Micro-exfoliating face peeling: light triumphs on the skin

One of the essential elements of the Korean beauty routine, key support to get one glass skin (taken from English these words mean glass skin, an expression used to refer to a smooth, clear and transparent complexion) is the micro-exfoliating lotion, a beauty gesture increasingly appreciated and recommended by experts. «These are cosmetics with a very light consistency to be used every day. They work gently with the skin ecosystem, freeing it of the superfluous and allowing the complexion to improve its appearance and reveal its radiance », says Marina Romagnoli, Biomedical dermatologist from Genoa and member of the Isplad scientific committee. “Considered gentle exfoliants, they are ideal to use in cold weather so as not to further stress the skin already put to the test by the cold, the wind and the sudden changes in temperature associated with the passage between the outdoors and closed environments”.

Double result

The micro-exfoliating lotions work in two ways, achieving a twofold result. First of all they bring out the natural splendor of the skin because they favor the process of eliminating thickening. «The skin cells are renewed every day, with a cycle of about 28 days that allows the young to replace the dead ones. This process is called keratinization and its acceleration (typical of psoriasis) or its slowing down are at the basis of skin pathologies and imperfections such as opacity, dryness, yellowish appearance, rough patches, clogged pores and more visible fine lines or pigmentation problems “, says the expert. These products are also capable of acting in depth. «Not only do they help to illuminate, but they give a regenerating boost that favors the synthesis of collagen and elastic, the fibrous components: when they are fresh and vital, they improve the texture of the tissues and help the skin to remain plump, taut and young ».

There is also another aspect that should not be underestimated: by freeing the skin pores from all types of impurities, the absorption of the active ingredients contained in the treatments applied subsequently is facilitated. The actions carried out by this type of cosmetics is given by the presence of a wide range of acids that are commonly defined as fruit acids, but in reality there are different types belonging to 3 categories.

AHA – Alpha-hydroxy-acids. They include glycemic acid, lactic acid, magic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and lactic acid. They are capable of removing dead cells, reducing cohesion between the corneocytes, the cells of the epidermis, because they act, dissolving them, on the desmosomes, the intracellular bridges. They guarantee deep cleaning.

BHA – Beta-hydroxy acids, essentially represented by salicylic acid. Made up of thinner molecules than AHAs, they are effective in products dedicated to the treatment of acne and act on blackheads, favoring their emptying precisely because they are able to penetrate more easily into the skin and free clogged pores. They have a lightening effect and increase skin brightness. Studies show they have a strong ability to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, the supporting fibers of skin tissues.

PHA – Poly-hydroxy acids. The gluconolactone and lactobionic acid belong to this group and also have a modest antioxidant function. They behave like AHAs but have larger molecules. For this characteristic they are considered less irritating and ideal for delicate rosacea skin and atopic dermatitis.

How to use them

The advantages of micro-exfoliating lotions are definitely tempting, but it is always advisable to use them with due care. «Those who have never used them must always start with specialties with low percentages of these active ingredients, applying them once or twice a week, checking their personal reaction. Then they can also be used every day. If in doubt, consult a dermatologist to find out your skin type and the products best suited to your skin care needs and goals, ”explains the dermatologist. It is also important to avoid using other scrubs at the same time as adverse reactions such as redness and peeling can occur. «Another feature of these preparations is that they are sensitive to light: therefore another thing to do is to use a day treatment with a sunscreen».

How long

Exaggerating and prolonging the treatment with micro-peelings is counterproductive. «They can develop phenomena of dryness and accentuated dryness. They should be used for cycles, therefore for the time recommended by the package, or as suggested by the dermatologist. The break, even for a few days, is used to allow the skin time to regain its stability », concludes the dermatologist.