Second day of Milan Fashion Week dedicated to collections Spring-summer 2024characterized by a question that hovers in the air from mouth to mouth: but where, where? The question that torments fashion people so much is where Saturday De Sarnonew creative director of Gucci, will show his first collection designed for the Florentine fashion house on Friday, awaited at least as much as the 27th of every month by every good employee. The initial plans – a fashion show in the streets of the central Brera – unfortunately go up in smoke due to the more than adverse weather conditions – rain, rain and more rain – and the suggestive hypothesis must be faced with a plan B: via Mecenate, home of the brand. Less suggestive, but in front of the god Jupiter there is little to do.
But let’s proceed in order and not skip ahead: let’s review what happened – as always in very rigorous chronological order – on this second day of the Milan Fashion Week.
Max Mara
The significance of the notation, in its apparent banality, is paradoxically almost sensational: there are brands that still, stubbornly, take into consideration the comfort of what they send on the catwalk. A category, this, which for many brands seems to be at the bottom, at the bottom, in the scale of priorities, at the moment of construction of a garment. Which for many must be beautiful, sexy, original, intriguing, curious, sophisticated… but never comfortable! This is not the case for Max Mara, in general. And it is even less so on this particular occasion: the collection of the Emilian brand is inspired by English women, coming from the countryside and the city, and from every class and social class, who in the 1940s gathered in Women’s Land Army to work the land and feed the nation. Here then is a parade of garments inspired by what we call today workwear, in very cheerful colours, which seem (oops, they are!) cut and sewn so that you can fit in comfortably, to move effortlessly, so as not to pull this way and that. Garments as the garments of everyday life should be, the real, true one. That of all of us, after Milan Fashion Week.
Prada
The name of Fabio Zambernardi it will say little, or perhaps nothing, to many, to almost everyone who does not deal with fashion. For whom, vice versa, the name and face of this man with the gentle gaze embody – almost like Her Majesty Miuccia Prada – the purest, most original and authentic spirit of the brand which, more than any other, has shaped the newer aesthetics is recognizable in fashion, not only Italian, of the last 30 years. At the end of the fashion show of the brand – as always beautiful, desirable, cultured, original… but what can I tell you, you know what’s new! – together with the Lady and the co-creative director Raf Simons, who has been at his side for 3 years, Zambernardi himself appears, truly by surprise, enjoying the thunderous standing ovation with which the collection was welcomed. After more than 30 years of what can truly (really!) be defined as an honored career, on the threshold of 60 Zambernardi has decided to say goodbye to this very important episode in his life. Maybe fashionable, we don’t know. Mrs. Prada wanted to thank him in this way, in the most dramatic, choral and public way possible. You know what part of Prada Zambernardi was and is, as was the late Manuela Pavesi, her friend, muse and accomplice, who passed away in 2015. She knows that without him the brand would not have been what it still is today And. And this final exit is a beautiful sign of recognition, of gratitude, of esteem. But also a lesson for everyone: sometimes we take a “thank you” for granted, sometimes we consider it superfluous, often we only whisper it through gritted teeth. When instead the great graces deserve a great audience. It’s a big round of applause. It is also a question of elegance.
Emporio Armani
The film made the news Ninotchka, a film that has become legendary. «Garbo laughs!», They all wrote, amazed: in director Ernst Lubitsch’s 1939 cult, the legendary diva gave her camera its smile. A rare commodity also for fashion shows, in Milan and beyond, where for a few decades now, pouting and bad walking seem to be indispensable musts. Giorgio Armani goes (as always, on the other hand) against the trend, and asks all his models to meet the public with an open, fresh, serene smile. What a beautiful gesture, what a beautiful attitude. It’s a shame that the audience remains a little morose, but it seems to be part of the collective ritual. Let’s take it this way.
Side note, worth what it’s worth: we also spotted a visibly tattooed model on the catwalk. I believe (but I am ready to be contradicted) that tattoos have never before had the honor of plying King George’s catwalk. This must also mean something, right?
Moschino
Complete 40 years the brand founded by the never-too-missed Franco Moschino, who passed away in 1994 after only 11 years of existence of his brand, who in such a short time was able to give us such a new, biting, sarcastic and intelligent vision of the world of glamour. To celebrate this anniversary, and in a moment of absence of a creative director at the reins of the brand, the idea is to entrust 4 ultra stylists absolutely among the most successful and well-known in the world – Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, Lucia Liu and Katie Grand – the creation of 10 outfits each, for a total of looks equal to the years of the maison. An interesting experiment, but not entirely convincing: of course, the archives were given one eye (and perhaps even two), but the truth that emerges is that, although complementary and indispensable to each other, the figures of stylist and stylist are decidedly different. And not interchangeable.
Blumarine
Angels sinful, to conclude, on the Blumarine catwalk, in the interpretation of creative director Nicola Brognano. Aesthetics between the Nineties and the early 2000s (the one that works now, so to speak), goddess drapes and PVC to frame the naked beauty, gold and butterflies as thongs: there is lasciviousness in all this, sinful, disturbance. Mariacarla «implasticata» is in any case a noteworthy sight.
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Source: Vanity Fair
I’m Susan Karen, a professional writer and editor at World Stock Market. I specialize in Entertainment news, writing stories that keep readers informed on all the latest developments in the industry. With over five years of experience in creating engaging content and copywriting for various media outlets, I have grown to become an invaluable asset to any team.
