Paternpatterns, materials and textures they are certainly peculiarities that make them unmistakable and highly desirable bags and accessories produced by the biggest fashion houses. A model like the trunk Speedy by Louis Vuitton has become recognizable at first glance – as well as for the history it brings with it – too thanks to the material and designbe it composed of the iconic ones LV rather than chess Damierwhich characterizes it. With him many other models that we observe around us every day: models that are often recognizable even by touchbecause they are characterized by processes that not only influence taste on a visual level, but which can be felt by hand.
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Textures like the Saffiano of Prada or the Caviar of Chanel have gone down in history through intuitions which, as you will discover in a few lines, perfectly blend functional needs (for example that of improving the durability of materials or making them less susceptible to scratches and breakages) and creativity. A creativity that has become an unmistakable sign, desired, widely imitated, but still unique in its kind.
We’ll tell you about it below some of the materials, gods patterns and of textures who have made the history of fashion over the years and which, still today, many love to wear. Maybe you too…
1. Louis Vuitton: Canvas Monogram
Detail of a Louis Vuitton trunk with Monogram canvas.
Chesnot/Getty ImagesLet’s start by talking about an unmistakable material, the fabric used for classic bags Monogramlike the iconic Speedy. While the handles and finishes are in leather, the material that mainly makes up these accessories is canvasa commonly used word meaning canvas in English, treated in a particular way precisely on the intuition of the founder Louis Vuitton. When at the beginning, back in 1854, it was involved in the production of travel trunks, Vuitton wanted to find an alternative to leather, which on this type of accessory was easily subject to wear. He thought of treating the canvas with a flour-based glue – originally a neutral and delicate gray color – which proved to be excellent for giving thickness and toughness to his luggage, as well as ensuring its waterproofness. Since 1959 the same effect, which we know today in fantasies Monogram And Damier (which we will see shortly), is obtained by covering a cotton and polyester fiber canvas with a film based on pvc.
The symbols that appear on this very famous canvas they were introduced in 1896 by Georges Vuittonson of Louis, to make it difficult to counterfeit their products. On a brown background appear the founder’s initials, LV, a diamond (the symbol that resembles a rhombus), a flower and a circle containing a flower with four petals. Today it is also found in the always in versions canvas but in colour, like the one revisited by the artist Takashi Murakami, in denim, leather or patent leather.
2. Louis Vuitton: Canvas Damier

Detail of a Louis Vuitton trunk in Damier canvas.
Chesnot/Getty ImagesWe name it as second, after the Monogrambut This patterns checkered is the first-born from the Louis Vuitton house. A little while ago we talked about the origin of canvas in a neutral gray shade, a solution that unfortunately proved to be too sensitive to counterfeiting. To counteract this phenomenon, Louis Vuitton first introduced a contrasting light and dark brown striped pattern and subsequently, in 1886, a checkered variant imprinted with the writing «Marque L. Vuitton deposée» call Damier. The solution did not help to combat the copies and led to the birth of Monogram (which even today, when fakeis clearly distinguishable) and the disappearance of this checkered pattern, brought to light in 1996.
3. Louis Vuitton: Cuir Epi

Close-up on a Louis Vuitton Alma bag in Cuir Epi.
Edward Berthelot/Getty ImagesWe stay at Vuitton to talk about one of the most chic processes of the Maison, the skin Cuir Epi. Relatively recent as it was introduced only in the 1980s, it is a process carried out on real leather to give it a finish more rigid, resistant to water and possible scratches. It stands out for its surface with a slightly wavy striped pattern, which feels delicate to the touch.
4. Goyard: Goyardine

