Meet the 10 inhabitants village that is disappearing in Italy

Founded by the Etruscan, survivor of the Roman era and improved in medieval times, today the village of Civita di Bagnoregio It rises imposing on the horizon of Licio, central Italy. Picturesque and deeply historical, there is one however: their days are numbered.

Known as the “city that dies”, the village is at the top of a hill Erosion action . Surrounded by valleys, it has become an isolated piece of land over the centuries. The portion of the soil that connected Civita to the sister Shag This is a larger and more “firm” city, it was wearing out.

What we can consider as a natural fatality, however, has become the local charm. One day the village will succumb to the pressure of time and erosion, but we don’t know exactly when. The fact is that, for now, we can check out this small Italian jewelry with our own eyes and legs.

That’s what I did during the recordings of CNN Viagem & Gastronomy Season 9 for Italy. In addition to the abundant gastronomy and the rich history of Rome, I ran some of the most graceful corners in the country by car – all for short trips from the capital.

Destinations abound: just 25 kilometers from Rome is CASTEL GANDOLFO headquarters of the Summer Residence of Popes, transformed into a museum by Francisco. After, Orvieth In the uble, it entered the list due to its cathedral worthy of any deviation and magnificent culture and gastronomy. So, in this car trip I came across Civita di Bagnoregio, ideal for escaped from Rome .

Medieval atmosphere


Daniela Filomeno through the streets of Civita di Bagnoregio

Civita was built on top of tuft a porous volcanic rock. Below the tufo layer there are layers of clay, also fragile. With the action of water and wind, the village suffers from the relentless strength of erosion. What we see today is the result of many centuries.

Located 120 kilometers north of Rome, in a course that lasts about two hours, the village is accessed exclusively through a pedestrian catwalk. There are parking lots near the access ramp and, below, we already feel the strength of this destination.

Reach the only entrance, the Santa Maria Door It requires good legs and breath, but the climb is rewarding. The monumental gate was one of several accesses that existed in the past, until, with the damage caused by erosion and earthquakes, this is left.

Digped by the Etruscan over 2,500 years ago, it was decorated with a 12th century Romanesque arc and functions today as a kind of passage to another time. As we enter the streets of stones, we are taken to the Middle Ages, which dictates the tone of what we will find ahead.

Historical buildings remain as they were, despite the test of time. Captivating at each angle, Civita di Bagnoregio can be quietly visited in just one day Because of its size: it is approximately 150 meters long by 90 wide.

The population is also tiny. It is estimated that About 10 people make fixed home In the village, a number that increases in summer. Nevertheless, every day hundreds of travelers help in flow and maintain local businesses.

What to do in Civita di Bagnoregio


Interior of church in civita di bagnoregio

Medieval towers, stone houses, a central church and narrow alleys without car traffic They are a summary of the village, where the clock pointers seem to have stopped.

The main square, the Piazza San Donato It is the heart of the village, where festivals and processions begin and where the past is honored. Here is the San Donato Church originally erected in the 5th century in Romanesque style. Refused in the 16th century with a Renaissance façade, damaged with an earthquake in the following century. Today we see frescoes of the Italian Renaissance and relics inside.

It is worth mentioning that the church was originally the headquarters of the bishopric of the region, but due to the earthquakes and the erosion of the soil, especially in the late 17th century, the headquarters was transferred to the neighboring city of Bagnoregio.

In Civita, rather than visiting the old church, the ideal is to repeat a classic formula in Italy: Walk aimlessly It’s the best way to feel the atmosphere and come across small gardens, terraces, shops and restaurants.


Daniela Filomeno in the Antica Civita, a space that shows the way of life in environments dug inside the rock since the times of the Etruscans

One way or another we face with views of lock which presents us with irresistible landscapes of the surroundings. If you hunger, some canteens and osteria They put tables on the alleys on more sunny days and serve the unbeatable Italian combo: sausages, pasta and local wines.

To understand a little more of the characteristics of fragile soil, the Geological museum in Piazza de San Donato, is a cultural tour that teaches about the natural risks that the village faces.

With clear indications in the center, it is also possible to walk a few steps and reach the area known as Civite antique exhibition space in caves inside the rock. For the symbolic price of a euro (about R $ 6.40) we see presses of olive oil, tools, plows and barrels, objects that reveal rural traditions since the times of the Etruscans.

And a curiosity to the soap operas on duty: Civita di Bagnoregio was used as a lease of initial scenes of the soap opera “Hope”, created by Benedito Ruy Barbosa and Walcyr Carrasco, broadcast by TV Globo between 2002 and 2003.

Tips for Visiting Civita di Bagnoregio


Center of Civita di Bagnoregio seen from afar
  • An entry fee is charged to the village. The current price revolves around 5 euros about R $ 32. the ticket can be purchased at the box office located in the area before the Civita access bridge;
  • To get to Bagnoregio, give preference to the car. However, it is possible to make a combined trip by train and bus from Rome. From the capital, there are trains to orviet, and from orviet it is necessary to take a bus to Bagnoregio. This option is longer and logistics demands organization, with attention to the times of trains and buses;
  • Always consult the weather forecast and give preference to visit the village on open days. The experience is much more pleasant and timely than on fog or rain days;
  • In addition to the civita, take the opportunity to go Bagnoregio, the sister city. Go to Piazza Cavour the main, with little shops, cafes and that sympathy of local life; and know the San Nicola Church with sacred art and historical artifacts, such as a 12th -century parchment bible and gold and silver reliquary;
  • If you give time, schedule a jump to orviet by car or bus. For me, it is one of the most pleasant destinations in Italy.

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