One step away from the coast and the sea, a few kilometers from Bolgheribesieged by tourists and wine bars, the Val di Cecinabetween villages and woods, wavy roads, rivers, ancient stories, remains a border territory. «This is still a bit like the Wild West – he tells us Rocco Toscaniwho has just finished the harvest in his agricultural companya large estate bought by his father Oliver in the Eighties with hectares of vineyards, olive groves, cereals (all organic) and horses for picnic trips in the woods – «This is a simple place, I would say elementary, certainly different, so much so that a group of people from here even “founded” the “Val di Cecina Republic” with a flag depicting a running wild boar. It’s like this: everything is still a bit wild here.” We walk with him to the dovecote, where Rocco shows us the racing pigeons he raises for racing, then among the vineyards we pass by the offices decorated with blow-ups of his father’s famous advertisements, then we return to the bar on the estate where every Friday Rocco organizes the Madame Rodeoan evening of music with DJ sets, substantial Tuscan food and wines of the companywhich Rocco produces with passion and love, from Lumeothe flagship label that comes from Syrah grapes Lolia sparkling rosé wine produced with the ancestral method (re-fermented in the bottle). «Wine is sacred – he says – it is powerful, and it is a form of art: my bottles are just my personal interpretation of this territory, whoever comes after me will do it differently, but the important thing is to be ethical, keep this piece of land in which we live today as best as possible for those who will be there.”
Stories of land and people
The beauty of Val di Cecina is made of this, of land and men, and of the stories that arise from them. In the village of Montescudaiotogether with the civic tower and the small streets of the village, the apecar parked in the small square that sells the catch of the day, the bakery that still bakes bread in the wood-fired oven, there is also a very modern «Bicycle-Cafe», a bar with wonderful banana bread and fruit smoothies with electric bicycle rental service opened by Roberta and Alvise, both Milanese who moved here, while a little further on, in an elegant historic building in the town, Kate and her husband (architect) Ulrich from Germany, after having lived in Italy for a long time, they decided to open their own B&B Lo Scudaiowhich reflects the couple’s aesthetic. In Tuscany they have definitely found their happy life: while I photograph them they embrace each other with affection and very tender gestures.
From hill to hill you pass through the village of Guardhousewhere to the inn with restaurant and rooms The Junks you can try contemporary local cuisine by dining in front of the spectacle of the hills between moon and night. TO Oak grovea magnificent fortress in the greenery, the village gathers around the Castle of the Ginori-Lisci family which today is an elegant hotel with cellar. Perhaps my favorite village remains the town of Maritime Farmhouseprobably because I visited it early in the morning, when the sun rose, illuminating the sea in the distance and then flooding the silent streets of the center with gold. You could only hear the noise of the saucers and cups of those who started the day with a coffee in the square, the same square where in the evening you eat at the tables of the trattorias and drink cocktails from Jenny, the stylist of the Madame Caffè.
Volterra, the great beauty
You could stay here for months and every day would be a discovery: definitively leaving the sea behind and entering the valley, Volterra awaits immersed in a landscape of hills and fields of moving beauty. As if it were the tangible explanation of why anyone who comes to Tuscany immediately begins to think that it is one of the most beautiful places in the world, that harmony of colors and shapes, the perfect balance between nature and human presence that makes the gaze fall in love.
Volterra has been a witness to this beauty since 800 BC when it was founded by the Etruscans, whose walls and entrance doors still welcome travellers, while in the village you walk on the sandstone streets full of fossil shells until you reach the heart of Piazza of the Priors. Volterra in just two images is made up of the Etruscan figurine theEvening Shadow al Guarnacci museum – the votive depiction of a man with a figure elongated to the point of almost becoming a shadow, a weak sign of his passage – and of the absolute masterpiece with the explosive chromatic power of Deposition from the Cross Of Rosso Fiorentino from 1521 preserved at Volterra Art Gallery. But it’s also worth stopping by Kalpa contemporary art gallery who does excellent research work, and from one of the alabaster workshops in the town that made the city rich. Giorgio Pecchioni he works albaster in every shape in his laboratory all covered with white powder just outside the walls, but his passion is alabaster musical instruments, from electric guitars to flutes that reproduce a crystalline sound.
Among the magical hills (drinking beer)
The further you proceed into the valley, the wider the distances between the villages, the woods become more and more extensive like the sacred oak grove of Berignone reserve where you go to swim in the river. The beauty of this trip was also driving on these roads (with the comfort of Škoda Enyaq the 100% electric SUVmy – faithful – traveling companion in these months): I drive towards Montecatini Val di Cecinabeautiful village where you visit the ancient copper mineand then point towards the Val di Corniawhere the hills begin to change shape, they become tall and round, plowed and arid, and become tangible, almost magical presences. Cereals are grown here, e.g Rosary of the farm Florida he decided to do so by choosing the seeds of ancient grains, grinding them with stone, producing pasta and flours which he sells in the company shop: «This einkorn spelled has been cultivated since the time of the Etruscans – he says – and it is a completely different thing: they are capable plants to defend themselves, they don’t use pesticides, they produce less but they feed themselves better. A study by the University of Florence showed that replacing these grains with new cereals produces a significant drop in cholesterol and blood sugar levels.” In the estate next door, al Poggio RossoFernando uses his grains to produce a series of excellent beers. They drink sitting in front of this sea of golden-colored hills, silent, far from everything.
Extras: forest cuisine and spas born by chance
It’s the first place I’ve been, almost by chance, but it was a discovery. Further south, not yet in the Val di Cecina area but not far away, La Cerrettain the Sassetto area, just above Castagneto Carducci, is the place for a dinner, a lunch, a day or a weekend away from it all. La Cerretta is abiodynamic farm that it produces wine, oil, meat, cured meats, cheeses, fruit, chestnuts, honey, egg, extra fruit jams. Digging to find a source of water for their cattle they found one thermal water sourceand now among the hills and expanses on which the animals graze, there are overlapping pools and springs, and a series of stone villas that house hotel rooms to find peace. It is a place to dedicate yourself to yourself, in uncontaminated nature. The restaurant also follows a precise choice, under the guidance of Chef Enrico Bellinowho has just received a green Michelin star, who runs a tavern and a restaurant and offers a 15-course tasting menu (for 75 euros) which tells the story of the company’s products, and into which Enrico puts philosophy and creativity: «I want to maintain the focus on the product, sustainable cuisine without hypocrisy, an offering of substance and less nonsense.” «I hate the word gourmet», he tells us «in the end, here we cook what we have».
Source: Vanity Fair
I’m Susan Karen, a professional writer and editor at World Stock Market. I specialize in Entertainment news, writing stories that keep readers informed on all the latest developments in the industry. With over five years of experience in creating engaging content and copywriting for various media outlets, I have grown to become an invaluable asset to any team.
