Renewable and organically derived materials are the protagonists of an exponentially growing market in the fashion industry: in particular, there is a wide interest in alternatives to traditional leather, typically made with animal skins such as cow and goat. The latter in fact brings with it ethical questions that are increasingly relevant, as well as focusing attention on the problem of deforestation and of emissions of greenhouse gases associate to the breeding of livestock. Furthermore, the treatment of animal skin, known as tanning, often uses dangerous chemicals that can have a considerable impact on nature.
And here it is fashion, where the sector vegan there is more and more space – together with consumer awareness – expands its offer of vegetable skins, made from natural raw materials such as cactus, prickly pear, pineapple and … mushrooms. A material that, both for its aesthetics and for its performance in terms of resistance, has conquered even one of the greats of handcrafted luxury: Hermes.
Compared to alternatives to animal skin made of polyurethane (PU) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) polymers, in fact, the fungal skin is totally biodegradable, representing one of the best substitutes both in terms of sustainability and cost. Hermès has closely followed the innovative development of this material natural, announcing on the weekend that his travel bag Victoria it will be reproduced with a mushroom-based skin substitute: the luxury fashion house has collaborated with MycoWorks, a San Francisco-based startup that has found a way to transform a “web of threads from the root structure of mushrooms – into a material that mimics the properties of leather.” An alternative that is not totally new to fashion: brands like Stella McCartney, Gucci and GmbH have already tested the leather substitutes, of course. But what is striking, compared to this news from Hermès, is the fact that a brand so tied to its artisan tradition is – fortunately – willing to expand its range of products, however elitist.
The collaboration with MycoWorks will not replace the brand’s use of animal materials – including expensive exotic leathers – but, without a doubt, it is a great sign from none other than one of the iconic houses of international luxury. To celebrate this first ethical and sustainable goal, PETA even sent Hermès a large bottle of champagne vegan choccie. Meanwhile, for those interested in buying the new bag Victoria in fungal leather, we will have to wait until the end of 2022. However, in the meantime, many other vegan innovations could emerge… like mushrooms.
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