They are family stories those of ten Neapolitan brands selected for this new installment of our series dedicated to Made in Italy.
It is a family story that of Paola Grande and Giulia Di Pace, mother and daughter, heirs of five generations of jewelers and, in 2012, founders of Paola Grande Jewels. It is that of the famous E. Marinella ties and the historic Tramontano leather goods, but also of the younger ones Alldaylong beachwearfounded by cousins ​​Giusy and Patrizia, e LEDEFF of the sisters Barbara and Luigia de Felice, whose idea was born from a collection of antique trunks inherited from grandmother Rosaria, in turn descendant of a well-known Neapolitan tailor’s shop of the early twentieth century.
And they are stories of returns. Returns to Naples, in fact, after training experiences in other cities of Italy and abroad, and returns to its ancient tradition, in the processing of leather and hide – in the case of the young Marianna Mazza, first student in Rome e shoes product developer at luxury brands in Florence, then returned home to launch the eponymous brand – e in goldsmith techniquesfrom which Paola Grande’s jewels are born, whose vision is nourished and enriched by her daughter’s international education.
Other stories of Vanity Fair that may interest you:
– Made in Italy: 10 independent brands to discover in Bologna
– Made in Itlay: 10 independent brands to discover in Venice
– Made in Italy: 10 independent brands to discover in Rome
– Made in Italy: 10 independent brands to discover in Florence
The collections of Nomad tailoringborn in 2020 from the meeting between the designer Flora Sazio and the stylist Mirta Robiony: creations born from the desire to return to the slowness of the handmade and to give new impetus to those excellences of the territory otherwise destined to disappear.
So you travel, you create bonds, you broaden your horizons, but then you return, to breathe the brackish air, designing accessories in the showroom a few steps from the sea.
The sun, the sparkling sea of ​​the city of a thousand colors, are not only metaphorically present in all these creations, they are in the bags of the historic Tramontano leather goods brand – where Vesuvius overlooking the Gulf of Naples is woven on the linings – they are in the costumes of Alldaylongwhich has made its own distinctive mark of the metallic fabric (which reverberates like light on water).
Now you just have to discover them all, the ten independent Neapolitan brands that we tell you in the gallery below. To regain possession – at least in part – of that slowness that is found only in objects created with care, patience, and love … as it once was.
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Copyright 2022. All rights reserved.1/10Nomad tailoring
From the meeting between Flora Sazio, fashion designer, and Mirta Robiony, fashion stylist, Sartoria Nomade was born in 2020, clothing brand entirely Made in Italy, characterized by small productions with eco-sustainable fabrics and original prints. Driven by the desire to return to a slower fashion, as once, and inspired by their travels, Flora and Mirta produce limited editions using mainly fabrics of natural origin such as linen, cotton, silk and wool; production takes place in small tailoring workshops or by collaborating with local artisans, giving the right value to those who make the garments and enhancing the excellence of the territory otherwise destined to disappear. The shapes and lines of the Sartoria Nomade garments are simple and inclusive, combining comfort with aesthetics; the added value is given by the fabrics printed with exclusive patterns, inspired by ancient refined and reworked designs, which make these dresses unique.
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Copyright 2022. All rights reserved.2/10LEDEFF
The taste and the style of past eras and a contemporary touch come together in the LEDEFF bags, whose history originates from the ancient trunks of a collector: those that grandmother Rosaria, heir to a well-known Neapolitan tailor’s shop of the early 1900s, leaves to her grandchildren, the sisters Barbara and Luigia de Felice, founders of the brand. The production of LEDEFF bags, with high quality materials, is entirely Made in Italy, and the showroom is a stone’s throw from the sea, near the famous Lungomare Caracciolo.
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3/10Paola Grande Jewels
That of Paola Grande Gioielli is a family story that begins in Naples in the distant 1890, when Salvatore Grande opens his business specializing in the trade of precious stones, and reaches the present day, to Paola Grande and her daughter Giulia Di Pace, the creative duo behind to the brand founded in 2012. Today Paola Grande Gioielli’s creations find a home in Naples where Paola lives and works, and in Milan, in Via Fiori Chiari in Brera, where Giulia has opened a small atelier. Craftsmanship and innovation characterize the creations of mother and daughter, in a sophisticated balance between Neapolitan tradition and creative intuition.
