Milan Fashion Week kicks off. And the desire is to really get dressed

So where did we stay? This time the Milan Fashion Week really starts again. A big leap back two years, to before we had to deal with what was still a mysterious virus in that February 2020 and would soon become a dramatic pandemic. And the thread of the discourse resumes right there.

This time the Milan fashion week we are able to recognize it, for how we have (very) loved and (some, a little) hated it for so many years. This time there are royal parades, in the most beautiful and unusual locations in the four corners of Milan. Little digital storytelling, almost nothing, only that strictly necessary, one would say. There are presentations, with some scenographic installations, very busy by insiders hungry for pierraggio others. There are parties and there are dinners. Here, few or almost nothing buffets and snacks, however, are put on the record with some disappointment.

There are the journalistsi buyer from all over the world (yes, they have arrived), i curious (many, many who flock to the exit of the fashion shows to snatch a selfie from celebs of which it happens that – we admit it candidly – we don’t always get the name right. There is even the streetstyle: it seemed dead, we said then, and instead the platoon some photographers and the army of very dressed up starlets are there, facing each other on the public square with flash shots. traffic, there are the traffic jams of the rows of black cars. There are the Milanese who trumpet and swear. There is everything that was there before. With a little more excitement.

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And then there is the fashion. There are collections for the next Autumn winter conceived by the great names of Made in Italy and by the flowering shoots of new generation of italic talents. A common thread to identify in this first day of MMD (or MFW, whatever you prefer) which actually began on Tuesday evening with the Capasa Milano show? Difficult to say, especially in a historical moment like this in which the mantra seems to be “everything is valid, everyone free”. Yet, there is a way to synthesize the general atmosphere in its many variations and in its protean manifestation, and it is delightfully out of fashion: there is a desire to dress, but to dress “fully”.

After 2 years in which we have mostly covered ourselves, without too much strategy and without enough ingenuity, here on the catwalks a strong desire for outfits designed, studied, accessorized, rich, complex. Conceive with a thought. Whatever the style, or the mood, or if we want to hazard a word that today seems devoid of meaning, the trend behind it. There is a desire to think about it, about a look. To imagine it and stage it to imagine an entire world.

It happens from Alberta Ferretti, which stages a symphony of grays stolen from the stones, enlivened by points of amethyst violet, emerald green and electric blue, but also of warm camel and timeless black. Incrustations of crystals such as primordial quartz, mirrors, feathers, lace, fluid, liquid, shiny, luminous, soft fabrics to be caressed: the spirit remains romantic, almost fairytale but in an extraordinarily opulent and precious way. And a softly dark thread. However, it manages to remain extremely concrete and real.

It happens from Roberto Horsesin the disturbing and bombastic vision that the creative director Fausto Puglisi gives of the Florentine brand: an unexpected tartan is added to the inevitable animalier in all sauces (read versions), a floral with an ancient flavor, many applications of flowers in 3d leather, but also the opulence of gold and, on the contrary, the simplicity of an ultra-sensual black, between gothic and sadomasochistic-

It also happens from Fendi, where the creative director Kim Jones re-elaborates past collections designed for the label by Karl Lagerfeld (for philologists: Spring / Summer 1986 and Autumn / Winter 2000), amusingly playing with transparencies, overlapping and superimposing transparencies. Exposed lingerie, micro-touches, accessories that you want even before you see them complete the picture. Added value: Bella Hadid who opens the show, a breath of fresh air like that of a wide open window.

And, again, from Dieselwhich returns to the calendar in Milan with a triumph of denim, in its thousand and one possible processes, which is a clear homage to the ’00s so cool today, but also from Calcaterrawith its almost antipodal elegance, very refined, bourgeois and sophisticated without being ashamed or mocked, and still from N ° 21where Alessandro Dell’Acqua gives yet another proof of his always high level talent.

And, in different ways, it happens on the catwalks of the magnificent young people who are rebuilding the fame of Italian fashion by starting to make themselves known in the world with their collections so personal and recognizable, but so different from each other: from Marco Rambaldi (his heterogeneous castings this time also include the rising star Aries) a Of the Corefrom AC9 to Let’s go. That is, the beautiful youth of made in Italy.