How it is and where you can buy the real artisan nougat

If you don’t like nougat it’s because you’ve probably never tasted a really good one. Nougat is the Christmas dessert with the most concise list of ingredients in the world: hazelnuts, egg white, honey and sugar. Or at least, it should, because industrial imitations actually contain something else, and end up being so sweet, sticky, or rock hard that dieticians and dentists worry alike. However, the real artisan nougat exists and there are still pastry shops or small family businesses that produce it “as it once was”, or better still.

THE NOUGAT OF THE LANGHE
Torrone is a sweet spread throughout Italy, from North to South, and we went to taste it in the homeland of the famous hazelnut Tonda Gentile Trilobata IGP, considered by many to be the best in the world – so much so that it made the fortune of the most important companies of Alba. Right here in the most suitable area, one of the most prestigious confectionery companies of the Langhe was born, not an ancient one but strongly desired by the Ceretto family, a surname that here is synonymous with wine and the soul of the transformation of the territory that has made Alba what it is today. The Cerettos are an institution because for generations they have invested heavily in the territory, starting with wine and arriving at the collaboration with artists and designers who have brought their works to the area and made Alba an international crossroads. Part of this mission for beauty and goodness is Relanghe, the family confectionery company, and obviously the spearhead: Piazza Duomo restaurant in Alba, who, thanks to the partnership established with the chef Enrico Crippa, 3 Michelin stars. They make nougat with the usual mission: excellence above all.

HOW DO YOU RECOGNIZE A HIGH QUALITY NOUGAT
In Italy the production of nougat is not codified by a specification, such as that of panettone for example, so each company is free to produce this dessert as it sees fit. To check the value of what you buy, you must therefore rely on reading the labels and choosing a high-level producer. A high quality nougat must have the first ingredient dried fruit, hazelnuts (or almonds, in other areas of Italy), for at least half of the weight, then honey and finally sugar and egg white: it is evident how the excellence of these few raw materials is synonymous with quality. There are no (even if widely used by industry or in poorly made products) ingredients such as glucose syrup, flavorings, thickeners or gelling agents, he starches are present only in the host that covers it. For crumbly nougat, quality is measured under the teeth: they must sink easily. The nougat must be Crisp but not hard, brittle, and must break with a clear fracture, without crumbling. At sight the hazelnut must be evenly distributed, there must be no empty, thin or soft areas.

HAZELNUTS FIRST OF ALL: THE “RELANGHE METHOD”
The Ceretto family have applied the methods already used for their excellent vineyards to the cultivation of the Tonda Gentile Trilobata PGI hazelnuts: if a good wine is made in the vineyard, a good nougat is made in the countryside, in the hazelnut groves. Only organic farming therefore and control of the entire supply chain, consisting of owned hazelnut groves and certified local growers Piedmont IGP hazelnuts, to ensure the right balance between taste, production, protection of the environment and the territory. This hazelnut stands out from other varieties, national and foreign, for its shape, flavor andhigh oil content, which makes it particularly tasty, rich in taste and nutritional values, which has the advantage of going rancid in much longer times than the others but which must be treated with extreme care. This is why the Relanghe selection is rigorous and many of the steps remain done by hand, first of all the roasting, a critical moment of processing in which you risk ruining the intrinsic characteristics of the hazelnuts: the roasting temperature is calibrated here precisely based on the size of the hazelnuts. hazelnuts and the use of the finished product. The result of the work is a delicate but unmistakable hazelnut, with an intense aroma.

THE PRODUCTION ENTRUSTED TO THE TORRONIERE
The preparation of the nougat begins with the cooking of a mixture of honey and sugar in a steam boiler for six hours in which the egg whites are added, nothing else. The mass is continuously stirred, taking in air and becoming the typical white color. At the end, the previously roasted hazelnuts are added, which must be half the final weight. The mixture is then compacted on a bench and then placed in wooden molds, by hand. The most important step is the hand pressing of the still hot mixture, in wooden molds. It is not all a question of ingredients, however, but of manual skills and the credit for the result goes to the work of the nougat, theskilled craftsman able to model by hand correctly the nougat so that it has all the characteristics of a high quality product. After cooling, the nougat is portioned and packaged quickly to ensure its fragrance over time. Are you curious? Their nougat, in different forms, is on sale in the online shop and in the best wine bars and shops, together with the Relanghe hazelnuts.

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