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4/10Marianna Mazza
Those signed by Marianna Mazza are timeless shoes, which live beyond the seasons, made by local artisans and characterized by hand-applied jewels-decorations. “Made in Italy with Amore” it is not just a manifesto for the young designer – trained at the IED in Rome and, like shoes product developer, at some luxury brands including Gucci and Balenciaga – is the main value that guides his business: a small creative and productive company with the mission of enhancing Made in Italy by experimenting with different processing techniques.
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5/10Alldaylong
It is from the meeting of two generations that Alldaylong, a brand of beachwear made in Italy all for women which combines attention to detail, typical of the past, and a look at the trends of the future. Giusy and Patrizia, Neapolitan cousins, have always shared a passion for fashion and love for the family. Creating Alldaylong was for them like reopening a box of old photographs: grandmothers, mothers, aunts, with their démodé poses, winked at them from those images, suggesting a completely current style, aimed at today’s girls and tomorrow.
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6/10Musetta
The manufacture of Musetta bags is entrusted to Neapolitan craftsmen, which interpret the clean design and modern lines with the care and attention that characterize the made in Italy. In every creation there is Naples, its colors, its generosity and its light.
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7/10Tramontano Naples
Tramontano was born fromancient Neapolitan tradition of leather and hide processing. The evolution of the brand is like a journey, over a century long, in the production of luxury bags, suitcases and accessories which reaches up to the present day, tracing a path in the name of all-Italian craftsmanship and style. On the logo two manatees, endangered marine mammals linked to the myth of mermaids and a source of inspiration for monuments such as the Fontana del Sebeto and the Fontana dell’Immacolatella in Naples. The link between the brand and Mediterranean culture is also expressed in the Panorama image, representing Vesuvius overlooking the Gulf of Naples, woven on the fabric of the linings of the first Tramontano creations. And from the Lungomare Caracciolo the bags of Tramontano arrived all over the world, in the homes of celebrities such as Woody Allenwho on a visit to Naples commissioned a case for his clarinet, Lou Reed, Hillary Clinton (Tramontano’s handbag with metal handles), and then Marcello Mastroianni, Lucio Dalla and Luciano Pavarotti.
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8/10E. Marinella
Famous brand for its silk ties – worn by members of the Kennedy family and by Charles of Englandand exhibited at the MoMA in New York in 2017 on the occasion of the exhibition ITEMS: Is Fashion Modern? – Marinella was born in 1914 as a small shop frequented by the Neapolitan high society. In 1940, Eugenio Marinella created two tailoring workshops: one for the creation of bespoke shirts and a second for ties. Even today the brand produces clothing and accessories according to traditional craftsmanship methods, using hand printed silks expressly for E. Marinella. Maurizio and Alessandro Marinella, descendants of Eugenio, personally intervene in the choice of patterns, giving precise indications and enriching the silks models with their creativity. And while the production has expanded – no longer just men’s ties and shirts, but also clothing and other accessories, both for men and women – the historic shop in via Riviera di Chiaia has been joined by outlets in the main fashion capitals, from Milan to New York. However, silk (in the photo used to make a foulard) remains the central material in the history of a brand which, from generation to generation, is evolving, while remaining rooted in tradition.
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9/10Francesco Tramontano
Young Neapolitan craftsman, Francesco Tramontano, opened his goldsmith workshop in Naples in 2008. «Starting by investing in my hometown was fundamental. My land inspires me continuously and I love the idea of ​​being able to contribute to a new Neapolitan creative spring“, explains. A second store in Milan and the e-shop followed, but the link with the Mediterranean and craftsmanship continued. Francesco’s handcrafted silver and brass jewels are amulets capable of carrying the sea even where it is not there.
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10/10Amina Rubinacci
In Paris Amina Rubinacci was nicknamed “the queen of the jersey”. From Christian Dior to Saint Laurent, all the most important couturiers have appreciated the style and elegance of her knitwear. But it was in Naples, in the seventies, that she founded the homonymous Maison which today, with her children, offers total look women’s collections. Amina designs her clothes in Naples, the cradle of the great Italian tailoring tradition; a city with two faces, the frenetic activity of the alleys on one side, and the majesty of the sea and the sky on the other. Perhaps this is why his designs are delicate but powerful, elegant and functional at the same time, because they draw inspiration from this fascinating, irresistible contradiction that characterizes his city.
Source: Vanity Fair
.jpeg "On the path of the brigands, in Abruzzo, a story of rebirth")
