In summer, the sun never sets. But it is in winter, when temperatures reach a freezing -40ºC, that it is the best time to witness the Northern Lights show. Home to forests, glaciers, mountains and ancient ways of life, the Lapland It is a breathtaking territory in every sense.
It’s no wonder that the 7th season of CNN Travel & Gastronomy ended here. After immersing myself in Stockholm’s culture and cuisine, I decided to challenge myself even further. In the very north of Sweden, above the Arctic Circle Swedish Lapland gifted me with stunning landscapes and the realization of seeing the thrilling Northern Lights.
Protected by parks and reserves, Lapland has the reputation of being the “Santa’s land ”. But it is more than that: it is the home of the Sami, an indigenous people with their own language, culture and customs. They have a long tradition of reindeer husbandry, forming one of the largest – and last – areas in the world with an ancestral way of life based on the seasonal movement of the herds.
In addition to these lessons, some of the experiences during the freezing days involved a hotel made entirely of ice; crystal clear, starry skies; and a face-to-face experience with wild wolves.
Where is Lapland?
To begin with, Lapland encompasses northern Scandinavia in parts of Norway , Sweden , Finland and even from Russia . Most of Lapland lies above the Arctic Circle.
The most talked about region is Finland, but this time my stay was between Swedish Lapland (Unesco Heritage) and the Norwegian Lapland .
It is worth noting that Lapland is rich in mineral deposits. The city of Kiruna, in Sweden, where I began my journey, has one of the largest iron mines in the world, for example.
Icehotel: the ice hotel
Some ice hotels have gone viral around the world, but the original is in Lapland. In the small village of Jukkasjärvi, in the Kiruna area, the Icehotel carves its structure annually in winter with blocks of ice brought from the nearby river – all this to operate for about three months. To build it, 2,500 blocks are needed, each weighing two tons.
But you don’t have to come only in winter to experience it. Since 2016, there has been a permanent version of the hotel that is open all year round. Called Icehotel 365 the area has themed suites, a bar and an ice gallery. The indoor temperature including in the bedrooms, is -5ºC and cooling powered by solar panels ensures a “cool” feeling in the summer.
And how do you survive a night below freezing? Guests check into a heated structure equipped with a sauna and fireplace, which functions as a 24-hour community center. A guide gives a “survival course” to overnight guests, including explanations about the sleeping bag, which is designed for temperatures around -25ºC. It is worth mentioning that the bed base is made of ice, but the mattress has special protection.
According to Icehotel, most guests spend just one night in the ice suites, and then move to a “normal” room with heating, which is also offered here. And if you’re just passing through, the tip is to give it a try. stop at the bar and try Swedish gin served in a glass of ice, a souvenir that we can take home, but that doesn’t last long.
The Hunt for the Northern Lights
From Kiruna I drove to Björkliden a ski resort amidst snow-capped peaks. Unlike other places, I didn’t stay in a hotel, but in a mountain cabin on the edge of Lake Torne. It is a more rustic experience with a different rhythm. Cabin options can be found on here.
On a clear night, not far away, I had dinner at Abisko Mountain Lodge in the town of Abisko, which has a restaurant serving typical mountain food, including reindeer in all its forms: reindeer stew, reindeer tartare, reindeer veal, reindeer ragout and reindeer roe. In Sweden, the only people allowed to raise reindeer are the Sami, who not only use the skins to keep warm but also sell the meat, which is their way of life. Learn more about the Sami lifestyle in this article.
And it was on this very night that the hunting for the Northern Lights started. Through a cell phone app, I was already monitoring her movements and predictions, but she could surprise us.
“The Sun has cycles. It starts with the Sun being stable and calm. Then comes the moment we are in now, which is called solar maximum, when the Sun becomes very unstable and starts emitting a lot of rays, particles and protons into the atmosphere. This is what eventually interacts with our atmosphere,” explains Sara Brockmann, guide and Aurora Borealis expert.
To see the phenomenon, we basically need four factors: solar activity, clear skies, proximity to the Earth’s poles and, basically, luck. That night, the factors were in my favor. Close to the ski resort, it appeared: green, beautiful and dancing. Even though its appearance is sometimes brief, it is a unique moment of communion that we have with the Universe.
Norwegian Lapland
From Sweden, it was time to venture into another Lapland, this time in the Norwegian portion of the territory. By car, the distance between Abisko and the city of Narvik is about 1h10.
Surrounded by high mountains and fjords, Narvik offers countless outdoor activities, as well as being a cruise ship stop and having one of the most scenic train lines in the world. The city was a strategic location in World War II, so much so that it is home to the Narvik War Museum which tells the story of the German invasion in 1940.
“Narvik is a hub for shipping iron ore around the world. In 1940, Kiruna’s iron ore was the purest. Germany wanted it, but Britain didn’t want them to get their hands on it. So the largest naval battle in the Atlantic during World War II took place here,” says museum guide Ann Kristin Kristensen.
Among the original artifacts is a seven-meter-long torpedo used by the Germans against Norwegian and British ships. It is, without a doubt, a place that reveals a frightening past, but is important for memory. Adult tickets cost 130 Norwegian kroner (R$68).
In Narvik, my stay was in Camp 291 , modern lodge with containers on top of the mountain. This means that the bed faces privileged views, as well as a large living room with kitchen and balcony, from where, luckily, I briefly caught sight of the Northern Lights, which disappeared as if by magic. There are nine cabins in total, which accommodate two to five people.
Encounter with wild wolves
Finally, one of the most challenging experiences of the trip took place in Bardu, a commune not far from Narvik. Here is the Polar Park a center for research and conservation of Arctic species.
The park preserves the surrounding natural environment and is home to bears, wolves, lynx, moose and reindeer. Open every day, entry costs from 325 Norwegian kroner (about R$ 170 ). Surrounded by picturesque landscapes, the place offers rustic accommodation for those who want to spend the night, where the howling of wolves serves as the soundtrack as night falls.
Speaking of which, it is possible schedule an experience face to face with these wild animals. That’s what I did: with all the safety rules and the utmost respect, the activity helps raise awareness and protect these species.
Together with professionals, we are taken to the area where they live, surrounded by nature. “The main thing is to remain calm in all movements,” says Stig Sletten, a park guide. All movements must be careful, as our reaction can affect the animal. If they start to growl at each other, play or even fight, we must remain still.
And that happened to me. My racing heart soon calmed down when two wolves gently approached and licked my face. Once they accept us, asking for affection, it is easy to follow commands – it is just difficult to contain the emotion. Between howls, games and fights between them, I saw up close the true wild origin of these mammals.
With that, I say that this season of CNN Travel & Gastronomy ended in the best way: with the completion of new challenges and the overcoming of fears.
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Johanna Foster is an expert opinion writer with over 7 years of experience. She has a reputation for delivering insightful and thought-provoking articles on a variety of subjects. Her work can be found on some of the top online news websites, and she is currently lending her voice to the world stock market.
