Five years ago, the French chef Marc Veyrat faced the prestigious Michelin Guide in court after a negative review of a controversial soufflé, and lost. Now he has launched a new attack on the “bible of haute cuisine” by banning inspectors from visiting his new restaurant.
Veyrat’s new venture, the Le Restaurant Marc Veyrat was opened in a ski resort, in the French commune Megève, and has a menu of 450 euros (around R$2,831) per person. It is the first project since he faced Michelin in 2019, when the guide downgraded his restaurant La Maison des Bois from three to two stars.
“I even put a notice on the door,” he tells CNN Travel . “I’m going to be 75 this year. I don’t want to be evaluated anymore.”
At the time, outraged, Veyrat sued the guide, demanding the removal of the restaurant’s listing, an explanation for the downgrade and a symbolic payment of one euro. He lost the case and had to pay the legal costs.
According to a Michelin inspector, the decision was made because the restaurant would have used cheddar in its soufflé. Veyrat argued that he used local cheeses, such as Reblochon and Beaufort, and that the yellowish color was caused by a touch of saffron in the recipe. “They are incompetent,” the chef insists to this day.
After relegation, La Maison des Bois located in the French Alps, was taken over by Veyrat’s daughter, who renamed the place as Le Hameau de mon Père (“My father’s village”) in honor of the chef. “I’m very proud of her,” he says. “It’s a magical place.”
The new restaurant in Megève arose from Veyrat’s longing for cooking, although he seeks to avoid the pressure characteristic of Michelin reviews. “It’s the joy of welcoming people” that motivated him to start again, he says.
Even so, there is no guarantee that Michelin will respect the ban . Inspectors can appear anonymously, as has happened with other chefs who have tried to leave the guide, including the South Korean chef Eo Yun-gwon in 2019.
Diners who shell out for an eight-course menu at Veyrat’s restaurant also have the opportunity to meet him in person. With his iconic wide-brimmed black hat, he became a celebrity. “I don’t say this out of ego, but I’m part of the experience,” he jokes.
“The price of freedom”
Despite the high prices Veyrat guarantees that his new restaurant does not generate profits. He just wants to balance the books and pay the team good salaries. Financial independence comes from other businesses, and the clash with Michelin did not affect his career.
Veyrat isn’t the only chef to criticize the guide. Many complain about the intense pressure before the annual publication and prefer to stay out. In 2017, chef Sébastien Bras asked for his restaurant to be removed from the guide, calling the decision “the price of freedom”. Two years later, Michelin included it again, without warning.
Another example is Frédéric Ménager which rejects being evaluated. “The only stars that matter are the ones that shine in customers’ eyes when they leave delighted,” he says.
Even so, Michelin remains relevant in France with 639 restaurants listed in the 2024 edition.
New horizons
Despite having left behind his days under the rigors of Michelin, Veyrat remains full of energy, something he attributes to his wife Christine, who runs the new restaurant alongside him. “She is incredible. It never stops,” he praises.
Veyrat takes over the kitchen from Thursday to Saturday, offering what he calls “high-definition cuisine” using local aromatic herbs. On Sundays, Christine prepares her own menu, for 220 euros (around R$1,384) per person, revisiting old traditions and cooking over an open fire, which, according to her, enriches the flavors.
Even newly opened, the restaurant is already a success according to Veyrat, who also plans to write a book and lead a campaign against ultra-processed foods. “I don’t have time to grow old,” he concludes.
The post French chef bans Michelin Guide inspectors from new restaurant appeared first on CNN Brasil V&G.
Source: CNN Brasil
Johanna Foster is an expert opinion writer with over 7 years of experience. She has a reputation for delivering insightful and thought-provoking articles on a variety of subjects. Her work can be found on some of the top online news websites, and she is currently lending her voice to the world stock market.
