English countryside: trip to Northamptonshire, close and beautiful

Let’s admit it without shame: we are all left shocked by the beauty and eccentricity of those characters and their wonderful mansion and therefore, really, there is no need to conceal the fact that we all would have liked to be there, immersed in the decadent and flamboyant of that sumptuous manor in the English countryside, kissed by an August sun that did so much Call me by your name in British style even if, judging from the dramatic outcome with which the events evolved, perhaps it was better that the story was, well, little more than an exercise in style to be adored as some have done, or to be criticized as others did (the latter perhaps missed the fact that the aforementioned story should not be taken very seriously, but only savored in sips: it doesn’t matter).

We are talking, of course, about Saltburn. The latest film effort by director and actress Emerald Fennell (Camilla Parker Bowles in The Crown) was embellished both by the magnetic interpretations of Barry Keoghan And Rosamund Pike and, perhaps above all, from stunning location in which most of the events unfolded: Saltburn, in fact, the stage name chosen for the Drayton Housea country house in the English county of Northamptonshire, never seen on screens before the film’s release.

One of Saltburn’s most iconic scenes. At the moment, Drayton House can only be photographed from the outside but it is not excluded that, after the success of the film, the owners, the Stopford Sackville family, will decide to open it to the public

This is why lovers of the genre, including the writer, literally jumped on their seats. The question we all asked ourselves was: Where does this villa come from now? If in the case of Downton Abbeyjust to cite one example, the location – theHighclere Castlein Hampshire – was known to enthusiasts even before appearing on TV, the discovery of an unprecedented jewel like the Drayton House was a destabilizing surprise. The credit goes to the director who, not surprisingly, said: «My only condition was to find a place that had never been seen before and in England it can be very difficult. When you look for country villas in this country to shoot a film in, you find either large bohemian houses that have fallen into total ruin or hotels. What is extremely rare is finding a house that a family has lived in consistently and which has all the characteristics of a family home – we were very lucky to find Drayton House.”

In Saltburn’s two-plus hours, the manor was shown in its entirety baroque opulence: walnut furniture, marble busts, painted ceilings, tapestries, frescoed walls, bookcases full of books. The eccentricity of the plot has added further charm to the large villa which however – unfortunately – cannot yet be visited inside. It matters little: this place is just the starting point for a trip – by car, in a single day – in search of some of the most particular attractions of Northamptonshire.

Lady Diana is buried in a tomb monument on an islet in the center of a pond in the gardens of Althorp House

Lady Diana is buried in a tomb-monument on an islet in the center of a pond in the gardens of Althorp House

Barry King

The Discovery of Northamptonshire

When we talk about the English countryside, there can be many geographical and literary references. There is the windy and melancholy moor of the Yorkshireimmortalized by Emily Brontë in Wuthering Heights; there are the lonely hills of Gloucestershire; the most academic and touristic ones of theOxfordshire; the novel ones of Wiltshirewhere numerous scenes from the saga were filmed Harry Potter. In short, there is countryside and countryside. The one in Northamptonshire, however, is there English countryside, the territory chosen by the rich Londoners of the past for the construction of villas far from the traffic of the city (far away so to speak: Northamptonshire is an hour and a half by car from the capital, the same distance covered by the most New Yorkers wealthy to reach second homes in the Hamptons, on the eastern end of Long Island). In short, it is here, in the “ceremonial county” of Northamptonshire – whose motto, Rosa Concordia Signum recalls the times in which battles took place in these areas and truces were stipulated between knights – all gentle slopes, little rivers and brick villas with slate roofs, which contain some of the most fascinating views and monument-houses in England.

Starting from Drayton House and driving south, the first place you can stop is the village of Stoke Bruernewhose flat banks overlook the Grand Union Canal – the main waterway between London and the Midlands – drawing what the Ordnance Survey Guide to the Waterways (Nicholson) defines it as «the best example of a canal-facing village in the entire nation». In Stoke Bruerne visit the Blisworth Tunnel, the second longest navigable tunnel in Great Britain, discover the Canal Museum and enjoy some good pudding while savoring an Earl Gray at the Museum’s Waterside Cafe.

A glimpse of Stoke Bruerne, a placid village overlooking the Grand Union Canal, the long artificial water canal that...

A glimpse of Stoke Bruerne, a placid village overlooking the Grand Union Canal, the long artificial water canal that connects London to Birmingham

5GirlsMum

Coasting Northamptonthe county seat, head north a little to reach the Althorp Housethe family home of Lady Diana Spencerwhich today rests on a small island near the property. The villa – inhabited for over half a century by the Spencer dynasty, who purchased the land after having accumulated great wealth as sheep breeders – was recently open to tourist visits. The brother of the late Princess of Wales, Earl Charles Spencer, made the announcement last year, writing on his Instagram account: «We are open to the public! Visit Althorp House until 31 August 2023. On display is one of Europe’s finest private collections of furniture, paintings and ceramics – every intriguing room in this magnificent family home has its own fascinating story.”

