Is it possible to make a disruptive wine, different from anything that has been done in the past in the year 2024? The answer is: yes, however, it requires a solid background in the classics.
An example is the advice I received from a teacher I had at school: “To become a great reader, you need to start with the classics ”. At the time, I didn’t understand the hint, but I took it as an order to begin my intellectual life. Afterwards, I understood that the objective is to know the origin and what brought us to what we know today.
This same reasoning should also be applied to the world of wine, after all, the shadow of the great labels of the past always follows any enthusiastic winemaker.
In fact, anyone who has never drunk a new world pinot noir and tried to find traces of an unforgettable Burgundy in the glass should cast the first stone.
During my wanderings in Prowine 2024 I confess that I was reluctant to try some proposals from Brazilian wineries — certainly, my prejudice with “the new” came to the fore here. Even so, I was extremely surprised by two wines that I ask permission to comment on.
When visiting fellow countrymen Casa Valduga I discovered something I had never imagined drinking: a brut muscatel sparkling wine . That’s right, sweet without being sweet.

Labeled by sister company Ponto Nero, the drink was named Live Dream Brut. During the tasting, you feel the “attack” of a muscatel and expect to see it in the “aftertaste”, but you don’t find it, which makes you “lost”.
Wine has a very good balance between acidity and refreshment with very present fruity notes and creamy texture.
Unlike what happens with traditional muscat, here fermentation lasted longer until the yeast autolysis was complete, indicating that all the sugar in the grapes had been consumed.
Still in the bubbles, I found another innovation which made many people stop “scowling” when drinking cider.

The famous end-of-year party drink was reinvented by the “kids” of Garbo Creative Enology . The winery is already known for doing different things and decided to focus on integrating apples with grapes when creating “Garbo Pecado”. The label shows the “forbidden fruit” which refers to the biblical original sin, a reference to the boldness of the feat.
It is made with apples harvested in São Joaquim (SC), a reference region for fruit cultivation throughout Brazil, and went through the champenoise process, the same method used in the production of sparkling wines and champagnes with bottle fermentation.
To integrate it into the world of wines, the winemakers decided to give a special touch with expedition liqueur which features chardonnay from the Serra Gaucha mountains.
Swimming “Sin” It has a straw yellow color, abundant perlage and a predominance of aromas of white and tropical fruits.
On the palate, there is a balance between freshness and sweetness, which transfers complexity and makes the drink ideal for pairing with acidic desserts. In fact, this was the label that closed the dinner promoted by the winery together with the Mozart crystal shop, in São Paulo, at the beginning of October.
The examples show that, no matter how “conservative” the oenological universe is, there is always space to be explored and ways to do something “outside the box”, as long as the wine is good. In fact, if the wine is good, you can invite me.
*The texts published by Insiders and Columnists do not necessarily reflect the opinion of CNN Viagem & Gastronomia
About Stêvão Limana

Stêvão Limana is a journalist graduated from the Federal University of Santa Maria (UFSM), with a postgraduate degree in oenology, a candidate for professional sommelier and a marathon runner in his spare time. On TV, he talks about politics and elections, while on the internet he focuses on wine and gastronomy.
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Source: CNN Brasil

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