TO Monza one goes there to take a stroll in the famous Park, perhaps for Formula 1, someone to visit the Iron Crown and the renovated Cathedral. Then, however, to eat, to have fun, to taste the “right” aperitif, one goes straight to the Gran Milano. And it’s not entirely wrong: the choice is certainly wider. But – well – anyone who knows Monza knows that now there is a new innovative venue which competes well with the coolest addresses of the moment and which, for once, takes the opposite route: going from Milan to Monza.
Is called The Circle** **and it’s in the center, next to the courthouse, right where the famous once was Anita Garibaldi Club, a little bar that everyone knew, where they played cards, with a small space outside that gave it added value. A simple place to stop and have a chat.
Today, despite the name that recalls its origin, that place has definitely changed its appearance. It is a place open all day, from 8 to midnight, from breakfast to after dinner, with a dinner in between to be remembered. All with a skilful direction: from the property (including Mario and Stefano Colombofather and son, the Colmars who involved their entrepreneur friend Federico Grasso), to the famous bartender Philip Sisti who takes care of the drink list, up to the kitchen entrusted to the expert hands of Lorenzo Sacchiunder the supervision of the starred chef Claudius Sadler. As if to say, nothing improvised. A truly Formula 1 team.
The cocktails here called «Sciüra», «Bauscia», «Baloss», «Barlafüs» and so on, rattling off true Lombard names, have tastes never tried elsewhere. An example above all the «Meneghino»: white bitter rouge + Riserva Carlo Alberto white vermouth + orange and saffron cordial + ginger prosecco + (master touch) Campari sorbet. The mix, created by Philip Sisti, it’s certainly not a copy/paste: either you taste it here or you can’t find it elsewhere. And it’s worth it. Spoiler: unfortunately, after the last wonderful sip, it is useless to wait for the big ice cube to melt to hope that that cocktail never ends, because magically that ice remains intact and will never melt!
Already during the aperitif you can have the first tastes of the dinner to come: from the croquettes to the Bikini toast of jamon ibérico Montesano, mozzarella and truffles.
They are the first bites of what the chef Lorenzo Sacchiborn in 1988, will later propose: a real 360-degree tour of the tastes of the world, from the lunanega of Monza to the Chinese hoisin sauce, including oysters, paté and red curry, with obvious forays into Spanish cuisine, which Lorenzo knows well since he has worked many years in Barcelona with maestro Martin Berasategui, the most starred chef in Spain, and he took with him Juan José Sanzhis sous chef, as well as Maria Sainzhis life partner and responsible for the impeccable dining room service.
From the beginning of the dinner, which opens with a Nuvola di Negroni, to the end, which closes with a casket of surprising sweet morsels, the dishes are surprising.
terrine of celeriac and grana padano sauce reserve 24 months
Jacopo SalviThe environment, well-kept, has an antique feel, with references to the Thirties, gold details and French papers on the walls. Then the open kitchen is beautiful, which always has something reassuring and shows off the coordination of those who work, as if they were doing a dance.
Costs? The first courses are around 24 euros, the second courses over 35, the desserts 14. If you want a complete overview, the tasting menu is possible for 100 euros.
PS: Do not underestimate the small garden overlooking the Lambro, the perfect location for Sunday brunch or romantic dinners.
Source: Vanity Fair

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