bars), in perfect balance between minimalism and maximalism, but without ever going overboard. Dries Van Noten is and always has been the kind of talent who does what he loves to do and does it his way, creating and following its own rules even off the catwalks. The one who doesn’t need to chase celebs on the red carpet or fill the metropolises of half the world with billboard with maxi logos, but let your creations have their say. A creative who after a long and brilliant career decides to take a step back, to leave room for younger people, certainly remaining with one foot in the company he created, but giving others the opportunity to carry it forward.

For these reasons, and for many others – of a stylistic nature – which we reveal below, We will truly miss him. In fact, to be honest, we already feel it.

His floral prints are never banal

Dries Van Noten springsummer 2023

A look from the Spring-Summer 2023 women’s collection.

Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images

Dries Van Noten 2016 fashion show

A look from the Spring-Summer 2016 collection.

Kristy Sparow/Getty Images

They are not never simple flowers his: in the documentary Dries, released in 2017, through the story of the creative process that guides him in the creation of his collections, all of Dries Van Noten’s love for nature and for taking care of his garden emerges. A passion that takes shape in themed prints, created in a way

Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2013 fashion show

A look from the Spring-Summer 2013 women’s collection.

Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images

Patterns, from ethnic to optical

Dries Van Noten SpringSummer 2019

A look from the Spring-Summer 2019 men’s collection.

Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images

Dries Van Noten FW 2019

A look from the Autumn-Winter 2014 men’s collection.

Catwalking/Getty Images

Passing through theanimalier. In addition to flowers, there is much more among the patterns loved by Dries Van Noten. Drawings opticalreferences ethnic never stolen but reinterpreted, still flowers but with an effect tapestry and references to the animal world, always in the right doses.

Dries Van Noten SpringSummer 2020

A look from the Spring-Summer 2020 women’s collection.

Richard Bord/Getty Images

Dries Van Noten SS 2016

A look from the Spring-Summer 2016 women’s collection.

Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images

Master layering

Dries Van Noten 2016

A look from the Spring-Summer 2016 women’s collection.

Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images

Dries Van Noten 2013

A look from the Autumn-Winter 2013 men’s collection.

Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images

One of the subjects in which he has always demonstrated masterful mastery is undoubtedly the layering, the art of layering and layering garments and fabrics with often different, sometimes contrasting, workmanship and heaviness, in terms of logical order or functionality as well as color or pattern.

Dries Van Noten FW 2024 fashion show

A look from the Autumn-Winter 2024 collection.

Kristy Sparow/Getty Images

Beyond gender (before it was a trend)

Dries Van Noten FW 2016 fashion show

A look from the Autumn-Winter 2016 collection.

Catwalking/Getty Images

Dries Van Noten 2024

A look from the Spring-Summer 2024 collection.

Peter White/Getty Images

A large and fluid wardrobe, which reverses roles without parodies. The woman dresses and interprets masculine and rigorous forms – think of oversized coats and blazers with sculpted shoulders or ties to complete the shirt and tailored trousers combination – and man opens up to once unexpected decorations. Sequins, transparencies and embroidery they have been on the agenda for him too since before many people decreed it fashionable.

Dries Van Noten SpringSummer 2006

A look from the Spring-Summer 2006 collection.

FRANCOIS GUILLOT/Getty Images

The jewel element, which is never missing

Dries Van Noten AutumnWinter 2024

A detail from the Autumn-Winter 2024 collection.

Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images

Dries Van Noten SS 2024

Dries Van Noten Spring-Summer 2024 women’s collection.

Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images

In Van Noten’s collections there is never a shortage of a necklace, an embroidery, a border capable of adding that extra particularity to a look. There is no collection without a precious elementdecorative, made with refinement even when rich and distinctive.

Dries Van Noten Autumn Winter 2008

Close-up from the Autumn Winter 2008 women’s collection.

Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images

Source: Vanity Fair

You may also like

Get the latest

Stay Informed: Get the Latest Updates and Insights

 

Most popular