Face skincare, let’s debunk the false myths

Since 2020, when the pandemic spread globally, it shows no signs of slowing. Till today the rise of skincare is continuous and constant. So much so that it influenced the make-up sector, in trouble during the lockdowns, which, in order to survive, changed the DNA by getting closer and closer to the properties of skin care products, while on TikTok skinfluencers, superstars of skin care, exploded. leather that take hold also in Italy. In short, the skin and its well-being they are at the center of media, social and domestic attention, but we don’t always take care of them in the right way, given that many of us are victims of beliefs erroneously handed down from mother to daughter that we have become convinced of over time. Don’t panic: cosmetologist Marilisa Franchina aka La Beautycologa che comes to the rescue in the book Skincare – Truth and False Myths (Red! Edizioni) unmasks the urban legends surrounding the sphere of leather. For example, forget that silicones suffocate the skin. In shock?

Then read on because with the expert we have prepared one dand catalog of false myths and skincare beliefs to be studied carefully. Ready to retrace your steps and definitely save your skin?

1. You have to let the skin breathe. False

“This statement suggests that the skin breathes. But instead it does not breathe, we are certainly not amphibians. What actually happens is that the most superficial layer (between 0.25 and 0.4 mm) absorbs oxygen from the air by direct diffusion, a bit like when we wet a sponge or fabric with water, and not from the pores of the skin or from the capillaries, which are found deeper. But for this to happen it is not necessary that the skin is in direct contact with the air and, therefore, with the oxygen it contains, because the latter can pass easily through the layer formed by a cream. It must also be taken into account that this oxygen exchange has such a low value as to contribute to the total respiration of man in a negligible way.

2. Silicones suffocate the skin. False

“We often hear that it is better to avoid products that contain silicones because they suffocate the skin but absolutely not: being occlusive substances, they create a film that prevents the evaporation of the water contained in the skin itself and for this reason they help it to maintain its natural hydration. They also do not clog the pores leading to impurities and pimples and are inert and therefore very safe, they do not interact with the skin and, therefore, are tolerated even by the most sensitive ones. They are not biodegradable, it is true, but many of them are degradable or, due to UV rays, they disintegrate in the environment into water, carbon dioxide and silicon. Finally, they do not derive, as is believed, from oil, but from silicon, one of the most abundant minerals on our planet, which makes up sand and glass ».

3. Natural ingredients are safer. False

«Normally natural ingredients are contrasted with chemical ones, without thinking that in reality everything is chemical. The difference should be made between substances of natural origin and those of synthesis, that is synthesized that is recreated in the laboratory. Do you think that this allows us to recreate molecules identical to the natural ones (defined natural identical) in a more sustainable way, without, for example, having to kill animals. The extraction of some substances from plants can also involve the use of solvents that are not very environmentally friendly therefore, in these cases, synthetic molecules represent the most sustainable choice “.

4. Parabens are carcinogenic. False

Parabens are undoubtedly among the most hated preservatives, due to scientific research on breast cancer which, even by admission of the same researchers, had major gaps. Parabens are mildly estrogenic, that’s true, but less so than soy and oral contraceptives. By the way, they have been in use for a long time and have always been considered safe. Although they have almost disappeared from the cosmetic world, they are still widely used in the pharmacological and food fields, sectors where they have strangely aroused little interest. At the doses with which they are used they are safe for health and without a shadow of a doubt they have been studied and cause less allergies than most of the preservatives with which they are replaced today “.

5. SLES and SLS should be avoided because they are too aggressive. False

Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) and sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) are surfactants widely used in the production of detergents, shower gels and shampoos. Safe for cosmetic use, they are very degreasing and therefore could cause irritation, especially SLS. To obviate this drawback, they are accompanied by less effective surfactants and therefore less washing in order to sweeten the formula. Thanks to these measures, it is even possible to formulate products for sensitive skin that contain them. For this reason it makes no sense to look for their presence on the label to avoid those certain products, it is better instead to read the instructions for use of that product to see if they are in line with our needs: for example if that cosmetic is formulated. for sensitive or delicate skin ».

