From Japanese straightening to straightening with Brazilian keratin, all treatments for straight hair

From the sixties of the last century to today, straight hair has come a long way: from the very long locks free to the wind of the flower daughters of the hippie movement to those of stainless Cher, to the straight and shiny hair of Naomi Campbell, Demi Moore, Gwyneth Paltrow, Jennifer Aniston, Kim Kardashian… Over the years many actresses and models have succumbed to their flawless and perfectly light-reflecting forehand charm.

If they do not have a perfect aplomb by nature, their maintenance creates a sort of addiction, with the obsessive search for the right treatment that keeps them in order “once and for all” which can put their well-being to a severe test.

To “straighten” the stem, the professionals’ menu in the salon is full of targeted techniques with different names. In general, they are based on similar protocols although there are some formulation differences. It should be noted that only chemical straightening treatments perfect liss they modify the structure of the hair making it straight, while those that do not involve the use of these substances create sheaths around the shaft that give nourishment, increase the compactness of the covering cuticles and are essentially anti-frizz that simplify styling.

Chemical ironing

It is a procedure that (as in the procedure that creates curls) breaks the sulfur bridges, the bonds that unite the keratin filaments making up the stem, which are then re-compacted through a cocktail of chemical agents and the passage of a plate. It gives a permanent result because it modifies the structure of the stem and, with regrowth, its true nature reappears. It should only be performed by an experienced hairdresser. «Before opting for drastic and radical changes, it is always advisable to evaluate that they must then be repeated, becoming a sort of slavery. We always suggest a moderate and partial approach, intervening on a fringe or on some locks, so that each intervention harmonizes with the cut and shape of the face “, specifies Lucia Bossi, technical manager Aldo Coppola. The cost ranges from 100 euros upwards.

Japanese ironing

Also called the Yuko method (from the name of the hairstylist who developed it in the 1990s), it has the same mechanism of action as the previous treatment and is based on the application of a mixture based on soy and sulfur proteins that is made to adhere to the hair. Through a protocol that involves the use of a ceramic plate, this substance modifies the sulfur bridges that join the keratin structures. The duration of the shutter speed determines a smooth or super smooth result. Also in this case, it is necessary to intervene on the regrowth to maintain the result. Requires the hand of an experienced practitioner. It costs from 300 euros.

Keratin treatments and the smoothing Brazilian

«They have constantly evolving formulas, and have the aim of keeping frizzy hair under control and smoothing it in a semi-permanent way», says Monica Cicorello, Soco Professional Technical Manager. “In both cases the hair is subjected to a procedure, which involves the use of a plate, which fixes the keratin protein molecules on the shaft associated with organic acids such as lactic, glycolic and citric which they do not break the sulphide bridges“. They always act on the surface. «These services are highly appreciated because in addition to offering lengths that are easy to manage, they govern the hair structure without permanently modifying it, leaving it soft and silky», underlines Maurizio Sassi, technical manager of z.one concept. The result has a variable duration from 3 to 4 months with costs starting from 120 euros for the first and 300 euros for the second. In these cases, the very important thing to do before undergoing this kind of treatments is to check that the ingredients do not contain formaldehyde (the level allowed by law is below 0.2%), aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, formalin or methylene This step should not be overlooked because sometimes the hairstylists themselves are unaware of the presence of these substances.

The novelty: the vegan treatment with retinol

It is called Vegan Retinol Treatment and is a system developed by Remember Ecosostenible which gives compactness to the protective cuticles, smooths and gives light to the hair using only ingredients of vegetable origin. «An alternative to the more widespread semi-permanent methods, I consider it a revolutionary system that draws on the vegetable universe. It allows to give texture to the shaft, eliminate frizz and maintain a smooth, vital and luminous appearance for up to 4 months », explains Federico Fascella, Lit Milano hairstylist and Schwarzkopf Professional Ambassador. It exploits the property of retinol to regulate the synthesis of keratin to heal and strengthen associated with aloe vera and macadamia which are activated by bakuchiol with antioxidant and regenerating properties. It does not give a flat effect and, depending on the shutter speed, allows to obtain a more or less flat smoothing. It lasts up to 6 months and costs from 150 euros.

How to prolong the results

After a straightening treatment, the treatments must be accurate and precise because the treatment subjects the stem to stress. “In general, for maintenance it is recommended to use cosmetics free of parabens, sulphates and low chloride content to avoid depleting the hydrolipidic film and preserving the integrity of the lengthsFascella explains.

«The most important moment concerns cleansing: to retain hydration, the shampoo with an acid pH level that prevents the cuticles from lifting », emphasizes Cicorello.

“Lining cuticles stay adherent longer using the conditioner, which seals them. In addition, this product allows the stem to maintain nourishment and hydration “, adds Maurizio Sassi.

“There are pre-styling and finishing products that allow you to loosen the waves and keep frizz under control: they make the capillary mass more manageable, which becomes more malleable and resistant to creasing with a brush and hairdryer”, says Lucia Bossi. These are serums and milks to be absorbed on the lengths, starting from the roots to the tips to recompact the protective cuticles, before drying. Finally, for a shine finish, go ahead with evanescent oils rich in precious active ingredients such as omega 6 and 9, which smooth the cuticles and give a mirror-like result.

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