This article is published in number 21 of Vanity Fair on newsstands until May 25, 2021
There are few places in the world capable of taking your breath away like the Gulf of Naples in spring. Admiring the promenade that is populated with people with the arrival of summer has always been a constant in my life. A constant that, unfortunately, in the last year has been postponed for the reasons we all know. Precisely for this reason, spring 2021 takes on a completely different flavor. A taste of rebirth accompanied by a necessary, cautious return to our habits such as that of returning to lunch out.
Small, simple pleasures that have now become extraordinary, and which for this reason will be fully enjoyed, as if nothing were to be taken for granted. I don’t want to be presumptuous, but I think I can assert without a shadow of a doubt that I’m the son of one of the best cooks in Naples. I accept my responsibilities, aware of the explosive power of such a declaration. I know I’m not the first, and certainly not the last, to want to own this record, but I can count on the testimonies of famous friends and renowned gourmets such as – among others – Lucio Dalla, Julian Schnabel and Jeff Koons. There is no host of
my house who got up from the table without extolling my mother’s culinary skills.
Going beyond social classes, age and neighborhoods of origin, I can admit with certainty that food is the universal glue of most of my closest acquaintances. I am thinking for example of the grandmother of some of my historical friends, a writer, Jeanne Caròla Francesconi. His book, La Cucina Napoletana, written in 1965, is still a must in all the city’s kitchens, a kind of gastronomic Bible. On the other hand – and I apologize in advance for the cliché – for us Neapolitans cooking is a family matter.
It was during Sunday lunches that I learned how the sharing of flavors and aromas also favors the sharing of stories and ideas. And it is by wandering around the restaurants of the city, from the bistros on the waterfront to the terraces on the hills, that I perceived that the same dynamics are also hidden behind the glass windows of the kitchens, at the bar counters, around the cash desk during the end of the shift. I didn’t just see owners and waiters, cooks and dishwashers.
I also saw mothers and children, grandparents and grandchildren. I saw the same exchanges of affectionate glances, the same reproaches and the same deep, visceral knowledge that existed between me and my closest relatives. Some things cannot be taught at the academy and I believe that this is the secret behind the success of Neapolitan catering: whether one wants it or not, every time it is like going home. To make the idea better, I have prepared a list of my favorite places; my very personal “treasure map”.
Cicciotto in Marechiaro is a romantic hamlet with a breathtaking view, the ideal place for a first date, with the island of Capri acting as a third wheel. Located on the extreme tip of Posillipo, its fish dishes are celebrated throughout the coast. It is a tradition that has been handed down from generation to generation, ever since the restaurant had a maximum of five tables on the veranda in the 1960s. Chic at the right point, the quality is excellent and the portions are decidedly Neapolitan. I remember perfectly when, as a kid, I heard the music coming from the endless wedding parties that went on until late at night, illuminated by the moon of Marechiaro. Today the elder Cicciotto, who was once the least taken into consideration among the
restaurateurs of the area, passed the scepter to his sons Gianluca and Vincenzo, who managed to expand this postcard by acquiring the space of the restaurants
alongside, without distorting the intimate and magical atmosphere that you breathe every time you cross their door. Al Poeta continues the series of my favorite places in Posillipo. An essential step for those who love traditional cuisine, also in this case we are talking about a family management that has lasted for generations with an excellent
sea ​​and land menu. The long life of the restaurant is a perfect meeting point between a rustic style and a contemporary approach to catering. In order not to miss anything, I recommend that you book a table outside, where you can enjoy their catch of the day in a garden overlooking the sea. Do not underestimate the pizzas, they are a real pleasure for the palate.
The Chalet delle Palme is precisely what the name describes: one of the numerous places built on the seafront in the mid-twentieth century surrounded by palm trees tens of meters high. Over the years the famous red weevil has damaged much of the vegetation that overlooks the Gulf of Naples, but the stubbornness and care of the owners have made sure that the palms of this bar-restaurant managed to survive.
For more than seventy years it has been one of the most popular meeting points in Mergellina, frequented by a unique and inimitable melting pot. From the intellectual to the most genuine Neapolitans, anyone should sit at one of their tables at least once in their life to enjoy a coffee accompanied by a dessert
traditional Neapolitan.
The Regina Margherita in via Partenope is located in a dream location. It is a restaurant that allows you to dine at sunset with Vesuvius on one side and the Posillipo hill on the other. In the summer months, the waterfront is populated with Caribbean people and colors, almost convincing us to stay on
Croisette de Cannes (without the raving stars and photographers). As you can guess from the name, their strong point is the pizza cooked in a wood oven. It is the perfect place for a carefree evening, with the lights of Castel dell’Ovo as a backdrop.
The Leon D’oro is the reference point for the actors who flock there en masse at the end of each show, so much so that it is closed on Mondays, the day when the plays are not staged. Located in Piazza Dante, one of the most beautiful historical views of the city, it was already famous in the 1950s. I still remember when my parents praised it, in love with their homemade but amazing cuisine. Today the management has passed into the hands of Tonino, son of the original owner. The sober place is essential but rich in history, with the walls covered with photographs depicting the Gotha of the Italian theater: from Vittorio Gassman to Gabriele Lavia, from Gigi Proietti to Eduardo De Filippo, up to directors of contemporary cinema, everyone has passed this way. at midnight to make yourself a plate of spaghetti.
Antica Taverna a Chiaia was born more than a century ago as a “butcher”, one of the ancient butchers built in the heart of the Spanish Quarters. Today it has become a pilgrimage destination for all those who want to immerse themselves in a Neapolitan experience at three hundred and sixty degrees: a real temple carved in marble, with shelves full of top quality products.
It is run by the Rapisarda family and here there is a real matriarchy, at the top of which we find three ladies with extraordinarily pop “nail art”.
If you love local specialties, such as fried cod or pasta and potatoes, you will go crazy for their diabolical invention: fried mozzarella stuffed with broccoli. Once tasted you will not be able to do without it. Not recommended for those about to go on a diet.
An exclusive production for Vanity Fair, photo GIULIO PISCITELLI
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