After the fashion shows and presentations dedicated to men’s fashion in June, the most spectacular and highly creative fashion week of the year arrives: that of Haute Couture of Paris.
Thanks to a sunny Ville Lumière which, in itself, makes you dream with its romantic timeless views, from the Marais to the Palais de Tokyo, the French fashion houses – and not only – give life to their most sophisticated, eccentric, surreal creations. And it is precisely starting from this last attribute that the high fashion week was inaugurated, with the Autumn / Winter 2022-23 collection by Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli. Surrealism is an essential leitmotiv of the heritage carried on by the fashion house, since the beginning with Elsa Schiaparelli. A retrospective, currently open to visitors, is dedicated to her at Musée des Arts Décoratifswhere the fashion show was presented: a journey from the 1930s to today, which sees within it not only dreamlike suggestions, such as the reference to the dress Bureau Drawer that the founder created with Salvador Dalì in 1936, but also tributes to other designers such as Christian Lacroix – in the voluminous satins, as well as in the velvet chokers and maxi hats – and works of various kinds, including flowers inspired by the book A Passion for Flowers by Caroline Roehm.
On the edge of surrealism, in more ethereal declinations, the experimentation of Iris Van Herpen between defying gravity and intricate 3D printed details. For her latest collection – which celebrates the maison’s first 15 years – the Dutch designer drew inspiration from three myths of ancient Greece: Daphne and Apollo, Arachne and Narcissus. Suspended between organic and futuristic, his creations have given life to real stories on the catwalk, in which stories and symbols are mixed between references to the animal, plant, floral and celestial world. All this, with a renewed attention to sustainability: a garment above all, the bodice in biodegradable fabric from banana leaves.
After the Resort 2023 fashion show a few weeks ago, Maria Grazia Chiuri has returned to propose her personal vision of folklore and tradition through the historical and aesthetic lens of Dior: this time, the artistic director of the Parisian maison has developed her collection starting from a work of the Ukrainian artist Olesia Trofymenko, depicting the tree of life, painted and then embroidered. An archetype that unites different cultures, religions and traditions, to which Dior paid homage through a unique and original sublimation of folk costumes from conceptual bases to real action, collaborating with the Ukrainian artist for the embroideries of the collection.
Also Virginie Viard, for the latest Haute Couture show by Chanel, has immersed herself in the archives of the maison and in its rich references, giving life to a collection that develops on different historical and stylistic tracks: the first, important clue, is the rare change of location for the fashion show, no longer the omnipresent Grand Palais, but the Étrier de Paris, in the Bois de Boulogne. For the second time in fact, Chanel invited Xavier Veilhan to curate the set of the show, mixing virtual and physical spaces. To be particularly recurrent, in the creations on the catwalk, is instead the aesthetics of the 1930s and in particular the garments designed by Mademoiselle Chanel in that decade, recalled through rounded shoulders, geometric patterns, ankle-length dresses. A return to the past, with inevitable contemporary ideas, also confirmed by the jewels that appeared on the catwalk, borrowed from the 1932 Haute Joaillerie collection, perfectly in harmony with the lace evening dresses. Yet another tribute to the history of the maison, but also to the equestrian dimension that often, over the decades, has returned to peep out, as in the previous Haute Couture Spring / Summer 2022 fashion show, opened by Charlotte Casiraghi.
In the gallery below these and other Haute Couture shows in Paris, with pop and vitaminic elegance by Giambattista Valli to the floral opulence of Rahul Mishra.
– Chiara Ferragni in the front row of Alexandre Vauthier (and all the stars at the Couture fashion shows)
– Dior Cruise 2023, the fashion show in Seville in 5 key points
– Twenty looks from the Men’s Spring / Summer 2023 fashion shows that are also perfect for her
Source: Vanity Fair