While waiting for the reopening of the gates of Althorp House this spring, some properties spread over the 5,665 hectares of the estate have for a few months been used as luxurious residences for tourist accommodation. On the website of Elysian Estatesan exclusive equivalent of Airbnb, explains to potential guests that, in the Spencers’ ancestral home, “you will be able to walk in the footsteps of Kings and Queens, celebrate in a spectacular setting, marvel at the works of art and sleep in luxury.” Prices are not specified but that’s okay: there’s really no point dwelling on these superfluous details.

A classic glimpse of the English countryside, quiet rivers, stone houses and lots of nature

A classic glimpse of the English countryside: quiet rivers, stone houses and lots of nature

Andy Roland

Continuing to drive north, after passing through villages literally crystallized in the times of King Arthur, you reach the enigmatic Kirby Halla country residence formerly owned by Sir Christopher Hatton, Lord Chancellor of Queen Elizabeth I. Used as a filming location of Mansfield Park And A Christmas Carol (the version produced by Ealing Studios), today the estate and its gardens, owned by Earl of Winchilseaare in a state of semi-abandonment. Which makes them, in some ways, even more fascinating: once on site, you can visit a small museum, take a tour of the remains of the Elizabethan house and gardens, where – among urns and vines of English roses – lives a family of peacocks who, who would have thought, like be photographed.

What remains of Kirby Hall, one of the most beautiful Elizabethan homes in England

What remains of Kirby Hall, one of the most beautiful Elizabethan homes in England

GTMedia

At this point, at Corby’s level, a choice must be made. If you choose to head west, after a tiring half hour spent holding the steering wheel straight on winding streets not even classified by Google, you will reach the Edgcote Houseon the River Cherwell. Built between 1747 and 1752 for the London merchant Richard Chauncey, the house, the nearby church and the rectory are embalmed in a centuries-old isolation punctuated only by the croaking of a few frogs in the nearby pond and by the wind that moves the branches of the oak trees. Since your visit will not be announced and it is not so obvious that the current owners, the Allen family, will let you in for five o’clock tea, if you fancy a hot drink, get back in the car, enter neighboring Warwickshire and reach Stratford-upon-Avonthe hometown of William Shakespeare. Do you still have energy? Visit the Bard’s house. Otherwise you can head to the Farmer’s Market Rother Street and finally sit at the tables of one of the bars overlooking the market.

The BBC used Edgcote in its 1995 television adaptation of Jane Austen's Pride and Prejudice

The BBC used Edgcote in its 1995 television adaptation of Pride and Prejudice by Jane Austen

Mark Meredith

If the idea of ​​not being greeted by pariahs in Edgcote House has inspired you to head east, then continue on to the wonderful, little-known Lyveden New Bield. Commissioned by Sir Thomas Tresham, a fervent Catholic who lived at the time of Queen Elizabeth I, this residence was never completed after her death in 1605. The National Trust, of which the property is part, explains: «The persecution religious, betrayal and debt meant that Tresham’s dream was never realized; However, the unfinished lodge and surrounding gardens now represent a poignant example of a man who defended his beliefs in perilous times, through an act of quiet and creative rebellion.”

Lyveden New Bield is just as it was when it was abandoned four centuries ago, a roofless building with no windows and...

Lyveden New Bield is identical to when it was abandoned four centuries ago: a building without a roof, without windows and without floors. The unfinished house was donated to the National Trust in 1922; only in the 1990s, however, did the heritage conservation organization active in England, Wales and Northern Ireland begin a gradual process aimed at promoting the tourist value of what remains of the property

Graham Custance Photography

You will be a little tired, of course, but this journey to discover Northamptonshire is not over yet. If, after heading east, you continue driving for another half hour you will reach Oundlea small village nestling along the banks of the River Nene. Born as a merchant town, Oundle is famous in the area for its Georgian streets and the imposing limestone buildings that house hotels (if, after a long day, you want to spend a night in the city, choose to sleep at the The Talbot), independent shops and restaurants run by a lively community, worthy heirs of their merchant ancestors. Of course, the glories of Drayton House seem very far away from here. But at least, in this delightful English village unknown to the general public, you will be able to say… still be alive.

One of the most beautiful views of Oundle. In 2021 the village was included in the list of ten English destinations not...

One of the most beautiful views of Oundle. In 2021, the village was listed in the list of ten non-touristy English destinations to visit.

GordonBellPhotography

Source: Vanity Fair

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