Moeche and Murazzi, wind and dunes. Pellet It’s another Venice, and another lagoon. So close but definitely far from everything that is crowd and glamorous. In the months of the new Biennial of architecture signed by Carlo Rattithere is a place, just over an hour of ferry from Piazza San Marco which is light years from the paccohus vaporetti, from the experimental inputs with a limited number and by the gondolas with the fake and incorporated Belcanto. The Serenissima, you know, has long been disturbed by mass tourism. Beautiful and eternal it will be forever, but “Que c’est Sad Venise”, sang Charlez Aznavour. How sad this Venice is under siege. And what a surprise, then, to land a Pellet. Any other world.
Blue lagoon
The island looks like a joke of the tide. It was not at these latitudes, his measures would make it look like those Polynesian paradises painted by Paul Gauguin. Long, 11 km, but very narrow, from 23 meters to just under 2 to separate two seas, The calm and sauce of the lagoon and the Adriatic. The colors are all there, as in the watercolor of the post-impressionism genius. Here, however, neither French nor Maori are not talked about, but a robust Veneto who knows about history and welcome. The islet is like an apostrophe that connects the Lido of Venice to Chioggia. The lagoon stands inside with its dense and low waters, the dark briccholas, those wooden poles bormed by the sun indicating the route to the fishing boats to prevent it from getting rid of the sandy seabed. On the other hand, there is the Adriatic which, when it grants the voice, also brings tumultuous waves.


Between lido and heaven
But don’t worry: Pelletwell before Mose, she had already protected with the Murazzi. Designed between the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, in Istria stone, they are protections against the erosion of the sea and ideally prolong the bet of this island until it joins it tooasis of ca Roman, a Lipu Natural Reserve which once hosted a barracks of the Navy and today is one of the largest dune environments where they stop and cross on their travels, as in a caravanseraglio of nature, almost 200 migratory species.
Mose and Murazzi
From here you can also see the Mose, one of three plants that protects the lagoon from “high water”. Pellestrina is made of necessity virtue. AND Above the white wall of the Murazzi you can walk but don’t go by bike: it is a non -place that has created an ecosystem that has adapted over the years. The sea modeled a dune against the Murazzi and today the fronds of the maritime pines and some holm oaks have attracted to keep a golden beach, now huge now more shy. Here the local children – and not a few, the island has 3 thousand inhabitants – They still come to skip the waves or run among the boulders of the frangifutti. Even so Pellestrina has always defended her fragility.


Car free
Today we arrive in two ways, but in both cases you would no longer want to start again. From the Lido of Venice you can also arrive with the car, even if many rent the bike in Malamocco: The ferry accompanies everyone, in just over 1 hour, in Santa Maria del Mare. The four wheels here, however, really serve little, better to pedal or use the bus in what is already, without too many proclamations, a life experiment car free. After all, the cars do not even use the inhabitants who leave them in the garages and parking spaces on the mainland and here use the shuttle that makes the back and forth between the countries of this language torn from the sea and salt.
From Chioggia, instead you arrive, in 25 minutes, only on foot with the vaporetto 11 (or with your bike if there is place on board). As soon as you land – the stop is a little lugubrious, that of the “cemetery” – there are several bike rentals (muscle, the and bike is not needed, because the island is flat) with rates for a day or half day. Those who have good legs run first the long straight under the Murazzi: it is an almost metaphysical experience, between a iridescent white relative and the view of the lagoon with its colored houses.

Zonzo for “neighborhoods”
Those who want to go zonzo throw themselves directly into the maze of alleys of the neighborhoods that make up the villages. There are four and follow one another like a surrealist picture. The Sanctuary of the Madonna of the Apparition It has a large white size as befits the most sumptuous temples: here, in 1716, the Virgin would have chosen a child of the island to prove. Just beyond you immerse yourself in a watercolor of colors. Green houses, blue, pink, all the Pantone of the fantasy. More charming those with small gardens on the long lagoon. Two floors maximum, the others, the most pop ones: they still have the clothes spread and the windows wide open on the water or on old Campielli with the well in the middle.
Mountains springs from the Acque
When the sky is serene, The Euganean Hills sprout on the horizon And, just beyond, the Dolomites are also seen. The fishermen, gathered at the pier in lively warehouses, assure the index: they are sea men but still travel with the nose at inscription. So during the day they see the mountains, at night they still orient themselves with the stars. As well as with radar. They are the bearing columns of the place economy: clams or, better, i stubborn, Canestrelli, mussels, Moechewhich would be the typical soft crashing that are fishing, and taste, only here.

All fruits (of the sea)
This mirror of water and seafood that descends to Chioggia is still the second market in Italy. The mussels “cultivate” in networks that look like large socks immersed in the sea. The clams are still fishing with large cages that fall from the stern of the fishing boats. In reality, today, the conditional is needed: you understand it from the fact that some boats are stopped and that dry tool and rust beyond measure. The fault of the blue crab and climate change, everyone complains.
Valle Zappa is a mix between the Flemish style and Parc Guell: a secret place with a silent speaker off Venice, where the sacred Ibis nidify the pink flamingos to nidify the bars and huts. And where the swallows come and come to a large salon

The crab, a blue alien
That huge and threatening carapace is really the alien that nobody expected. It has changed, to use the Euphemism, the economy and rhythms of fishing. Someone tried to transform the problem into opportunities by also inserting it into the menus. It seems that the pulp is good, on fire slowly for a nice sauce. But the distrust of this enemy came from afar, with the propensity to adapt to each habitat, “devouring” the molluscs and the place economy first, just don’t like it. So it costs very little, nobody fishing it and even less if they buy it.

Networks and lace
In Pellestrina, however, you don’t give up. In Sant’Antonio, the next village, there is the only “food” of this long soul of island. Wown highly when needed, when he sold everything, he often closes. If you don’t find women, you know they’re going. As in Murano, the glass is worked, in Burano the lace, here they are not even needed the needle and the thread, but it is the Fusello who creates masterpieces: this lace is handed by hand with small passamanger tools.
It is an increasingly niche production and difficult to make new generations love. Young people here live because there are parents. They study, however, in Venice and have fun (also) in Chioggia, between Cicchetti and Spritz. Then, however, many go away, so the Avite houses are transformed into delicious BB or houses for rent very loved, in the season, also by foreigners who elect Pellestrina as a basic field to discovery not only of the Serenissima. In San Pietro in time there is also the stadium, while the library is in Santa Maria del Mare, not far from boarding for Venice.
The long summer (on the beach)
In the summer everyone conquers a handkerchief of beach which, for the most part, remains free. Those who want to bring the umbrella, or build a hut with the branches of the trees. In winter at 17 an unreal and beautiful silence falls. Often the fog also arrives to appease every anxiety. “Que c’est sad Venise”, while Pellestrina remains beautiful.
Bicycle: Vaporetto stop rental line 11 Rentabicipellestrina.it Tel 041 967591
Eating and sleeping: Osteria Damare, also has rooms Tel 041 5756094
Source: Vanity Fair

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