The first news of the Gambero Rosso Restaurants Guide of Italy is the return to normality, in the sense that not only the scores of the premises are reviewed, without prejudice to the classification in forks, globes, bottles, casseroles – one, two or three depending on the degree of excellence – but the prizes were awarded in presence at the Rome Marriott Park Hotel of the capital. It is not a small thing, considering what happened last year, starting from the streaming ceremony but also from the difficulties of an accurate evaluation as in past editions. This year has been better, from the end of May the restaurants have reopened (and it was a great season) but – perhaps also to exorcise fears – the symbols of delivery and take away have remained on the cards of the places that continue to do so. In any case, the guide director, Laura Mantovano, it is positive. «The obstacles are not lacking, starting from the difficulty of finding specialized personnel. But with real teamwork and the indispensable complicity of the institutions, catering can once again be a driving force for all Italian agri-food. And to return, as it is due to history, culture and technology, on the roof of the world “, he explains. That said, the 2022 edition is not without changes within the categories, starting with Three Forks. There are 41: three more than the 2021 edition, but the news (or returns) are four because for the renovation of the Park Hyatt Milan, Andrea Aprea left the Vun to build a new venue.
There has been the return of two restaurants in Rome: theIdylio by Francesco Apreda – The Pantheon Iconic Rome Hotel and the tried and tested La Torre wine shop in Villa Laetitia. Then here it is Dani House, in Ischia, where one of the best cooks in the South, Nino Di Costanzo, works. The fourth new entry – certainly the most original of the group – is represented by Andreina, in Loreto: Errico Recanati has conquered the good living room of critics and is attracting enthusiasts for a kitchen where fire is the fundamental element. There is no dish, from amuse bouche to dessert that does not undergo at least one passage to the flame. For the record, he also won the special prize for bread at the table. Once the scores are back, Gambero Rosso confirms – as in the 2020 edition – that it is the best restaurant in Italy Real in Castel di Sangro (AQ) with 96 cents ahead of theOsteria Francescana of Modena and to Pergola of the Hotel Rome Cavalieri, both at 95 cents. Translated, it means a podium composed respectively of Niko Romito, Massimo Bottura and Heinz Beck. For the first time, there is a small list of Two Red Forks with the greatest potential to join the elite: Piccolo Lago in Verbania (VB), Casa Perbellini in Verona, Antica Osteria Cera in Campagna Lupia (VE), Arnolfo in Colle Val d’Elsa (SI) and Signum in Salina (ME).
Next to the podium, but certainly, in a position (almost) equal in terms of notoriety Carlo Cracco: he was awarded the prestigious as Restaurateur of the year, by virtue of the excellent time of Cracco in the Galleria (for Gambero Rosso it is the best venue in Milan), of the new offices (on the Naviglio and Portofino) and also of the television success of the Dinner Club program. To another ace of our restaurant , Mauro Uliassi, the award for the Menu of the Year: the fantastic Lab 2021, obviously in his restaurant in Senigallia (AN). Curiously, the award for the best Italian dining room ended just 7 km to the south, at the Madonnina del Pescatore of the lifelong friend-rival Moreno Cedroni. Among the liveliest categories, there is that of ethnic restaurants: Casa Ramen Super left the scene, here they conquered Tre Mappamondi The bad habit e Gong Oriental Attitude in Milan. The novelty of the year is From the Mona Lisa, in Gabicce Mare (PU), led by Davide Di Fabio, ex-right arm of Massimo Bottura, and created by the Bizzari family.
The special prizes are interesting. The one for the emerging cook in memory of Alessandro Narducci went to Luigi Salomone of King Saints and Lions in Nola (NA). The number one sommelier has been working at Reale – for sixteen years, by the way – and he is from Puglia Gianni Sinesi while the success of Piazza Duomo in Alba (CN) as the best restaurant as a proposal for wines by the glass. And still the pastry chef of the year is Tommaso Foglia who takes care of the desserts of the famous Don Alfonso 1890 and of the San Barbato Resort Spa & Golf in Lavello. The award for innovation in the kitchen he went to also convinced us this: r, Eugenio Boer’s Milanese restaurant who is very good at making it starting from very strong regional and classic roots. When creativity is not just technique and exercise of style but gastronomic culture and respect for the past it becomes more innovative than any new idea. An important sign.
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