The border between Brazil and Uruguay, especially in the region of the cities Santana do Livramento (BR) and Rivera (UY), is known mainly for the large number of duty-free shops, where Brazilians can buy everything from wines and spirits to televisions and appliances. air conditioning at very attractive prices, on the Uruguayan side, of course. But is it worth leaving your city just for that?
The answer depends on where you are. For those who live in Porto Alegre, it might be worth it. Still, it's about 7 hours by road and, probably, an overnight stay in a hotel in the region. Obviously, the closer to the border, the more economical the trip. But if you live far away and, like me, are curious to get to know the region, is it still worth it?
I left São Paulo by plane towards Porto Alegre with a delay of almost 2 hours on the flight. With a rented car, I headed towards São Gabriel, where, after 4 hours on the road, we spent one night. The stop was strategic; On the way back, we stopped in Santa Maria, just for a change of scenery.
For just two nights in Rivera, there is a lot of ground covered. But I have a goal to achieve, which is to visit as many wineries as possible in Uruguay, and there were two that were missing from my list. So, depending on the purpose, the trip is worth it, especially for those who like wine. On the way to the border, there are Brazilian wineries such as Guatambú and Cordilheira de Santana, which are excellent producers, in addition to the giants Salton and Almadén. But since we're here to talk about Uruguay, let's go to the other side. What to do in a couple of days in Rivera?
Shopping
If you are there, there is no way to avoid a visit to the duty-free shops in Rivera. For those who want to invest in wines and spirits, Shopping China has a good variety of Uruguayan wines and also has a beautiful cellar in the store's basement, with wines from all over the world. Siñeriz Shopping has a vast collection of sparkling wines and European labels, as well as a significant perfumery, cosmetics and clothing sector. Rivera also has a cheese shop and other Uruguayan delicacies at very attractive prices; Le Carroussel offers parmesan, gruyère, ementhal, danbo, grana padano, as well as Conaprole and Granja Narbona products.
Parrillas
The city is peculiar. On one side of the avenue, you are in Uruguay, where the attendant may be Brazilian, but if you go to the supermarket, you will only find Uruguayan products. On the other side of the avenue, in Brazil, it is possible that the person you are talking to is Uruguayan and speaks fluent Portuguese, but the products on the shelves are Brazilian. And so, prices also change sharply from one side to the other, depending on the item, so it's always good to do your research.
Of course, this change also applies to gastronomy. The parrillas on the Uruguayan side are attractive in terms of cost/quality ratio. There are famous brands like La Perdiz a branch of the well-known house in Montevideo, and a large number of parrillas spread across the city, considering the number of inhabitants in the region.
However, one of them is practically unanimous in all indications: the Lo de Beto . The main attraction of the parrilla is Beto himself, who personally tends the fire in the Uruguayan way, with firewood. From classic cuts such as strip roast, sirloin and entrecôte, to less conventional cuts such as giblets, chinchulin, mollejas and kidneys, when it comes to meat, it is practically an obligatory stop. Lo de Beto is open from Tuesday to Saturday for dinner only, with lunch only served on Saturdays. For those looking for a grill option during this time of the week, the Morano Restaurant is another good option. The place is simple, the menu is broad, including pizzas, pastas and sandwiches, but without a doubt, the meats are the stars and, in this sense, the restaurant delivers what it promises.
Wineries
There are two wineries in Rivera that welcome tourists. They are located about 10 minutes from each other and approximately 25 minutes from the city center
Bodega Cerro Chapéu
The best known to tourists has an ancient history. Belonging to the Carrau family, traditional in the industry, it is managed by brothers Francisco and Margarida Carrau. The winery is located very close to the border with Brazil, so much so that the tasting area is on the other side of the road, in the neighboring country. The modern winery processes its grapes and wines entirely using gravity, a pioneering system in Latin America.
The beautiful building, integrated into the landscape, has three underground floors excavated inside a hill, which helps maintain a temperature of 18 degrees all year round naturally, regardless of winter or summer, without the need for refrigeration. The winery maintains its older lines, such as Castel Pujol, but also invests in wines with a younger profile and low intervention, called Folklore. In the building where the tastings take place, in addition to enjoying an exquisite board of cold cuts and empanadas, it is possible to taste wines of different styles in a place with a privileged view. It is common for tastings to end with a toast at sunset.
Cerro Chapéu also has a central house where family, friends and guests of the winery currently stay, but a project to transform the place into an inn for tourists is about to get off the ground. It's worth keeping an eye on, as the space is charming and offers unique tranquility.
Bodega Viña 636
One of the most precious attractions in Uruguay are, precisely, the small wineries, where you are often welcomed by the owner, winemaker or someone close to them. Of course, these places don't always have a mega infrastructure to receive guests. Generally, it is necessary to book the visit well in advance, but when it happens, it is an authentic experience that you will find there, without affectations or scenarios.
That's how I found Thiago Gutiérrez, the winery's winemaker whose father, an accountant, bought the land years ago with no experience in the matter. Contact via Instagram took a while, but it was worth the wait. The tasting took place in its production area. Thiago describes his winery as purist, he tries to work with minimal intervention, he doesn't like using barrels and he seeks the purest translation of terroir in his wines.
The place is small, with a few hectares of vineyards surrounded by pine trees, where the presence of native fauna can be seen. Each production is small but carefully crafted. His wines are pleasing, as is his conversation in perfect Portuguese, which he learned watching Brazilian television during his childhood. Snacking on bread and cheese, between one bowl and another, you barely see the time pass, and I'm sure that these are experiences that make the long trip there worth it.
*The texts published by Insiders and Columnists do not necessarily reflect the opinion of CNN Viagem & Gastronomia.
About Giuliana Nogueira
Source: CNN Brasil
Johanna Foster is an expert opinion writer with over 7 years of experience. She has a reputation for delivering insightful and thought-provoking articles on a variety of subjects. Her work can be found on some of the top online news websites, and she is currently lending her voice to the world stock market.
