I’m sure that when someone thinks of Uruguay, they think of barbecue, wine or empanadas. But would you think about bread? Well, now you can think. The bread does part of Uruguay’s history and is present in practically every meal in the country.
However, until recently, what was seen in the vast majority of bakeries were “bizcochos and invoices”, variations of cookies and of puff pastry in addition to white breads produced with biological yeast.
The Brazilian baker Juliana Pedro owner of Albertine Pany y Cafe, in Colônia del Sacramento, says that starting to produce long fermentation breads in Uruguay was much more complex than she imagined.
Domestic flour does not have the strength for this type of fermentation, and imported quality flour for baking was even rarer five years ago.
After much searching, she found some small local producers of good organic grains, but productivity was low and, often, they ended up being discontinued due to the complexity of the business.
Another obstacle Juliana faced was the taste of the colonienses, who prefer brioches or the delicious cheese bread produced there. But, little by little, it has been gaining local clientele.
This perception about a more traditional audience is also shared by Gastón Rosselló Martul partner of the Brava bakery and the recently opened Wild Bakery. Gastón comes from a family with experience in the industry, which owns a bakery in Montevideo, Nueva Malvin, which has remained faithful to the Uruguayan style for almost 80 years.
While Nueva Malvin is gradually being modernized, Gastón’s other businesses were born looking at a new generation of tuned-in Uruguayans with what is happening in the world of gastronomy. If Brava has gone up a notch in quality, Wild Bakery is even more cosmopolitan and audacious.
Heading east, a region that receives many tourists and foreign residents, the baker José Acosta supplies cafés and restaurants in the Maldonado region with exquisite medialunas and naturally fermented breads.
These names are not alone, but are part of a silent and delicious revolution taking place in the world of bread in Uruguay. Here I selected some options in Montevideo for those who want to explore these new features.
See bakery options to visit in Montevideo:
Brave
Opened in early 2022, the Brave It has three stores, one of which is at Carrasco Airport. So, if you are leaving and were unable to visit Montevideo, you can make that last stop near the airport arrivals area.
In Punta Carretas, where another bakery unit is located, there are few tables to sit at, but the window is always filled with classic Uruguayan items revamped with excellence. Alfajor comes in different versions, even with vegan options.
Among the natural fermentation breads, there is country bread, rye bread, a brioche with a toasted crust and soft crumb and a baguette with beautiful cells. But Unbeatable is the medialuna with ham and cheese ; of sweet dough, the generous portion will make anyone sigh.
Following the proposal of quality artisanal products, local fruit jellies, pâtés, olives, Silente dulce de leche and wines from small producers can also be purchased there.
Brave: Carrasco Airport — Ruta Interbalnearia Gral. Líber Seregni, km 19/ Opening hours: daily, from 7am to 7pm.
Punta Carretas — José Ellauri 1116, Montevideo/ Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday, from 8am to 8pm.
Parque Rodo — Pablo de Maria, 1018/ Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, from 8am to 8pm; Sunday, from 9am to 6pm.
Wild Bakery
The youngest in the class, the Wild Bakery it also has the hand of Gastón Rosselló Martul, from Brava — you can see the medialuna, which is equally delicious.
But, if Brava follows the traditional approach, in the Wild window, the puff pastry can have kimchi or caramelized banana with dulce de leche on top; the croissant can be stuffed with pulled pork; palmita, a thinner bow-shaped dough, can be filled with ham and cheese, with ají on top, giving it a sweet and sour touch.
The house doesn’t live on puff pastries alone. Sandwiches on long fermentation bread or tostex, such as chicken with kimchi, can also be ordered to take away or to eat there on the very few seats outside the store.
Does the meal end up being improvised in some corner? Yes, but it’s so worth it! To accompany it, there is coffee from Forajida, one of the main specialty coffee roasters located in Piriápolis.
Wild Bakery: Luis Franzini 882, Montevideo/ Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, 8am to 7pm.
Urban Bakery Federation
Opened in December 2019 and created by a group of friends dedicated to baking and confectionery, Urban Bakery Federation It quickly won over the local public with its proposal for naturally fermented breads and artisanal products.
It is one of the good options that opens daily in Ciudad Vieja and is open from breakfast until late afternoon. It’s an excellent stop for those who are strolling through the center and want a more informal meal.
Tostadas, sandwiches on a baguette, croissant or tostex — all with bread produced in-house — can have classic fillings, such as milanese with coleslaw, roasted tomato and cucumber pickles or falafel with criolla salsa and roasted pepper mayonnaise. The location is also perfect for brunch .
Want to stretch your meal? Just ask for the tea for two a complete menu that includes sandwiches, tostada, puff breads, drinks, cake and alfajor. The challenge is to continue the tour after such a boosted meal.
The bakery also engages in cultural activities, hosting exhibitions and artistic events in its space.
Urban Bakery Federation: Juan Carlos Gómez 1435, Ciudad Vieja, Montevideo/ Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, 9am to 7pm.
Atelier Gusto Casero
There are many other famous places I could talk about, such as La Resistance Boulangerie, Paulo Boulangerie, Atelier Casa de Pan or Club del Pan, which certainly deserve to be on this list. However, the Atelier Gusto Caseiro It’s one of those places that touches the heart.
The care and whimsy of the sisters Jose and Vicky Bo caught my attention. Although the physical store is just over 2 years old, Vicky has been working in the bakery and confectionery business for over a decade. From the age of 15, with the help of her grandfather, she delivered breakfast trays.
At the store counter, you will find everything from delicate confectionery to breads ranging from the most traditional to rare options in Uruguay, such as a delicious bagel with seeds, which can be stuffed with raw jamón and arugula, smoked salmon and cream cheese. There is also a vegetarian version, with roasted peppers, hummus and arugula. The cinnamon roll is also an excellent option and has a cheese version.
Vicky balances the traditional Uruguayan palate while gradually introducing new recipes and flavors.
The store only offers take-away service, without tables to sit at, but as it is close to Parque Rodó and serves coffee to go, how about improvising a picnic?
Atelier Gusto Casero: Gonzalo Ramírez 2225, Montevideo/ Opening hours: Tuesday to Saturday from 10am to 7pm
*The texts published by Insiders and Columnists do not necessarily reflect the opinion of CNN Viagem & Gastronomia.
About Giuliana Nogueira
Giuliana Nogueira is Brazilian, a psychologist, photographer and communications advisor. She is neither a winemaker nor a sommelierè, but she is an oenophile, especially passionate about Uruguayan wines and Uruguay. Maintain Instagram @Instatannattalking more about Uruguayan wines than the Uruguayans themselves. Whenever he can, he travels to the land of our neighbors, who know how to welcome people very well.
The post From breakfast to brunch: 4 places with delicious bread in Montevideo appeared first on CNN Brasil V&G.
Source: CNN Brasil
Johanna Foster is an expert opinion writer with over 7 years of experience. She has a reputation for delivering insightful and thought-provoking articles on a variety of subjects. Her work can be found on some of the top online news websites, and she is currently lending her voice to the world stock market.
