Gucci, the first one was good: agreed. But the second one is even better. The most awaited dish on the table of the third day of the Milan Fashion Week dedicated to the collections for the next Autumn-Winter is, certainly, the one served by the now starred chef Saturday De Sarno to the guests of Gucci.
If his first show last September had seemed, to some, a sort of luxurious dress rehearsal in view of what should have been then, at his second test – in many ways more difficult – here the creative director's recipe becomes even tastier and more delicious. With a more subtle and sophisticated aftertaste. The ingredients, essentially, are the same as the debut: beautiful pieces, easy to understand, simple but special, rich but discreet. In a word: elegant, in the most contemporary of meanings.
A wardrobe of garments that to define as basic is perhaps (indeed certainly) inappropriate, but certainly of timeless classics of dressing, which slowly but surely it is widening, expanding, integrating, articulating without becoming unnecessarily complicated, and above all enriching. Of flashes of sequins and beads shimmering, with nuances that make up an increasingly sophisticated palette, with increasingly complex silhouettes. However, the spirit and will behind this approach do not change: that of sending clothes (and accessories, It goes without sayingstarting from the high riding boots, a must of the season for many, and from a completely new bag, the GG Milan, very soft) that perhaps you already have in your wardrobe, but which are so “concrete”, and well made, and clear in their beauty, that you feel like you must necessarily want them. «Seize the extraordinary where the ordinary is taken for granted”, says De Sarno himself, describing his modus operandi. Transforming the ordinary into the extraordinary, we say.
But, taking a step back, the day opened with two eagerly awaited debuts, following the applauded one of Adrian Appiolaza at Moschino.
The first is that of Matteo Tamburini at Tod's, which shows its idea of a woman in the depot of the historic Darsena trams in Milan, fitting it perfectly into the path already traced by the brand in recent years. Which is that of a natural, timeless, informal and relaxed elegance, which finds its creative fulcrum in precious materials, in impeccable craftsmanship and in a luxury that does not want to show off but, on the contrary, to expertly deconstruct itself.
Archive operation, however, from Blumarinewhere he landed the creative direction Walter Chiapponi, who cut his teeth as a designer in the Carpi company for a long time before landing, coincidentally, at Tod's. Chiapponi is struck by nostalgia, perhaps, and by the poignant desire to bring the brand back to what it was in the nineties and early 2000s. He thus draws liberally from all the historical must-haves of the brand, from its non-conformist romanticism which is so connoting, from the iconic pieces which have created the image of a bygone era, sending them onto the catwalk one after the other, in an amarcord without solution of continuity. It's not simply about wanting to be on the safe side, but more about letting yourself be taken over by a visceral and sincere love – I return to love, embroider on the back of some garments – which can perhaps make you less rational and precise, but certainly more sincere.
Big surprises on the honored guests front. From Marni the strange couple formed by makes its appearance Kanye West And Bianca Censors: a very paparazzi epiphany which almost, unfortunately, takes away light and attention from a collection designed by Francesco Risso in a state of grace, an almost abstract synthesis of his idea of fashion, in balance between minimal and excess, between the norm and the infringement. Pure lines, sculpted silhouettes, sculptural volumes and a touch of subtle, ingenious madness.
Photographers gone crazy – how could it be otherwise – from VersaceWhere Fedez he goes to visit his friend Donatella in his first public outing after the much talk that has been made regarding his supposed breakup with Chiara Ferragni. He will have enjoyed this collection with one foot in the punk's shoe and the other in that of the good tone (bon ton which – the fact is evident – many have smugly coaxed this season)? Maybe.
Special mention, however, for the epics Riches and Poors, guests of honor much loved by the public at the Vivetta fashion show. Angela «the brunette» Brambati takes a liking to it and with a brilliant burst of impetuosity from the front row conquers the catwalk parading for the delirious guests. It's a triumph, there's little to say and nothing to do.
Source: Vanity Fair
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