A Goyard journal with Goyardine cover.
South China Morning Post/Getty ImagesWhen it comes to canvas we cannot fail to mention the other great luxury brand famous for its use and its unmistakable motif optical. Let’s talk about Goyard, maison founded in 1853 in Paris – yes, a year before Vuitton – known worldwide for the pattern Goyardine. Created in 1892 by Edmond Goyard but baptized like this only 90 years ago, it features the alternating letters Y and dots that recall the long-standing profession practiced by the Goyard ancestors, who worked in the field of river transport using wooden rafts. What has always made the creations and this design so exclusive has been the production method: until the early 2000s each bag was hand painted.
5. Prada: Saffiano

Close-up on a Prada Galleria bag in Saffiano leather.
Jeremy Moeller/Getty ImagesSaffiano it is the name of a type of leather patented in 1913 by Mario Prada, founder of the brand of the same name and grandfather of Miuccia Prada. Used for many of the brand’s accessories, it is slightly rough to the touch and stands out to the eye for a surface that appears regularly scratched as it is made up of small lines that cross diagonally. It is obtained by treating the calfskin through a particular process that includes hot pressing and finishing with the use of wax, so as to make this water, wear and scratch resistant material.
6. Chanel: Caviar

Close-up on a Chanel bag made with Caviar leather.
Edward Berthelot/Getty ImagesThe skin caviar is synonymous with Chanel and is a type of textured calfskin characterized by a visible grain, which recalls the appearance of caviar or rice grains (it is in fact also called rice grain). It is a more rigid material both in appearance and consistency, it resists use better and shows less signs of it, allowing an accessory to last better over time, but it is more subject to color transfer than smooth leathers. For example a bag in caviar of a light colour, in contact with blue jeans which tend to discharge the pigment, it could take on bluish shades.
7. Gucci: Very Gucci
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Close-up on a Guccissima leather bag from the first decade of the 2000s.
Aaron Davidson/Getty ImagesFrom the logo printed on canvas seen above, to the embossed logo. The skin Very Gucci by Gucci was a revolution in the world of accessories: it represents a way of treating the logo, composed of the unmistakable GG and already used on canvases and fabrics, in a sophisticated way, almost with a see-through effect. The name used in the 2000s has recently been replaced by the wording GG Emblem or simply GG and the patterns it has been revisited and also proposed in a larger and less dense version.
8. Burberry: Check

Burberry’s check pattern on a bag and outerwear.
A fantasy that goes beyond the pure world of bags and is in fact more of a graphic touch than a textures or a process, it is The check by Burberry which we still feel like including in our list for reasons of recognisability and prestige. A motif that has decorated the linings of the brand’s coats since the 1920s, it acquired the role it holds today almost by chance in 1967, when an employee of the Burberry boutique in Paris, while preparing a fashion demonstration for the British ambassador, decided to remove the lining from a coat and use it to line suitcases and to create an umbrella case. It is useless to specify that it was, and still is today, a success.
9. Dior: Oblique
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A Dior tote bag with an Oblique motif.
Daniel Zuchnik/Getty ImagesAnother long-standing and traditional pattern is theOblique by Christian Dior. Designed in 1967 by the then creative director Marc Bohan, it features the Dior logo embroidered following, as the name suggests, an oblique pattern. Relaunched and exalted by John Galliano in the early 2000s, it has returned to being noticed in recent years, with the new versions proposed by Maria Grazia Chiuri which, in some models, superimpose a horizontal stripe with maxi lettering of the brand.
10. Bottega Veneta: Braided

A Bottega Veneta bag from the Autumn-Winter 2020/2021 fashion show.
Pietro D’Aprano/Getty ImagesDesign that arises not for technical purposes but for a factor of taste is theBraided by Bottega Venetaan iconic motif born together with the brand, founded in Vicenza in 1966 by Michele Taddei and Renzo Zengiaro. From the beginning, this characteristic leather weaving design, reminiscent of woven straw, has been made by hand, usually by two people, who follow a precise diagonal pattern to compose a real fabric. In terms of procedure and final appearance, devoid of distinctive logos, this motif has always enjoyed great prestige and even today, revisited on the catwalk in terms of colors and dimensions, it remains synonymous with refined elegance.
Source: Vanity Fair

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