6. The skin gets used to a cosmetic. False

“It’s not true. The skin is constantly renewed within a month, the time of what is defined “cell turnover“. Thus, the cells that come into contact with cosmetic products are renewed and are always different. At the most it is the needs of our skin that change, and for this reason that cosmetic that was good before seems to stop working. So, if you feel comfortable with a product, continue to use it for as long as you want, but if, for example, at the change of season you feel your cream too much, or on the contrary too little, rich, in that case it is good. delay your skincare. The change of season is not the only factor that can influence the needs of our skin, there are also the use of drugs, hormonal disruptions, incorrect and massive exposure to the sun, the wind… ».

7. Products that contain comedogenic ingredients should be avoided. False

On the net there are many lists of comedogenic ingredients, which however refer to old scientific researches, conducted not on human skin but on rabbit ears, which were subsequently taken up and disavowed by the researchers themselves. The truth is that this type of sensitivity is very subjective and also depends on the formulation of the product. To find out if a cosmetic is comedogenic for you, you have to try it; Also, be aware that the same ingredient that may have caused you to have pimples and blemishes within a different cosmetic formula will not necessarily do so. There are tests on the non-comedogenicity of a product that can give us an indication in this regard, but not a mathematical certainty “.

8. Those with sensitive skin should avoid perfumes. False

«Another category that is fairly mistreated is that of perfumes included in cosmetic formulas, which are scary because they contain allergenic substances. The truth is that fortunately there are few people allergic to perfumes and the world of perfumery has created many fragrances that do not contain allergens and therefore more difficult to cause sensitization or allergies. It is therefore no coincidence that there are cosmetics, dermatologically tested on sensitive skin, which also contain perfumes. The fact is that perfumes make cosmetics pleasant to use, and a cosmetic can only prove its effectiveness if we apply it consistently, which a good smell helps us to do ».

9. Better to use preservative-free cosmetics. False

«Another big trend is represented by products without preservatives. The main task of these substances is to keep cosmetics safe by slowing or stopping bacterial growth within them. All products that contain water must be preserved, because water is life, even for microorganisms. If the manufacturer declares that a cosmetic is free of preservatives, it is because in that formula this function is performed by other substances not listed as preservatives by the European Regulation on cosmetics. The products that really may not contain preservatives are those without water (anhydrous) such as butters, oils and powders; however, in some cases the formulators also insert preservatives in these formulas because with normal use they could be contaminated by water (for example, you can choose to wet an eyeshadow to change its coverage or writing) ».

10. Alcohol is bad for the skin. False

«In cosmetics, alcohol is used to improve the penetration of active ingredients, to solubilize some ingredients, to obtain a refreshing effect or to lighten a formula. Its flaw is that at high concentrations it dehydrates the skin, therefore it is not suitable for those with dry and sensitive skin. On the other hand, it is enough to balance this temporary dehydration with a moisturizer to lessen its effect. Don’t take a bad look at a cosmetic just because it contains alcohol, but evaluate that formula as a whole: if the item alcohol appears towards the bottom of the ingredients list, it is very unlikely that it will dry out the skin. Fatty alcohols, on the other hand, despite their name, are chemically different from classic alcohol. They are, in fact, emulsifiers and emollients. I will name a few so that you can recognize them: cetearyl alcohol, lanolin alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristil alcohol, lauryl alcohol ».

And, since spring has arrived and with it the desire for positivity, for energy that also translates into a skin that wants to come out, lose the gray layer it experienced during the winter and express a great charge of radiance , in the gallery a selection of products for a perfect Spring skincare by day and night.

Other Vanity Fair stories that may interest you:

-Gold, the precious ingredient that illuminates the skin
– World Water Day 2022, a source of liquid beauty to be preserved
-Tell me what type of skin you have and I’ll tell you which face mask to use