Milano Moda Uomo, a look to the future between concreteness and the desire to escape

The fashion starts up again. Or, at least, he tries. Because, after a minor Pitti Uomo, also for this round of fashion shows by Milan Men’s Fashion – on the catwalk the collections for next Autumn-Winter, the 2022/23 one – things are not going exactly as we hoped. The pandemic returns to scare, the shadow of Covid thickens on the catwalks, and everyone’s enthusiasm and desire to start over, in many cases, find themselves dealing with limitations, fears, prudence.

Someone – Giorgio Armani, both with his first line and with Emporio, but also JW Anderson, who was ready for his Milanese debut – backtracks and, given the situation, prefers to postpone the ritual of the catwalk. But others, in compliance with the most rigorous safety standards, do not give up on the traditional staging of fashion.

Dsquared2, for example, who sends an explorer on the catwalk with an overwhelming desire to travel around the world – but come on, we also have a great desire! – onion dress, with blankets thrown over the shoulders, hyper-equipped backpacks, gaiters to defy the mud and practical Bermuda shorts over joggings. Sequined Bermuda shorts, that things get glamorous or not.

All new masculinity sent to the platform by Fendi, who imagines for the next autumn season a dandy out of the twenties, fascinated by romantic details and perfectly at ease in a skirt finally cleared with no ifs and buts and with a handbag under his arm.

They focus on special effects in flesh and blood Dolce & Gabbana: guest star on the catwalk – musical performance and fashion show, for him – Machine Gun Kelly, while admiring it with heart-shaped eyes from the front row is the future bride Megan Fox, tucked into an ensemble full of laces and lace.

From the creativity of the designer duo, on the platform 100 and passes colorful, futuristic, eccentric outputs, heterogeneous, sometimes exaggerated – in volumes, proportions – and if we want even a little anarchic (here are the references to punk) that definitely meet the taste of a generation, the so-called Gen Z, which has lost a single center of gravity (and this is good) to find a different one from time to time, the right one for each moment. In this, at least in this, there is only to learn.

Parade of stars of yesterday and today (but those of yesterday, in reality, are super today) from Prada, in passerella: Thomas Brodie-Sangster, Asa Butterfield, Jeff Goldblum, Damson Idris, Kyle MacLachlan, Tom Mercier, Jaden Michael, Louis Partridge, Ashton Sanders and Filippo Scotti from It was the hand of God tell the man designed by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons: a collection practice e concrete, but also very strong and powerful. Determined, assertive, essential. No half measures: strong and broad shoulders and feet firmly planted on the ground, in short. As he says the Lady of Italian fashion: «We had an eloquent fashion in mind, garments that had meaning. Clothes capable of making people feel important and that they were, in themselves, important. Not a disposable fashion, but something that had meaning, longevity and relevance. The concept of classic is very important ».

Or, as the Belgian co-creative director: «Diametrically opposed concepts are contrasted: the tailoring of the fundamental garments of the male wardrobe is combined with industrial elements, such as overalls and work clothes. The collection cannot be defined as either tailoring or streetwear, but it mixes both these worlds by questioning themselves ».

A bit bourgeois (there’s nothing wrong with that!), A bit of an adventurer and a bit of a dandy, the man designed by Kean Etro and shown at Bocconi University. A fashion designed for a cultured boy (the invitation, on the other hand, was a volume of the historic Gli Adelphi series, and from the designer’s pocket it makes copolino 101 story zen) who wears a velvet dressing gown with the same ease with which she slips into a sweater and jeans. because you can be this and that, yes.