On July 9, in the historic Avenue George V salon, Demn has signed what will be his Swan song for Balenciaga. After a decade spent reinventing the codes of luxury, from the boots-colors to the bagpipes (literally), the Georgian stylist gave his farewell with a free collection, between fidelity to Cristóbal Balenciaga and personal introspection. In a parade where the names of the members of his team replaced the music, he offered his latest bow to the maison.
Ready for the debut at the Directorate of Gucci, the Georgian stylist Riefumo the famous e -mail with which the Balenciaga maison – who would later direct for ten years – refused to carry on his candidacy
To embody this final gesture, two women but also two symbols. Isabelle Huppertaustere, sublime and intellectual, e Kim Kardashianpop goddess and media star. Both faithful to Balenciaga symbolize the contrasted inheritance of Demna: a dialogue between discreet and spectacular glamorous nobility. Isabelle Huppert, in an impeccable black silhouette, with high collar and large dark sunglasses, evoked the relentless Parisian so dear to Balenciaga. His precise incede recalled his mastery of fashion as of cinema, silent but sovereign.
Kim Kardashian, on the other hand, appeared in a silk dress inspired by the film by Richard Brooks The cat on the roof that burnssurmounted by a coat of “mink” made with embroidered feathers. A clear tribute to Elizabeth Taylorup to the diamond earrings from its private collection, lent by Lorraine Schwartz. Two women, two eras, two figures of femininity, gathered by the vision of Demna, in which the theater of appearances dialogues with the rigorousness of the cut. As a last demonstration that the dress, under its direction, has never been simply something to wear, but always something to embody.
The collection, deliberately sober in the palette but rich in the structure, revisited the archetypes of the bourgeoisie. Colli alle Medici, “comfortable” corsetteria, rever in tulip, sculpted sleeves: in demna, everything is shape and language. The suit Pied-de-Poule of 1967, recreated here, is part of an erudite reinterpretation of the history of the maison. Velvet garments with a trompe-l’œil coasts made with 300 meters of tuffed embroidery, coats without lateral seams, or even the “diva” dress with black sequins worn by Naomi Campbellrecall an ideal of high fashion in which technique and poetry merge.
Complete “single size” made to measure for a bodybuilder They are worn by models and models with different morphologies. “It is not the dress that defines the body, but the body to define the dress,” he summarizes Demna in his notes. The parade closes with the song of Sade No ordinary love And a sewing -free lace dress, modeled with modisterial techniques. A dress with a sculptural and minimal allure that concludes the expression of the designer’s manifesto: “I approached as much as possible to satisfy the infinite research of the impossible perfection, that of Cristóbal Balenciaga”.
The front row was up to the event: Nicole Kidman, Cardi B, Aya Nakamura, Katy Perry and also Adèle Exarchopoulos They were present, dressed with some of the most iconic creations of the maison. Everyone had come to pay homage to the one who redefined Balenciaga for an entire generation. In a few days, Pierpaolo Piccioli He will take the witness. Demna, on the other hand, is preparing to face a new challenge from Gucci.
Source: Vanity Fair
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