Milan Fashion Week: the first trends, the calls to vote, Angelina Mango and the big absentee

The certainties we have left are not that many, let's face it. But among these there is certainly that of Milan Fashion Week showswhich every mid-February enliven the Lombard metropolis with their crazy and whirlwind carousel of shows and presentations, in the four corners of the city, to reveal to the press and professionals the finds pulled out of the magic cylinder by the stylists for the next autumn-winter.

Here, a carousel that with the air that is blowing – or, rather, that is being breathed, considering the worrying rate of air pollution in the Po Valley – it would be good and right to try to limit as much as possible, perhaps even – let it be said without polemical verve, but let it be said – thanks to a calendar structured in an even more logical and careful way, putting in immediate sequence the fashion shows that take place at least in the same quadrant of the city, without forcing senseless (and polluting, it must be said) mass zigzag movements from one end of Milan to the other.

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But what did we see on the catwalks of first day of this Fashion Week, which has to deal with a certain contraction in the market? What do brands propose to entice consumers to purchase, banishing the feared specter of the crisis from where it is feared that the crisis may appear?

Autumn, indeed

Meanwhile – and it might seem obvious, but believe us, we've seen it all: it's not – the wardrobe on the catwalk is truly autumnal. Gone are the days of slightly bizarre ideas of wanting us to go around in thongs and sandals in November and in a fur coat in August: now the seasons have made sense again, including meteorological ones.

Fendi.

Of the Core.

Of the Core.

Valerio Mezzanotti

Etro.

Etro.

Alberta Ferretti.

Alberta Ferretti.

Even the color palettes are particularly suited to the season: the colors that – at least on this first day of fashion shows – seem to be the most popular are the dark, but warm and intense ones of autumn, from browns to greens, from ocher to burgundy, in all nuance of the forest and undergrowth, up to the grays and blues. In short: there is a certain common sense that we don't mind at all. Surprises are lacking shock effect? Perhaps. But at this moment destabilizing is a gamble, which few can and have the desire to take. Better to indulge, reassure, follow the path of the known and consolidated.

All the stars in the front row at Milan Fashion Week

The Milan fashion shows are not only fashion trends, but also (and above all) the perfect portrait of current society. It is they who trace the contours, the celebrities and personalities from the world ofentertainment who preside over the front row of the fashion shows. Let's discover them together, day by day

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The black

The color that absolutely dominates, however, is black. In all its forms: from Alberta Ferretti's gracefully punk touches toallure decidedly bon ton of N°21, from the romantic but decisive spirit of Antonio Marras, to the unequivocally sexy attitude of Roberto Cavalli. Total black has always been a certainty, a safe haven, a passe-par-tout on which to rely. Now more than ever.

Fendi.

Fendi.

Roberto Cavalli.

Roberto Cavalli.

Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images

No. 21.

No. 21.

Alberta Ferretti.

Alberta Ferretti.

Estrop/Getty Images

A wardrobe to compose as you wish

What really intrigues us and strikes us positively about these very first FW 2024/25 fashion shows is the fact that every wardrobe sent on the catwalk seems willing to be dismembered and recomposed into looks born from an imaginative, wild and concrete mix with garments from other brands. As if the idea was no longer – or was not only – that of focusing on effective, absolute and easily recognizable total looks from head to toe – but on individual garments designed to truly enter the real wardrobes of real women, to take takes part in the game of free association of ideas of everyday dressing. A very bourgeois game – the starting point of this lexicon are the classics of clothing, revised and corrected by each brand with its own spirit and point of view – which, this season, also includes among its new rules that of doing without skirts and trousers, in some ways almost superfluous, in wanting to show off the legs.

No. 21.

No. 21.

Evidence of democracy

A parade for everyone, or almost, that of Diesel. Not only in the three days preceding the show, on the brand's social profiles, it was possible to witness, thanks to 5 fixed cameras, all the most mysterious and top secret phases that precede the actual fashion show – from setting up the location to casting, usually hidden and in this case instead revealed to everyone – but 1000 people were also digitally invited to the same show, who had accredited themselves online in recent days, and whose faces in a live streaming video call were the set for the show,

Diesel.

Diesel.

Victor Boyko/Getty Images

A real appeal to an informed vote, instead, from Marco Rambaldi. The designer, who has always been appreciated for his inclusive casting choices and for his collections capable of truly transcending any kind of barrier and useless definition, is in fact launching an appeal in view of the upcoming elections for the European Parliament: «Believe in inclusion , in equal rights, in love, in nature, in recycling, in beauty, in education, in sustainability, in democracy, in respect, in freedom, in culture. Believe in yourself, use your vote, believe you can make a difference. Use your vote.” A manifesto, born thanks to a collaboration with the European Parliament and Vogue Italiawhich is nothing more than an act of love towards the basic principles of democracy.

Milan Fashion Week the first trends the appeals to vote Angelina Mango and the big absentee

A manifesto which – we imagine, at least – can also be signed by my colleague Sabato De Sarno, creative director of Gucci, a somewhat surprise guest in the front row of Rambaldi: an act of esteem, courtesy, friendship, very similar to that of support that Pierpaolo Piccioli had towards his former “student” De Sarno, on the occasion of his first fashion show at Gucci, in which he participated in the front row.

On Saturday De Sarno guest of Marco Rambaldi's fashion show

De Sarno guest at Marco Rambaldi's fashion show on Saturday (Photo by Pietro S. D'Aprano/Getty Images)

Pietro S. D'Aprano/Getty Images

VIP chapter

Many, many well-known faces of the stars who, more or less convincingly, attended the front rows of the shows applauding warmly. In this sense, the richest parade of the first day was that of Etrowhich also closed the day.

Angelina Mango.  Ipa photo.

Angelina Mango. Ipa photo.

Riccardo GIordano / ipa-agency.net

However, between the new mother Miriam Leone and Gianmarco Saurino, between Eva Herzigova and Bianca Balti, the one most awaited by the photographers and the one most blinded by the flashes was Angelina Mango. The fresh winner of the Sanremo Festival admired the creations of the brand's creative director, Marco De Vincenzo, from the front row, which in many ways followed the ethno/folk/hippie style dressed by the young star on the rise on the Ariston stage.

Chiara Ferragni: the great absentee (to date) of this Milan Fashion Week. Let's review the most beautiful looks of the pastArrow

But, among the many presences that delighted the onlookers crowding at the entrance to the fashion shows, un glaring absence managed to make more noise: that of Chiara Ferragni, who has become a regular on the front row disappeared excellent. For her they are days of playing with the children on the playground. For the moment, at least. That the future, even the nearest one, is all to be discovered.

Source: Vanity Fair

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