Hyaluronic acid is the star of moisturizers

We probably already use it, but we don’t know: many happen to find it in the ingredient list of the moisturizer they use every day. Yet, since it was discovered in the 1970s, hyaluronic acid has been one of the most used skincare components. And now he is having a particularly happy time as he returns to the fore as the star agent of entire skincare lines. «The reason is simple: compared to other elements that have not managed to keep their promises over time, this one gives concrete results. The research continues, or today its characteristics and potential are better known, “he explains Fabrizio Zago, industrial chemist and Ecolabel consultant. And, in fact, many have noticed that it works, de is also present in the beauty routines of many celebs. One for all: Kim Kardashian he stated, as he reports people.com, “I love trying out new beauty and skincare products, but there are some that I will never give up. They work well together and I really see the results! ” Among them attracts attention Hyaluronic Serum from Dr. Barbara Sturm: a rich serum that provides intensive hydration, to be used before your usual cream, morning and evening. Let’s find out why it is so valuable to the point of being considered the Holy grail smooth and radiant skin.

BECAUSE IT IS IMPORTANT

The body naturally and continuously produces, consumes and synthesizes hyaluronic acid (HA), which is mainly present in the skin tissues as well as in the eyes and joints. Starting from the age of 25/30 this production gradually begins to decrease, so the skin starts a process that compromises its ability to retain water. Preserving the skin’s water balance by applying specialties containing this substance not only prevents dryness and dryness, but is also useful for preventing the signs of aging, including wrinkles and couperose, and to improve skin brightness and radiance. “With its surprising ability to associate up to 70-80 water molecules, it helps the latter to bind to collagen: by trapping it, it creates a swelling that makes the skin appear more” plump “and soft, with furrows and lines that are less evident, ”he explains the cosmetologist Umberto Borellini. «It also has the characteristic of being excellent for all skin types: it is not irritating, it does not cause acne or rosacea or allergic skin reactions. Hyaluronic acid is an essential anti-aging agent, its crucial function is to retain moisture in the tissues: the more there is, the better the skin looks ». “Today it is mainly produced by bacterial bio-fermentation starting from sugars of vegetable origin. In the past it was obtained from cockscombs. At a certain point it was realized that the risk of allergy due to the animal proteins contained was quite high, and the possibility of the transfer of pathogens to humans could not be completely excluded. Thus began to spread that made bio-technologically with the fermentation of particular bacteria »recalls the chemist.

THE MOLECULAR WEIGHTS

Choosing the right hyaluronic acid product can be tricky. “The functionality of this substance depends on its molecular weight, or rather on the size of the molecule which is indicated by the term molecular weight”, underlines Borellini. «When it is low it can penetrate into the deeper layers, exerting a restorative and regenerating activity. If it is high, it essentially exerts a filming and protective function that counteracts the evaporation of water from the surface layers. The medium weight is somewhere in between the first two. The ideal formula should contain both the one broken into micro-fragments, and therefore with greater penetration capacity, and the one with a less refined reduction, which creates a sort of butterfly retina that retains nourishment ».

THE INJECTABLE VERSIONS

When it comes to fillers, the absolute protagonist is still hyaluronic acid. “Used as a filler, it has an almost evanescent consistency and is bonded to a gel support that holds it in place where it is injected: once in place, it attracts water to regenerate the volume and give structure to the skin structure”, explains Juri Tassinari, specialist in reconstructive and aesthetic plastic surgery in Bologna. The consistency of the substance being inoculated is variable. In fact, it can contain the three forms of the active ingredient (low, medium and high molecular weight) and have different consistencies, more or less soft, and the choice of greater or lesser fluidity depends on the areas to be treated. “Depending on the size of the molecules and how they are put together, they vary in density, lifting capacity and longevity,” adds the expert. The most common applications concern the augmentation of the cheeks and the redefinition of the shape and volume of the lips. Plus, it plumps sunken areas, smoothes fine lines, and reduces shadows. It slowly dissolves over the course of a year. It is also used to mitigate the protuberances and the shape of the nose or to solve various problems of the feet. To the last World Congress of Aesthetic Medicine held in Montecarlo in September, a treatment was presented aimed at relieving the sagging affecting the arms and abdomen: it is called Profhilo Body from Ibsa Derma, and takes advantage of the infiltrations of a particular mixture of hyaluronic acid, with low and high molecular weight to redensify the tissues.

Finally, it should be remembered that these are “touch ups” which are not suitable for everyone and are not entirely free of unwanted effects, and experts tend to avoid them in the case of pregnancy and in cases of ongoing skin infections. The most important thing to remember when you want to undergo injectable treatment is to rely on a qualified dermatologist, cosmetic doctor or plastic surgeon with demonstrable experience. “Injectable substances are not without risks: they can be injected too superficially or, in rare cases, into a blood vessel”, underlines Tassinari. Furthermore, a casual use of this substance can produce unwanted volumes. In these cases there is the antidote: hyaluronidase. «It is an enzyme that degrades excesses by dissolving them, but it must be used with skill and following certain protocols, the prerogative only of those who have gained experience. Also not to be underestimated is the use of poor quality preparations, which once reabsorbed leave waste materials that the body is unable to eliminate as a “legacy”.