Microblading, everything you need to know to have perfect eyebrows

Some announce the return of those subtle 90s, others ride the soap effect trend or the bushy ones, the most seen on TikTok: eyebrows, we know, they say a lot about each of us. That’s why regarding the microblading, the technique to sculpt them as they deserve and frame the gaze, we never know enough, so much so that on Instagram the hashtag #microblading boasts almost 22 million results. Not bad if you think that this technique for drawing eyebrows was born only a handful of years ago, but in a short time it swept away the tattoo, until then the most classic of the techniques to draw the eyebrows in a definitive way.

Microblading, let’s clarify everything

The growing demand was followed by an offer of operators that were not always adequately up to par. But to understand what it is about, clarify and above all understand why it is essential to rely on the right hands and find out about the new European regulations in terms of tattoos, we asked the celeb make-up artist and image consultant Rossano De Cesaris for clarification, since 2010 also a microblading artist. Precisely on the subject on March 14 the book by his signature is out Eyebrow microbladingwhich rattles off any information on the subject in depth.

First of all, let’s start from the ABC: what is microblading and why is it called that?
«Basically, the microblading rapppresents a possible variation of the aesthetic tattoo. The etymology of the term perfectly explains why it is called in this one
manner. Code number micro (from the Greek μικρoς) meaning small joins the word Blade which in English means blade. Therefore, it goes without saying that the term microblading alludes to the fact that to create this particular permanent make-up technique a sort of small blades are used, formed by a variable number of needles placed closely together that are made to slide on the epidermal surface generating some drawn from the precise design, which remain defined even after healing ».

What are the new European directives on tattooing and how they affect microblading. Are there any new provisions?
«The latest news in the field of tattooing and micropigmentation have recently arrived, in this case via the Commission Regulation (EU) 2020/2081 of 14 December 2020, Concerning the Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals Contained in Tattoo Inks or Permanent Makeup. For the purposes of greater protection, starting from 4 January 2022 they entered into force in the EU / EEA countries (European Union + European Economic Area), further restrictions regarding the use of over 4000 chemicals contained within the coloring mixtures used for the creation of tattoos and permanent make-up, those components considered potentially dangerous for human health. The main goal is to significantly reduce allergic reactions chronic and inflammatory skin conditions, as well as decreasing more serious consequences, such as tumors, damage to the DNA or to the reproductive system, potentially caused by some particular chemicals used in the inks. Before inoculating coloring preparations, operators in the sector must therefore check that the substances used comply with the restrictions imposed. To guarantee this, the operator is advised to ask the manufacturer / supplier for a “declaration of compliance with the limits set out in Annex XVII of EC Reg. No. 1907/2006, as amended by EU Reg. No. 2081/2020 “. To protect the activity carried out, a copy of the declaration must also be submitted to the attention of the customer, who will sign it ».

What treatments should be done before and after microblading?
“A few weeks before undergoing microblading it is advisable to prepare the skin and improve its general condition through a real beauty path. The aesthetic treatments that lead to the best results are those based on chemical exfoliants (AHA, BHA, PHA, enzymatic), which make the skin smoother, turgid and hydrated, therefore more receptive to permanent make-up. Chemical peels they remove dead cells from the stratum corneum, stimulate cell turnover and the production of dermal components (hyaluronic acid, collagen, elastin) and constant use of the same can also improve blemishes related to sebum or hydration, factors of considerable importance in ‘area of ​​micropigmentation. However, treatments of this type require quite a long time, taking into account that at least 4-6 sessions must be carried out, with a time interval of 15 days between each other. Only two weeks after the last session, you can undergo permanent make-up. In the event that the customer does not have the necessary time, he can resort to mechanical scrubs in microgranules, to be performed once a week during the month prior to treatment. In the months following the micrblading, however, it is essential that the customer continues to take care of their skin. It is possible to undergo all professional aesthetic treatments, as long as it is excluded to carry out chemical and enzymatic peels or abrasive treatments (such as microneedling) on ​​the area of ​​interest, to avoid premature fading of the drawing. Furthermore, it is It is also important to observe careful home skincare, which includes cleansing the face morning and evening, using cleansers
delicate, in addition to the application of moisturizing and / or restorative serums and creams ».

What are the differences between microblading and eyebrow tattooing?
«There is a lot of confusion on this topic, as microblading itself represents a type of (aesthetic) tattoo on the eyebrows. The only real difference between microblading compared to traditional skin micropigmentation methods lies in the fact that a manual tool is used to perform it instead of an electromechanical device (dermograph) “.

How many microblading techniques are there and what are the differences?
«Through microblading you can get both the pile effect and the nuance effect. The first is by far the most natural of those obtainable in the context of eyebrow micropigmentation and is undoubtedly indicated for a client who desires a hardly visible permanent make-up. The gradient effect, on the other hand, indicates a saturation effect on the eyebrows, which can take on greater or lesser intensity, as well as appear more or less rarefied. Instead of taking on a flat and monochromatic aspect like the old 90s tribal, the lower part must be more intense and saturated with color, while the one along the upper perimeter and near the starting point, appear clearly more rarefied and “nebulized”. The pile effect is not recommended for those with very oily, thick, asphyxiated skin or with dilated pores, as it would struggle to take root and where often the definition of the single hair is destined to be lost within a few weeks: it is cases like these that it is better to opt for the gradient effect. Compared to the extreme naturalness of the pile effect, the shaded one is more suitable for a sophisticated client, who sees permanent make-up as something that can replace traditional make-up ».

What’s new?
“There are many variations to be adopted for what concerns the arrangement of the hair, just look at the thousands of posts on Instagram to realize this. However, the styles can be grouped into three broad categories. European style, which contemplates all the hairs having a direction of growth from the bottom up, returned to the fore in the last few seasons, especially after the advent of eyebrow laminations and the affirmation of the trend of “soap brows“Within the make-up trends. The Asian stylecharacterized by having only the
first half of the ascending tract of the eyebrow whose hairs are oriented upwards, while from the second half onwards all the hairs are turned downwards, exactly as is found when observing natural eyebrows in Asian populations. In the end the mixed style, which is undoubtedly what is most popular in the Western world, whose hairs near the starting point have a direction that is sometimes “straight” or slightly inclined towards the outside of the face, then gradually inclines more and more towards the low. In any case, the ideal would be to try to mimic the arrangement of the client’s natural eyebrows as much as possible ».

If you regret or are not satisfied with the result, can you go back?
“First of all, it must be borne in mind that eyebrow microblading is carried out by law using bioabsorbable pigments, which are phagocytosed by the body within a
time frame of maximum 18-24 months. If the customer is not satisfied with the result and does not want to wait for the natural fading of the design, he can use the laser. The latest generation equipment is able to eliminate tattoos and permanent make-up without the risk of post-treatment scar formation. The advantages of the cancellation of tattoos and permanent make-up using current technology are represented by a less invasive treatment, absence of scars and less recovery times ».

In the gallery gels, creams and pencil for sparse eyebrows waiting to make an appointment for the definitive microblading session.

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