The last hours, the last days, the last weeks, the last month: between the fashion shows in New York and then those in London, the frenzy of the fashion system was consumed in “waiting for”. Not really Gucci and not just Gucci, but really and only him: Sabato De Sarno. And today, at third day of Milan Fashion Weeka new page of history is officially written: Saturday De Sarnoappointed new creative director of the Florentine fashion house last January, he debuted on the catwalk with his first collection at the helm of Gucci, Spring-Summer 2024 which marks a clear split between before and after. Gucci after the Alessandro Michele era. Gucci now, or rather: Gucci again.
The rumors of the last few hours have found official confirmation: after seven years, the Roman designer’s chapter at the helm of Gucci comes to an end. He remains credited with having made the Italian brand the most desired on a global scale
«Again»: six letters and a teaser with growing emotion. A few days after the fashion show, Gucci had already plastered the facades of historic and modern buildings in major international cities with the new advertising campaign. Milan, Chengdu, London, Paris, Bangkok, Rome, New York. And it was that “anchor” that marked the chimes of the clock until today, until 3 pm on this September 22, 2023, when the wait is over and Sabato De Sarno showed the world the new face of the brand founded in 1921 by Guccio Gucci. Set to music by Mark Ronson (Music Director of the Gucci fashion show and already known for having also set music BarbieGreta Gerwig’s recent hit film), the parade saw among the guest stars in the front row also Julia Roberts, Ryan Gosling, Julia Garner and Mark Fosterand ended on the notes of Again, again, again of Mina.
Minimalism (with what a glittering exception) and heritage are the two concepts that emerge from the collection, an invitation from Sabato De Sarno to fall in love with fashion and Gucci again. The lines are clean, the iconic monogram is repeated all-over on the little black dresses and shorts. Then there they are the precious details: crystals, fringes, emblematic elements, all in perfect balance between glamor and sophistication, urban style and elegance.
The sweatshirt is worn with vinyl-effect shorts or with a knee-length skirt with a slit. The #braless trend is rampant, unless it’s about brassières studded with very bright gems, to be worn strictly on sight. The leather jackets boast utility details, such as zippers and metal piping. The fringes, on the skirts and outerwear, shine. Just as the lapels of bomber jackets shine.
There is no shortage of references to the Gucci archive: the very short jumpsuit refers to the monogram and the palette colors of the brand, the historic red and green ribbon is emphasized to the point of becoming a striped print. Also the call to sexuality by Tom Ford – who was creative director of Gucci from 1994 to 2004 – is tangible in the blazers worn with shorts and in the slip dresses with lace details. The loafers with the unique and distinctive Gucci horsebit, a strong reference to the equestrian soul of the maison, stand on chunky wedges.
The bags are those preceded by the fame of their own name: the Ophelia model and of course the timeless Jackie, both reinterpreted according to the vision of Sabato De Sarno. Finally, the jewels: all looks are accessorised with the new Marina Chain linewhich the brand had already presented before the fashion show with the advertising campaign featuring Daria Werbowy.
“Gucci is the opportunity to fall in love with fashion again”, the designer originally from Cicciano, in the province of Naples, former right-hand man of Pierpaolo Piccioli in Valentino (who was sitting in the front row applauding him). The Spring-Summer 2024 fashion collection show kept the promise made, a promise that speaks of love above all, just as he talks about it – as a love letter to the city of Milan – Gucci Perspectives n.1the first of a long series of volumes that will be published together with the Gucci collections.
Let’s warm up our engines: with 62 fashion shows and 176 events in total, Milan Fashion Week confirms itself as the absolutely most unmissable event for professionals. But what to keep an eye on? Here are the 12 highlights to monitor, starting with Sabato De Sarno’s debut at Gucci
Love, fashion and art thus met on the catwalk in Milangiving shape to the concept “yet”, a word that – as the designer revealed in an exclusive interview given to Vogue a few days after his debut – he even got a tattoo on his left arm when the fashion house chose him for the role. «Ancora means many things – explained Sabato De Sarno in the same interview – it means “again”, but it also is [un concetto] very personal; it’s not something you’ve lost, it’s something you still have, but you always want more because it makes you happy.”
Something that he has carried with him and within himself since that day when he encountered his love for fashion and for Gucci for the first time, in a Roman boutique of the brand, when the creative director was Tom Ford. He bought a velvet jacket by selling a necklace that his parents had given him: he kept this detail in the dark. But that day, without him knowing it yet, destiny was already written. He and Gucci would meet again. They would meet again.
Source: Vanity Fair
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