Focaccia barese: the original recipe that gives great satisfaction

Focaccia barese was discussed in depth recently at the Ego Festival in Taranto – an important annual event dedicated to Apulian cuisine created by Monica Caradonna – which in the 2024 edition was compared with the softer, taller and more leavened focaccia from Laterza. The one from Bari, which also includes semolina in the dough, is in fact «thin, crunchy on the bottom and with a pleasant, slightly burnt flavour along the edges“, as explained by the gastronome, journalist and scholar of historical cuisine, a true Barese, Sandro Romano. That on the correct way to eat it – strictly hot and with the hands, folding the slice in half – suggests the “prayer position” – in Naples it is called “with open thighs” and is used to drink lemonade with bicarbonate – that is, standing, with legs apart and the torso leaning forward. Simply to avoid getting dirty with the rich sauce that is created in the oven based on cherry tomatoes, oregano and oil, strictly local extra virgin, which not by chance accumulates near the numerous bakeries in the area. The focaccia from Bari includes few ingredients – flour, semolina, yeast, cherry tomatoes, olives and seasonings – and it is notoriously delicious. So much so that it emerged victorious, five years ago at the Fico Eataly World in Bologna, even in the challenge with the famous and highly appreciated escape Liguria, finally judged best by the jury of one hundred experts. And since it is a product of excellence of the territory, its Consortium has long since started the procedures to obtain the IGP awardsthat is, Protected Geographical Indication, which should arrive soon. «Once upon a time, before the Second World War, housewives prepared it, and even today it can be made at home», explains the president John DeSarioowner of two bakeries in Bari and a third in Valenzano, who also often gives lessons on the correct way to prepare it, «strictly with a single leavening». And it is he who explains the official recipe of the Consortium of the Bari focaccia in detail.

The recipe for the real focaccia from Bari

Ingredients for 4 people: 300 g of soft wheat flour type “0”; 200 g of re-milled durum wheat semolina; 100 g of boiled potatoes; 16 g of fresh brewer’s yeast (even better 200 g of mother yeast); 10 g of salt; 50 ml of extra virgin olive oil; 300/350 ml of water; 400 g of cherry or bunch tomatoes. For seasoning: 20 Bari olives in brine, EVO oil to taste, salt, oregano.

Procedure: put the flour and semolina in a bowl, add the mashed potato, salt and yeast dissolved in a little warm water. Add a little more water, knead until you get a certain consistency; then add the oil and knead again until you get a smooth and elastic mixture to which you can give a spherical shape. Leave to rise at room temperature in a container covered with cling film for an hour or two (at least 12 in the case of sourdough). Grease the pan with EVO oil, place the ball of dough on it – if the upper side is a little dry just turn it over – and start pressing with your fingertips without ever pulling it, until the entire pan is covered. Season with the cherry tomatoes cut in half, then with EVO oil, oregano and salt. Bake immediately at maximum power, in a static oven, for about 15-20 minutes. The focaccia from Bari must be crispy on the sides and thin (a maximum of one and a half centimetres thick).

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